Urban - Rediscovering the Golden State https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com California Geography Wed, 09 Jul 2025 16:43:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 149360253 Rent Pressure in L.A https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/rent-pressure-in-l-a/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=rent-pressure-in-l-a Wed, 09 Jul 2025 16:43:30 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=5061 Rent and Income Dynamics in Los Angeles: Spatiotemporal Trends, 2000–2022 By: Svetlana Babaeva We’re thrilled to once again showcase the impressive work of a GIS student from Santa Monica...

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Rent and Income Dynamics in Los Angeles: Spatiotemporal Trends, 2000–2022

By: Svetlana Babaeva

Spatiotemporal Rent Trends in Los Angeles (2000 - 2022)

We’re thrilled to once again showcase the impressive work of a GIS student from Santa Monica College! This time, we spotlight the exceptional talents of Svetlana Babaeva, whose dedication and analytical skill shine through in her latest project. Svetlana has taken on one of the most urgent and complex issues facing Californians today: the dramatic and ongoing rise in rent across Los Angeles County. With a sharp geographic lens and a commitment to uncovering meaningful insights, she’s mapped and analyzed this crisis with clarity and purpose. In her own words …

Los Angeles, often seen as a land of opportunity and the embodiment of the “California Dream,” drew me in 2019 with its vibrant cultural energy. However, I soon encountered the city’s harsh reality: a crushing housing crisis that personally affected me and nearly a third of my neighbors who spend over half their income on rent.

Understanding the Housing Crisis Through GIS

After five years of observing this crisis and studying geography at Santa Monica College, I realized my personal struggle was part of a larger issue impacting over 60% of Los Angeles County residents. This led me to create Rent Pressure in Los Angeles, a story map using Geographic Information Systems (GIS) to pinpoint areas most affected by severe rent burdens. My spatial analysis highlighted central and downtown Los Angeles County as particularly vulnerable, prompting questions about the sustainability of living here. This project has significantly deepened my understanding of how geographic thinking and GIS can illuminate and address critical real-world issues beyond just housing. These patterns clearly warrant continued investigation within this area of study.

Acknowledgements

I am incredibly grateful to the Santa Monica College Geography Program for their exceptional guidance. Special thanks to Professor Jing Liu, whose five GIS courses and unwavering support were instrumental in developing this project and my forthcoming Geospatial Technology certificate. I also extend my sincere appreciation to Professor Robert O’Keefe for introducing me to critical geographic thinking, Professor Pete Morris for his insightful, multidisciplinary approach to California geography, and Professor William A. Selby for his inspiring presentations. Their combined contributions have provided an invaluable foundation and continue to inspire my geographic explorations.


Showcase Your Geographic Work on Rediscovering the Golden State: California Geography

Are you passionate about California’s landscapes, communities, or pressing challenges? Have you created maps, visualizations, research projects, or multimedia presentations that explore the geography of the Golden State? If so, we invite you to contribute to Rediscovering the Golden State: California Geography — an online platform dedicated to telling California’s story through a geographic lens.

We’re looking for student and faculty contributions that connect clearly to California — whether you’re examining climate change impacts, housing and rent patterns, water resources, wildfire dynamics, transportation systems, cultural diversity, immigration, or any number of issues shaped by place and space. Submissions can be analytical or creative, visual or written, but they must offer geographic insight into the state’s dynamic human or physical landscapes.

By sharing your work, you not only gain professional exposure but also help inform and inspire others to better understand California — its regions, its people, and the challenges it faces.

If you’re interested in being featured, or have a student whose work deserves a wider audience, we’d love to hear from you! Let’s rediscover the Golden State together, one geographic story at a time.

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Cataclysmic Aftermath Landscapes https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/cataclysmic-aftermath-landscapes/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cataclysmic-aftermath-landscapes Wed, 12 Feb 2025 06:49:43 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4872 Most of you have already seen the inconceivable destruction on local news and social media. After surveying post-fire landscapes from Malibu to Pacific Palisades, and from Eaton Canyon to...

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Most of you have already seen the inconceivable destruction on local news and social media. After surveying post-fire landscapes from Malibu to Pacific Palisades, and from Eaton Canyon to Altadena, I am sharing images that help summarize the extent of devastation just about a month after the conflagrations. The two previous stories on this website summarize conditions that led up to these historic disasters.

There are at least five main themes threading through these images and videos. First, the steep slopes, loose materials, and stripped ground cover leave landscapes vulnerable to any significant precipitation, especially heavy downpours. Such mud and debris flow threats will continue with every rain event until sometime in April, when our normal annual wet season usually ends. Then, there’s always next year. Second, note the haphazard and unpredictable burn patterns that determined which homes, neighborhoods, and businesses were destroyed and which survived the firestorms as they swept through. Third, many of you may have to strain to recognize what is left of some iconic SoCal landscapes and neighborhoods seen and celebrated in countless films, TV series, commercials, and videos over the decades. Fourth, note how the wildfires didn’t discriminate, ravaging diverse neighborhoods from rich to middle- and working-class. Finally, we will end with a few articles that summarizes how we built ourselves into this disaster-prone corner.

Burnt landscapes rise up toward a wisp of fog and high cirrus clouds. One month before January’s calamities, the Franklin Fire raced through Malibu Canyon. As relentless Santa Ana winds blew it toward the coast, it surrounded but spared Pepperdine University (on the left) before reaching PCH.

I am also sharing the following images to confirm that there is no reason to visit the devastation, since you are not likely to discover anything new that hasn’t already been displayed multiple times in the media. And there are at least five reasons (yes, another list!) to NOT go wandering into the Palisades or any other recently burned areas. First, PCH and other roads along that entire coastline and into the Santa Monica Mountains will be subject to closures at least through what remains of our rainy season. Second, even if you find an open road, the one-lane traffic gridlock is a frustrating waste of time. Third, you can’t turn off or even briefly stop without getting cited (at best) or arrested by an army of law enforcement officers. Fourth, these are toxic landscapes that pose a host of health hazards and dangers to visitors. Finally, cleanup and construction crews are working hard to rebuild essential infrastructures throughout Pacific Palisades and Altadena. The last obstacles they need are selfie crowds getting in their way and impeding their progress. So, as you view immediate post-fire images here and in the media, know that there is nothing more to see as the cleanup progresses.

Though the December, 2024 Franklin Fire was fanned out of control by high winds, it burned through landscapes in Malibu Canyon that had been torched just a few years earlier. Could the lack of mature fuels be one reason why it didn’t burn hot enough to incinerate everything down to the ground? Still, foreground and background slopes on each side of Malibu Canyon were singed by the Franklin Fire, leaving them vulnerable to erosion and mass wasting.

The Mountain and Franklin Fires as Warnings

Two months before the mass destruction in LA County, the Mountain Fire erupted in nearby Ventura County. Strong Santa Ana winds (as predicted) also fanned this blaze that consumed nearly 20,000 acres and 243 homes and commercial structures. Just about one month later, the Franklin Fire ignited on Dec 9 and quickly grew to 4,000 acres as powerful Santa Ana winds (again, as predicted) funneled through the Malibu Canyon wind tunnel and toward the beach. In contrast to the Palisades and Eaton fires, it only destroyed or damaged 48 structures, including a few homes. For instance, Pepperdine students and staff were forced to shelter in place as the flames raced around them, but the campus survived. Heroic efforts by savvy firefighters helped to contain the damage, but it also helped that Malibu Canyon had burned just several years earlier. Researchers use the historical record to estimate that this area has burned in wildfires on an average of two times/decade (the entire Malibu coastline is impacted by even more frequent fires), which decreases potential fuel build ups. But such frequent fires also encourage the invasion of nonnative species that are more flammable, leading to even more frequent fires and accelerated wildfire growth. By most Decembers, our fire season has been snuffed out by winter rains. (Rains brought welcome relief months earlier in the previous two years.)  But this year’s long drought dragged, incredibly, into late January, through the middle of our rainy season. The stage was set for relentless Santa Ana winds that would take over from there. As finger pointing mounts about details and specific responses to these wildfires, here are a few facts to keep the debates honest.

Nearly four years ago, I posted a story about The History of a Grain of Sand. You will find it a few pages back on this website. There, you will also find a photo showing this landscape (years between fires) covered with green coastal sage, chaparral, and riparian woodlands. Here’s the copied caption: “Dams as Barriers to Sediment. The Rindge family built the Malibu Rindge Dam in the 1920’s. Its reservoir filled with sediment carried by Malibu Creek within a few decades and it was never fully functional. Malibu Creek might not look like much during the dry season, but it can become a raging torrent with very high sediment loads during winter storms. The sediment trapped behind the dam was destined for Malibu Lagoon and today’s world-famous Malibu Surfrider Beach. Many other beaches along California’s coast have been starved of sand and become more erosional due to such upstream obstructions. This is among several of the state’s obsolete and useless dams that have been targeted for demolition to restore their streams’ ecosystems and allow migrating fish to return and spawn. Enormous costs have slowed such restoration projects.” Now, after the Franklin Fire, we can see how sediment yields from these steep slopes with loose materials will rapidly choke Malibu Creek as they flow down to Malibu Lagoon during rainstorms. Notice how the wildfire blew away from upstream slopes (in the distant left) that are still covered with thick chaparral.
Notice how the burned slopes on the right will be vulnerable to erosion, while the unburned riparian canyon bottom and chaparral slopes in upstream Malibu Canyon (on the left) will gradually absorb and release water, slowing denudational processes.
This satellite image (taken on December 13, 2024) shows the extent of the Franklin (Malibu) burn. Notice the darkened surfaces surrounded by red fire retardant at the very center of the image. Downstream Malibu Lagoon and Surfrider Beach point toward the ocean and away from Malibu Canyon and the fire scar. Pt. Dume is on the far left and Pacific Palisades (not yet burned) stretches beyond the far right. Source: NASA Earth Observatory Landsat Imagery.

Unraveling Some Misconceptions

First, these firestorms had nothing to do with water diversions from Northern Cal. The state had just experienced two consecutive banner wet years that finally broke our two-decades-long megadrought and then competed for the wettest on record. Nearly all of our reservoirs were recently filled and our state water projects overflowed with more water than we could distribute and use. Unfortunately, the several months of recent unprecedented drought that followed those storms dehydrated the biomass that accumulated during the previous two rainy years, providing abundant dry fuels for ignitions. Our state’s water diversion and storage projects were performing well, but were surrounded by dehydrating Mediterranean plant communities interspersed with encroaching human developments, all enduring prolonged and historic Santa Ana winds. Only the details were left to debate in this landscape made for disaster, where millions of Californians found themselves within an expanding wildland-urban interface.

Before the firestorm, multi-million-dollar homes lined Malibu Beach near Topanga. These lifestyles seemed worlds away from working- and middle-class Altadena, but their people and communities would be tragically linked when Santa Ana winds drove separate wildfires of destruction in early January, 2025.

As example, the one relatively small reservoir that served Pacific Palisades had been “taken out of service to “meet safe drinking water regulations,” the DWP said in a statement. A tear in the reservoir’s cover made the water supply subject to contamination, the Los Angeles Times reported, leading the agency to drain it in February.”  … (meaning last Feb.). This left three one-million-gallon tanks to serve the Palisades, which were more than adequate for providing safe drinking and irrigation water and for fighting multiple structure fires. They obviously weren’t enough for fighting the stampeding wave of flames. Many fire hydrants designed to battle structural fires and smaller brush fires were also inadequate for such a colossal bombardment. Such details will be the focus of investigations into how heroic firefighters could have had a better infrastructure to support their efforts as winds peaked over 70mph. Many scientists, engineers, and firefighters question whether ANY water infrastructure could have made much of a difference in this firestorm fanned by wicked winds that also hampered air assaults. This was also the case in the Altadena inferno, where fist-sized burning embers were being blown up to a mile ahead of the fire front. 

We thought that rising sea levels and giant waves would eventually take these upscale houses that were sandwiched between PCH and the surf, as they did in some previous storms (such as in the historic 1982-83 El Niño year). But when seasonal rains went AWOL, nature attacked from the opposite direction in January, 2025. Santa Ana winds drove the flames all the way to the beach, destroying investments, dreams, and stereotyped SoCal lifestyles.

Finally, for those of you not familiar with SoCal, our wildfires that spread into neighborhoods did not (and usually don’t) erupt and spread from a “forest’, but from our coastal sage scrub, chaparral, and related plant communities that help define our Mediterranean climates and ecosystems; so, “forest” management is not relevant. We’ve heard suggestions that our plant communities should be destroyed to protect nearby developments, but that would require clearing at least half-mile strips surrounding every structure. This would represent habitat destruction on a massive scale, accelerate species extinctions in our unique California Floristic Province, and wipe out thousands of natives and endemics. And they would likely be replaced by invasive nonnative grasses and other highly flammable biomass that act as conduits for fires. Proposed “clearance” on such a grand scale would also result in more frequent and catastrophic floods and debris flows out of these disturbed, vulnerable landscapes during nearly every rain event. We’ve seen this movie and its sequels play out too often: the very plant communities that protect us by absorbing floodwaters and stabilizing our slopes, provide habitats for a dizzying array of plant and animal species, and represent open spaces where we can appreciate and study our natural history, can suddenly turn on us by sending their burning embers.

Opulent lifestyles were on exhibit when this home along Malibu Beach near Topanga was selling just a year before the wildfire torched this coastline. Watching the waves crash just below the deck, I asked the real estate agent if he thought buyers would have any trouble finding insurance; he replied as if he didn’t know. Neither of us were thinking about wildfire threats. I now wonder who bought it and how they are coping.

Our careless developments and dysfunctional relationships within these very ecosystems that we cherish have been debated for decades and these difficult debates will (and should) continue into the future. It took many decades to build ourselves into this worst-case scenario fire corner. For more objective analyses and some back-to-reality answers, check out the links that follow my aftermath images, at the end of this story. As you view the following images, please remember that they are what remains of thousands of families’ hard work over many decades … shattered lives, hopes, and dreams incinerated into ashes.

After ravaging the Palisades, the firestorm jumped down this slope and crossed PCH, finally stopping at the Pacific Ocean.  
The Reel Inn was a landmark along PCH where families and friends were reeled in by their catchy puns-of-the-day and tasty fish dinners. This is only one of hundreds of businesses that were destroyed in the Palisades Fire as it raced to the ocean. The chilly fog that was once dreaded by beachgoers was suddenly seen as a friend, drifting in contrast to the high winds and single-digit relative humidity that fanned such destruction.
The blue sign reads Malibu. But don’t go through the cones! Here’s the border where we drive from Pacific Palisades into Malibu. PCH was briefly open to one lane each way before mudslides closed it again. Rows of beach homes that once extended along the shore in the distance have been burned to their foundations. Fire weather is just a memory in the cool, misty fog that hugs the coastline on this day.
Residents in these beachside properties were shocked to watch giant burning embers flying off the coastal slopes and across PCH, igniting one home after the other. The “Santa Ana winds blowing hot from the north” were once celebrated for delivering warm, sunny fall and winter beach days to SoCal as the rest of the country was freezing. Not this time. By contrast, this shroud of fog was a welcome sight.
Residents of this beachside home didn’t have time to save their car or other possessions. Some were lucky to escape.
This car was parked in front of a home that burned into the sea. Their stairway to heaven is all that remains of another beachside retreat.
These chimneys might have been used on foggy days such as this one, when temperatures can drop into the 50s, and beachside residents might complain about how “cold” it gets in the winter.
Can you see those green tubes? California’s Office of Emergency Services warns us not to move them: “Cal OES has tasked the California Conservation Corps (CCC) [workers in white jumpsuits and hardhats marked “CCC”] to place compost silt socks [long green tube-like material] and other protection material like straw wattles [long burlap tubes] and silt fences around residential and public areas including sidewalks or roads. You may also find these materials around storm drains.” The barriers are particularly important here, since the surf is already contaminated with toxins falling and washing in from the burned structures and fire zones, forcing health warnings all the way down to Santa Monica and Venice.
No longer living on the edge. We built as far west as we could go, until the ocean represented the last barrier to development. Imagine climbing these stairs to your third story as you look out across the Pacific Ocean during one of those cherished sunny, warm beach days. Who would believe that the final threat would come as a flaming bombardment from the sky?
These stacked K-rails will soon be lined up along the base of the slopes to keep mud and debris from flowing on to roads and other infrastructure. They work for moderate storms, but they are no match for prolonged heavy rains that can generate powerful mass wasting events.
These were not your grandmother’s mobile homes. This mobile home park along PCH was the last most “affordable” choice along such an exorbitantly expensive coastline. I often wondered what it was like to live there and now I wonder if anyone will ever return, since the Palisades Fire burned it all to the ground.   

Before we skip inland over to Altadena and the Eaton Fire aftermath, here’s just one example of what was lost in the Palisades. Some folks who couldn’t afford to buy a house on the beach opted for a mobile home and also lost everything. This real estate description paints a pretty clear picture of life there in the before times:
16321 PCH
Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates
Roughly $500,000-$1 million
What’s special
BREATHTAKING DRAMATIC OCEAN VIEWS MARBLE BACKSPLASHES CUSTOM CABINETRY EXPANSIVE MASTER SUITE SEPARATE PANTRY ROOM QUARTZ COUNTERTOPS HIGH-END FINISHES
MOVE-IN READY! This stunning, new construction custom-designed, 2-story beach home is perfectly positioned across from the iconic Will Rogers Beach in Pacific Palisades, offering an unmatched combination of luxury, convenience, and coastal beauty. The home’s prime location provides breathtaking, dramatic ocean views from Malibu to Catalina Island, visible upon upper level. Entering, you’ll be enveloped by a bright, open ambiance that seamlessly merges indoor and outdoor living. Natural light floods the home, illuminating the carefully crafted details throughout. With 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, this home boasts soaring 9-foot ceilings and elegant double-door entries that enhance its spacious, airy feel. The first floor offers a convenient bathroom, while upstairs, the expansive master suite awaits with a dual-entry bath alongside a second well-appointed bedroom. Every inch of this home has been thoughtfully curated with high-end finishes, including quartz countertops, marble backsplashes, and custom cabinetry with pull-out shelves in the chef’s kitchen. The kitchen is equipped with premium stainless steel appliances, a Shaw’s farm sink, a gas oven, vented exhaust fan, disposal, refrigerator, dishwasher, separate pantry room, and stackable washer and dryer. Additional features include central heating and a tankless water heater, enhancing both comfort and efficiency. Outside, imagine crafting your ideal outdoor retreat on a spacious 320-square-foot second-story deck, perfect for lounging and entertaining while soaking in the endless ocean views. Dedicated two parking spaces and guest parking available, and 24-hour private security patrol. Residents enjoy access to premium community amenities, including a large heated pool, hot tub, billiards room, and a recreational area. Positioned near Palisades Village and top-rated schools, this home combines luxury with practicality. Cross PCH via a nearby crosswalk for quick beach access, and enjoy low space rent of $970/month with rent control, plus the added financial benefits of no annual property taxes or HOA fees. Purchase includes city and coastal approved plans for custom built deck for convenience.

Eaton Fire (Altadena) Aftermath

Altadena is only about 25 miles (straight line distance) northeast of the Palisades, but most locals would tell you that they seem worlds apart. It can take about an hour (depending on traffic) to navigate from one to the other and you might feel that you’ve been transported hundreds of miles from a beach once you finally arrive in Altadena. Adjacent to Pasadena of Rose Bowl and Parade fame, Altadena is nestled on the edge of the San Gabriel Valley at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains. It looks up to the abrupt steep slopes (once covered by chaparral and woodlands) that tower all the way up to Mt. Wilson, all being lifted along a series of active faults. Cooling sea breezes often struggle to make it this far inland during hot summer days when the smog can get caught below the infamous inversion and jammed against the mountains. By contrast, during winter, this region can resemble a warm, sunny paradise when their spectacular snow-clad mountains point into crystal clear blue skies.

Compared to the Palisades, Altadena displays cultural diversity that is more representative of California. This is partly because the neighborhood known as Altadena Meadows was one of the few communities where black families were allowed to settle, back during the days when segregation was enforced and redlining ruled. Thousands of working- and middle- class families worked hard for decades to improve these neighborhoods, often hoping to pass their investments on to future generations. I learned about Altadena when I frequented Pasadena, enjoyed hikes into the local canyons, and developed a working relationship with the heroes of the Eaton Canyon Docents, led by Diane Lang. There at the renowned Eaton Canyon Natural Area and Nature Center, we trained docents to guide school groups and visitors eager to learn about the natural history of these treasured Mediterranean landscapes. We learned a lot of science while exploring the natural systems and cycles that rule our world and we soothed plenty of nature deficit disorders.

All of it has been lost. Surrounding slopes, the nature center, homes of some of the docents (including Diane’s house), much of Altadena and more of Altadena Meadows has burned to the ground. We always studied and understood how fire plays such an important role in these ecosystems and locals even recalled when another wildfire burst out of the mountains and burned the old nature center in October, 1993. But this fire was different, as it was fanned by the fiercest Santa Ana winds that blew burning embers a mile ahead of the front. Just as the Palisades Fire was destroying everything in its path all the way to the beach 25 miles away, this fire would not stop at the base of the mountains. It was blown ahead right into the city, destroying entire neighborhoods that most people thought were far removed from wildland fires. Within one tragic day and night, Altadena and Pacific Palisades were connected in ways that some could not have imagined. The two previous stories on this website summarized the conditions that led to these tragedies and why they exploded out of control. But perhaps the key word is control. Nature’s awesome power reminds us that we cannot separate ourselves; we are just parts and players within these natural systems and cycles.

Homes above and around Eaton Canyon were haphazardly torched as winds blew wildfire embers across the sky. Entire downwind neighborhoods would be next to experience such terror.
Homes just above Eaton Canyon were lost while the fire stripped surrounding slopes (in the background) down to ground level. It won’t take much rain and runoff to move that material downslope.
It will take a long time and a lot of work just to clear homes and neighborhoods of the toxic debris that was exposed by the fires, but lessons learned from previous calamities are being implemented.
Hundreds of businesses and houses of worship were also victims.
Landscaping and homes were destroyed, leaving the burnt shells of chimneys, trees, and vehicles. Notice how the car is painted with NOT EV, meaning there are no toxic EV batteries there. Also note the barren slopes stripped of vegetation in the background.
An army of cleanup and construction companies are advertising in the fire zones. Even before the conflagration was fully contained, some families were already getting notices from predatory real estate investors and developers asking to buy their properties. Residents will be challenged to restore the character of their burned-out neighborhoods.
This corner home at Altadena and Page was one of thousands destroyed within these neighborhoods. Decades of history and unique architecture were lost in the wildfires.
Those long green barriers (AKA silt socks) are not to be moved, since they are containing toxic runoff that could become problematic during rainstorms.
It’s a disaster landscape with thousands of lone chimneys and collapsed tile roofs.
Paradise was interrupted, replaced with thousands of windows and entryways into burning nightmares.
The Eaton Fire barged right into town, burning businesses and just about everything else in its path. Look carefully to see the skyscrapers in downtown LA sticking up in the background.
Another Altadena entryway to the lost before times.
Classic cars were among the victims here. Imagine all the years of work, love, and care that went up in smoke.
NO EVs on this lot, but this entire section of the Altadena Meadows neighborhood is gone.
Step one is complete here, but recovery efforts will take years and countless more steps.
Looking for before and after scenes? Here’s one example of a local artist who is making a positive difference in Altadena Meadows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYPmFS84SiA
It looks like someone has gathered what remains of potential toxic substances from this burned-out home.
The Eaton Fire burned into Altadena right up to their fire station.
Only the singed fence and a few trees “survived” total destruction on this corner lot in Altadena right across from their fire station.
Preparing for the sediment attack. When the rains come, it is hoped that these catch basins at the base of Eaton Canyon will be sufficient to keep mud and debris flows out of what is left of adjacent Altadena neighborhoods. There’s not much time here as a storm and atmospheric river was forming over the Pacific.
Ready for the next “natural” disaster? Only a month after the fires, residents and officials received sufficient warning from forecasters days ahead: the next drama would come from an atmospheric river that could dislodge loose materials off of the unstable burn scars.

In case you missed it, positive messages and messengers of hope are gradually rising out of the ashes in Altadena. Here’s one example of a local artist who is making a difference in Altadena Meadows. It includes some video from the air: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYPmFS84SiA

This interview confirms how a reality check and building paradigm shift is necessary if we expect to develop more fire-resistant communities. (Thanks to Bill Patzert for sending it along.)

This is a very thorough summary of the corner we have built ourselves into, and our long LA fire history. Thanks again to Bill Patzert for sharing.

Here’s another LA Times article that sums up the problem and some potential solutions.

This Malibu Times article is dated, but leaves us with a rough fire history up to 2007.

If you’re in to geospatial imagery, check out these before and after NASA EARTHDATA images captured in January, 2025, by the MSI instrument aboard ESA’s Sentinel-2A platform.

This camera shows the advancing smoke and flames that eventually consume a Pacific Palisades neighborhood.

This video (it is a long journey) takes you up from PCH through Topanga Canyon in the aftermath to see what burned and what escaped the flames, illustrating why any substantial rain will produce destructive mud and debris flows. It was filmed on January 17th.

Here is a Pacific Palisades Aftermath Tour.

Let’s hope this will be THE END of our disaster stories for a while.

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Making Sense of our Apocalyptic Firestorms https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/making-sense-of-our-apocalyptic-firestorms/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=making-sense-of-our-apocalyptic-firestorms https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/making-sense-of-our-apocalyptic-firestorms/#comments Sat, 11 Jan 2025 10:34:03 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4779 This week represents the line between the “before times” and “after times” In Los Angeles County and perhaps California. It is not hyperbole; it’s the new reality. Southern California...

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This week represents the line between the “before times” and “after times” In Los Angeles County and perhaps California. It is not hyperbole; it’s the new reality. Southern California will never be the same. And everyone finally understands that, no matter where or who you are, no person or community is immune to the ravages of nature’s awesome power when we create such imbalance. I’ve been posting stories and writing books about these realities for years. You will find them on this website and peppered throughout my California Sky Watcher book. As of this writing, we count more than 57,000 acres burned, at least 29 deaths (with more human remains still being discovered), more than 16,000 homes, businesses, and schools destroyed, and at least $250 billion in damages and recovery costs. After nearly 200,000 people were evacuated and far more lost power, entire neighborhoods and business districts were wiped out, and some of California’s most cherished natural and human landscapes have burned beyond recognition in just a few days. You can go to your TV and social media to get the dramatic, heartbreaking, and often gory details; this time, the sensationalists don’t have to exaggerate.

Here is a deeper story that explains how this happened, but more importantly, why it’s happening now. I will guide you through the play-by-play, always emphasizing the science behind the scenes, so you can see that this catastrophe is not past tense, no matter how much later you are reading about it. To set the stage, make sure you wander through our previous website story about precipitation extremes to understand how we got here.

This spectacular roll cloud was photographed from New York Drive at Eaton Canyon Wash in Pasadena looking west on January 7, 2025, 7:30am. It is an example of a rotor cloud that formed on the lee side (downwind) of the mountains. High velocity stable air was forced up the opposite sides of the mountains until it reached the top. There, the relatively heavy air was liberated to tumble down this leeward side (from right to left, since it’s an offshore Santa Ana wind) past its equilibrium so that it had to rise up again as it races toward the coast, meandering up and down roller coaster style within repeating mountain waves. But a vertical circulation has formed on this leeward side. Stationary clouds condense on the top section of the rotor where air cools as it rises. Such clouds signal turbulent air and this one is an ominous precursor to the windstorm that will fan a deadly and catastrophic wildfire across Altadena and Pasadena later in the day. Photo by Matt Wright. UPDATE: Here is Matt’s message he sent with this photo: “It’s pretty violent up here right now. Top gust so far is 50 mph, but steady winds are around 30, with gusts in the low 40s. We’re all fine, but packed and ready to bug out in case of fire in the hills above us.” Sadly, their house was one of the first to burn in the deadly Eaton Fire. 

Two years of heavy rains + a record nine months of drought + epic windstorms + low humidity all along the wildland-urban interface = …

It started with two years of record rainfall (competing for the most rain ever recorded in the Los Angeles area during two consecutive years), which finally broke our more than two-decades-old megadrought. Rehydrated plant communities flourished. Ecosystems added tons of biomass. Grasslands, coastal sage scrub, chaparral, oak woodlands, riparian woodlands, and every other plant community joined the party. As usual, the rain stopped last spring to make way for summer’s drought, starving our Mediterranean ecosystems of water. Through the autumn months, as water content in our plants dwindled each day, the annual race was on to see which would come first: Santa Ana winds or the first rains. Substantial early rains typically douse the fire season until next year. But, as I mentioned in the previous story on this website, the storms didn’t even show up for this year’s competition. SoCal’s widespread rainfall totals since spring remained near or below ¼ inch by mid-January, the middle of our rainy season. (As example, LA Airport had recorded only 0.04 inches and Santa Monica was at 0.09 inches for the water year well into mid-January, making this compete for the driest stretch on record for the region.)

Viewing from near Mt. Hollywood in Griffith Park, look for the ripe red toyon (Christmas) berries in the middle foreground. They tell you that it’s December. But after two heavy rain years, this season started with no rain, leaving the fuels on these slopes dry and primed for ignitions. Those high and middle clouds are drifting from a storm to the north that will never get here. The same resilient high pressure that is compressing the inversion layer (note the haze and smog trapped against the mountains) is blocking potential storms. In a few weeks, these dehydrated Hollywood Hills and the distant San Gabriel Mountain slopes will erupt in flames.
A mix of high clouds above LA’s Griffith Park Observatory in December and January often signal an incoming storm. Not this year. They disappointed us day after day into January.

Next, add autumn’s dry winds. By mid-November, previous gentle offshore breezes occasionally turned to classic Santa Ana winds and red flag warnings, finally sweeping shallow marine layers out to sea. Relative humidity tanked. The Mountain Fire in Camarillo scorched more than 20,000 acres, 200 structures (including homes), and destroyed millions of dollars of agricultural products in early November. By December 9, it still hadn’t rained, encouraging the Franklin Fire to terrorize Malibu all the way to PCH during another gusty Santa Ana wind event. Sadly, these were just dress rehearsals for the big shows.

On January 1, it looked like winter in Eaton Canyon at the base of the San Gabriels. Sycamore trees had changed color, pretending to live in a colder climate. But there should be more water here this time of year. Note the dehydrated soils and vegetation more common to September or October. This is a really bad sign. Just one week later, a devastating wildfire raged off these slopes, destroying everything in its path, including Eaton Canyon’s beloved nature center.

As January progressed, offshore wind episodes became more threatening as the great drying trend expanded across the entire state. By early January, the National Weather Service was warning of dangerous, life-threatening (and possibly historic) Santa Ana winds that would barrel into Southern California on Tuesday, the 7th. Unfortunately, the forecasters nailed it. By Tuesday afternoon, the winds were howling until it seemed as if helicopters were hovering above our homes all night. I’ve written about these devil winds before on this website and in my book and I’ve experienced and researched scores of them over decades, but this was different.

Forecasters at the National Weather Service began warning us days ahead of time that this would be a game-changing Santa Ana wind.

We were caught in a wide, massive atmospheric wind tunnel midway between a low-pressure system dropping to our southeast and a strong high-pressure system trying to assert itself to our west. Upper- and lower-level support grew into an historic pressure gradient that forced cool, stable air masses toward the coast, where they would be warmed by compression. But there was another problem: the mountains were in the way. As the heavy air parcels were pushed up the opposite sides of the mountains, they eventually made it to the top, where they were free to cascade down the coastal slopes toward the ocean to become leeward waves. Widespread gusts were clocked at over 70 mph; a few made it over 90 mph. Meandering mountain waves, chaotic eddies, and violent rotary currents formed downwind of the mountains, spreading over developments, infrastructure, and millions of residents on the coastal plain. Though the powerful winds blew from the continent, wind directions would temporarily jerk one way and then the other without warning as the powerful eddies circulated by. Giant trees and power poles were toppled as power outages swept across Southern California. The big show began to resemble a terrifying scene in a science fiction movie, except you couldn’t write a script that could better prime a landscape for the ignitions that would follow.

Look carefully to see some of the visitors who will enjoy hiking Eaton Canyon for the last time before the big wildfire. There was abundant water here last year at this time, but the stream remains dry into early January, 2025. The canyon last burned more than 30 years earlier, reminding us how these plant communities have adapted to fire. Just as we mourn the unfathomable human losses of the Eaton Fire, we can’t forget how these natural landscapes play such important roles in our physical and mental health.

My chronological photo essay below illustrates how a wildfire can quickly explode into a deadly monster, consuming everything in its path until it meets the ocean. This was the case as our beloved Pacific Palisades natural and human landscapes were destroyed within a few hours this week. Given the conditions I’ve just described, it should also be no surprise that another conflagration would race out of the foothills below the San Gabriel Mountains on the same day. The death and destruction barged into Altadena and Pasadena neighborhoods that seemed far removed from the dangers of what we might consider a wildland-urban interface. (The extend of such imaginary boundaries is being reevaluated.) The greatest surprise may be how heroic firefighters were finally able to stop such an out-of-control train inferno before it did even more damage.  

I’ve experienced and written about too many of these disasters over the years. The ominous red sky, the choking smoke, curious ashes fluttering down to resemble delicate snowflakes, butterfly wings, and rose petals: you may have read about them here or in my book. But I’m one of the lucky ones—so far—as these heartbreaking catastrophes become more common. Admit it or not, we all know what’s going on here. Our relationship with nature has gone seriously awry. We’re testing her and she’s winning and she always will. We’ve got to find better ways to increase our natural history and science literacy and reconnect to the real world or we’re all toast. Without such a paradigm shift, we will continue to feel the potential of the California Dream, and all that we love about our Golden State, slip away. And if you think you can simply escape to other states or countries with greener pastures, take a closer look at the chaos and dysfunction beyond our borders. Maybe if you stick around, you can play your role in righting our ship.

UCLA’s Park Williams and other researchers have teamed up to learn how much of these severe events might be connected to the bigger climate change puzzle. Click here for their most recent article.

Here’s another perspective (slightly compressed) from renowned climatologist Bill Patzert:
“…decades of ‘criminal’ zoning, totally irresponsible building codes, inadequate water storage to deal with fire apocalypses and not dealing with a power delivery system that ignites fires year after year, are the major culprits.” 
Patzert also emphasizes that “global warming is the greatest existential threat to the environment and our civilization, but what we are living through now is human carelessness and ignoring the natural climate forces of Southern California.” But his interview with the LA Times sums up this year: “During my career, I’ve never seen punishing Santa Ana events so overwhelm the normal winter rainy season.”

Regardless, here is where my sign-offs are getting a bit repetitive: keep your seatbelts fastened.

And now follow me as we watch the peculiar behavior of the horrific wildfire that terrorized the Pacific Palisades and changed our world.

From Santa Monica, we could see that a small fire had erupted on a remote ridgetop upwind of Pacific Palisades before 11 am.
The wildfire exploded and grew by the minute. The good news? To invade into Palisades neighborhoods (on the left), it would have to advance downslope, and fires usually burn much faster uphill.
The bad news? It didn’t have to spread downhill. The Santa Ana wind was so strong, it carried and deposited burning embers up to a mile, starting several new spot fires far ahead of the original blaze.
The blaze made noticeable progress within minutes, but responders were prepared. The air battle had already started.
Within an hour, emergency messages were blaring out of our phones and people were gathering to watch the battle. But it quickly became clear that the wind and the wildfire were winning.
Super scooper pilots braved what seemed to be dangerous winds and insurmountable odds. Sirens screamed in the distance as fire crews raced toward the growing inferno. By this time, the accelerating winds were blowing smoke plumes miles out into the Pacific.
We could sense that this fire wouldn’t stop until it reached the ocean after burning through densely populated neighborhoods in its path.
In desperation, fire crews had to focus on threatened neighborhoods while other flanks of the fire quickly spread out into the dry fuel. Some of these plant communities hadn’t burned in more than 40 years.
Watch the super scooper in the distance as it skims over the ocean below the smoke plume, gathering tons of water to be dropped on the advancing flames.
By about 3 pm Pacific Standard Time, Santa Ana winds had already blown the Palisades Fire smoke plume past the Channel Islands (lower center of this image), less than 5 hours after it started. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

If you want to experience the drama of escaping the Palisades firestorm and rushing to evacuate, check out Tracy’s series of photos and videos arranged in chronological order as escapees eventually make it down to PCH. The last images show an heroic officer using their hose to douse spot fires started by embers landing in their yard. Note how such a fire can advance with its burning embers through the sky faster than on the ground. (Please appreciate that these images are personal, raw, and unedited.)

Here is a time-lapse video showing the start of the Palisades Fire from another angle from 10:45am – 2:48pm. Thanks to NPS Ranger Susan Teele for sharing.

The advancing fire can be seen here from Santa Monica. Notice how Santa Ana winds are pushing the smoke plume and palm trees toward the ocean. Flames became visible from vantage points across the city.
The Big Blue Bus shows how life goes on during this unimaginable first afternoon of fire. While Pacific Palisades neighborhoods were already being scorched, flanks of the fire would gradually expand until more densely packed urban neighborhoods were threatened. This is the flank that eventually spread several miles east (away from the coast!) into the Brentwood Hills, Mandeville Canyon, over toward the San Fernando Valley, and nearly to the 405 Freeway.
Meanwhile, back at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains around Altadena, during late morning and that same fateful January 7 windstorm … Looking up toward the ridge, a roll of clouds condenses in ascending air and then evaporates in the descending air on the opposite side of the developing wave. That low pressure system dropping into northern Mexico (see weather maps below) was circulating just enough wraparound moisture to make it up to SoCal’s mountain ranges, but not enough to slow the terrifying wildfire that would erupt on these slopes later in the day. Photo by Matt Wright.   




By that evening of January 7, fierce winds fanned sparks generated from near a homeless camp located below high-power lines (both common sources of wildfire ignitions) that spawned the Eaton Fire at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains. The blaze exploded and barreled down the slopes of Eaton Canyon. Blown by powerful winds, the inferno quickly raced into adjacent neighborhoods, destroying more than 9,000 homes, schools, businesses, and houses of worship. At least 17 people didn’t make it out in time. Photo by Matt Wright, just before their home was consumed.

This time-lapse video shows a Mt. Wilson view of the Eaton Fire from January 7-8. Another thanks to NPS Ranger Susan Teele for sharing.

Back in Santa Monica … Offshore winds became so strong during the first two days of fire, they sheared off any smoke clouds that tried to billow higher. Notice (behind Santa Monica Pier) the turbulent eddies and swirls caused by friction and extreme turbulence flowing off of the mountains and out over the ocean. Those lighter high cirrus clouds are not associated with the fire and smoke.
This 500mb map from January 8 illustrates how strong upper-level support helped to generate such powerful winds. Note the tight pressure gradient that has formed over Southern California between high pressure pushing in from the Pacific and deep low pressure that dropped into northern Mexico. Source: NOAA Weather Prediction Center.
Surface map from January 8. A steep surface pressure gradient has also formed over Southern California between strong high pressure to our northeast and deep low pressure to our south, steering damaging winds to flow from the northeast and over us. Source: NOAA Weather Prediction Center.
By the second and third days, unthinkable damage had been done in the Palisades as an eerie sickening veil of smoke settled over the area. Locations downwind continued to be threatened by burning embers. Slight changes in wind directions could have spelled disaster for any one of these neighborhoods.
By the second day, smoke plumes from the Palisades and Eaton Fires (light brown streaks) were swirling in giant eddies hundreds of miles over the Pacific under the strong high pressure that helped generate those powerful winds. More definitive lighter clouds (not related to the fires) and Sierra Nevada snowpacks are also visible. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
By day two, crowd control took over and evacuation zones advanced.
Strong Santa Ana winds challenged palm trees up on Palisades Park to stay anchored so they didn’t fly off to the beach. We are looking toward the fires and choking smoke.    
Some of the palms became victims of the vicious windstorm.
Trees and power lines fell across the Southland, blocking roads, while locals talked of winds they have never imagined.
The soil wasn’t even wet. How old do you think this tree was before it became another victim of this historic windstorm?
Residents, workers, and business owners in some of LA’s most iconic districts (such as the Brentwood Village) kept nervous eyes on the advancing blaze and smoke as mandatory evacuations expanded all the way up to San Vicente Blvd. They got lucky this time around, but few ever thought that such danger could visit them here.
Though winds finally began to subside, cautionary Red Flag Warnings extended through the week.  
By Thursday (day three), the Palisades and Eaton Fire smoke plumes were easy to spot on satellite imagery as they spread out over the Channel Islands and beyond. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
As if we hadn’t had enough, this Santa Ana wind and fire story was far from over when the National Weather Service issued these warnings for January 11-15. Rain dance anyone?
SoCal, we have a problem. Because data for this map starts on October 1 (our official water year), it doesn’t even show how this exceptionally dry period followed our summer dry season (since spring), which was also dryer and hotter than average. We’re now in our 9th straight month of prolonged dryness. Northern Cal already benefited from a very wet start to their rainy season (see our previous story on this website), so no drought problems—yet—there. Source: Weather West.

Notice how above-average precipitation quickly dwindles to far below average for this season as we move from Northern California to Southern California weather stations: https://ggweather.com/seasonal_rain.htm

When do California’s playgrounds become forbidden land? Storied Pacific Coast Highway toward Malibu was closed to everyone except emergency vehicles. Fortified National Guard barriers helped to seal the evacuation zones. This is at the famed California Incline.    
It’s only 5 days after the cataclysm broke out, but most of the Palisades Fire has been reduced to a smolder. Compare this to the earlier view toward Santa Monica Pier (as the fire raged). Here, a welcome breeze out of the southeast pushed the smoke away, yielding relatively clear, blue skies. But the surfers who were riding gentle waves appear as absurdities when you look closely at hillslopes in the background. The formerly dark and light greenish-gray coastal sage, chaparral, and human settlements built in between have been charred into burnt remnants of the before times, all the way from Malibu to Mandeville.
Over many years, I’ve seen these signs erupt in too many communities in nearly every region across the western US. Few would have ever guessed this could happen along Santa Monica’s posh Montana Avenue shopping district, as it was precariously positioned on the evacuation boundary zone. Let’s hope this show is not coming to a community near you.      

This NY Times article supports Bill Patzert’s earlier comments.

Check out this NY Times Article: Researchers show how Santa Ana wind speed is the main variable that makes SoCal fires more destructive.

This research is from the International Journal of Wildland Fire: Climate and weather drivers in southern California Santa Ana Wind and non-Santa Wind fires

Santa Ana wind history and trends.

THE END??? All the stories on this website and in my California Sky Watcher book confirm what we’ve learned from experience: nature’s cycles never “end” and we’re just a part of them. Should it finally start raining in SoCal, the next chapters will likely feature catastrophic mud and debris flows that always follow these fires after they have stripped the covers off our hillsides. Stay tuned!

The Unimaginable Epilogue

Dominant upper-level high-pressure systems settled over the entire West Coast and generated exceptionally dry on-and-off offshore wind events across California for more than two weeks after the worst wildfires started. In Southern California, powerful Santa Ana winds howled through January 23, fanning numerous new fires just as crews tried to mop up some of the most destructive wildfires in California history. Relative humidity dropped into single digits throughout SoCal. But finally, for the first time since spring, weather forecasters were tracking a low-pressure system capable of delivering precipitation that promised to be the final blow to the fires by January 26. This little system wouldn’t direct any atmospheric rivers over the fire scars. We will have to wait to see if those will arrive during our other normally wet months of February and March. To learn more about the science and power of atmospheric rivers, you might check out my story about ARs on this website or read my feature article in the current edition of Weatherwise Magazine.          

This 500mb map from January 22 shows the high-amplitude upper-level waves responsible for record-breaking January weather across the US. This resilient pattern remained stuck in place for several days. Following the pressure heights, you can see winds curving up and over that elongated high that dominated over the West Coast. The cold air then dropped down on the east side of the high and into the Great Basin, further enhancing strong offshore pressure gradients over Southern California. (Such exceptionally cold air masses also help explain why so many of this season’s Santa Ana winds felt “cool” even after the compressional heating.) Now follow those upper-level winds as they blast out of northern Canada and dip into the deep trough directly into the Midwest and southern states, carrying snow and a memorable deep freeze all the way down to the Gulf Coast. We can see how California’s record dry fire weather and the arctic blasts to our east were connected, all powered by these upper-level pressure patterns. Source: NOAA Weather Prediction Center.
Strong high pressure keeps the entire West Coast mostly clear on January 23, 2025. It was just another day in the series of dry, gusty offshore wind events that dominated through most of the month. The winds blow two large smoke plumes into the Pacific from the latest wildfires in northern Baja California. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

Here are three videos shared by Karin from the Topanga Canyon Docents:

Topanga resident Elena Roche made a number of videos during the fire. You can see more on her YouTube site. Here, active fires were blocked just before they could burn through the community of Topanga and parts of Trippet Ranch. By this time, the fire fronts were spreading several miles around after ravaging the Pacific Palisades.

This video takes you up from PCH through Topanga Canyon in the aftermath to see what burned and what escaped the flames, and why any substantial rain will produce destructive mud and debris flows. It was filmed on January 17th.

Here are personal stories from the Topanga New Times published just before the first rain finally came.

The documentary Dry Times, made by Anurag Kumar and Alex Gregory, has, unfortunately, become more relevant as it captured California’s recurring predicaments during the megadrought that spanned more than two decades: Given recent events, this has become a haunting trailer. The Movie

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Simpler Solar Solutions https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/simpler-solar-solutions/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=simpler-solar-solutions Thu, 15 Aug 2024 01:11:45 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4568 Advancing technologies have drastically boosted efficiency and cut costs over the years to make solar energy far more affordable, practical, and irresistible across the Golden State. But our developments...

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Advancing technologies have drastically boosted efficiency and cut costs over the years to make solar energy far more affordable, practical, and irresistible across the Golden State. But our developments and investments in giant, cutting-edge solar “farms” that harvest, concentrate, and then distribute energy to millions of distant users has unintended consequences. These developments have encouraged Californians to rediscover how so many of their energy solutions can be found right in their own homes, businesses, and backyards. Billions of energy dollars, tons of natural resources, the health of our communities, and huge expanses of our public lands are at stake.

California was a leader in fossil fuel extraction and use during the 20th Century. This landscape near Lost Hills just above the San Joaquin Valley reminds us that all of our energy sources have their impacts. And even here, we are using indirect solar energy in the form of ancient plants and other biomass that once flourished in sunlight. The energy was trapped and cooked into an underground stew for millions of years until we brought it back up to fuel our engines and industries.       

The development and use of affordable renewable energy and our increasingly more efficient use of resources is keeping tons of pollution out of our air, water, and soil, while saving Californians billions of dollars in the long run. Millions of people and entire ecosystems are healthier as California helps to lead the nation and the world toward a cleaner and more promising energy future. As the state’s per capita energy use and greenhouse gas production continues to decline, individuals, households, and businesses have discovered a treasure trove of long-term savings that can be routed to improve the quality of our living and working environments. But since the devil is often in the details, what are these sources of energy and how reliable are they?   

As we race through the 21st Century, each of these economic sectors contribute to California’s enormous but decreasing greenhouse gas emissions. How will future diagrams change as we continue to improve our efficiency? Source: California Air Resources Board.  

The Golden State is progressing toward a challenging goal of 100% “clean” electricity by 2045. But it is important to note that, by 2022, such “clean” sources (according to the California Energy Commission) included all renewables (39+%), large hydropower (≈11%), and what remains of nuclear (≈11%) in the state. Solar, wind, geothermal, biomass, and small hydropower are considered renewables. But there’s something missing here that I’ll call small solar power (often referred to as passive), though it isn’t small at all, since it’s working for us everywhere on every day and it is the source of almost all the energy that surrounds us. 

Californians are responding to gradually warming temperatures by using less energy to warm their spaces and more energy to cool them as we progress through the 21st Century. And most folks continue to discover that most reliable waste-not, want-not source of energy: efficiency.
As temperatures gradually warm, people in all California regions continue to use less energy to heat and more energy to cool their spaces over time.

The energy industry often divides active solar into two categories: solar thermal and solar photovoltaic. The larger projects have generated tons of controversy. For instance, the Ivanpah solar thermal facility, with a price tag of more than $2 billion, was touted as the world’s largest. You can’t miss it if you are driving through the Mojave Desert along Interstate 15 just before crossing into Nevada. This is where once wild open desert has been covered with giant mirrors to focus intense sunlight toward 450-foot towers where high temperature steam turbines generate electricity. The electricity is sold to you through companies such as PG&E and SCE, but millions of dollars of electricity are lost through wires transmitting it to distant urban centers. Meanwhile, the desert along Interstate 10 to Arizona is being covered with photovoltaic panels on BLM land that is now known as The Riverside East Solar Energy Zone. This includes the sprawling Chuckwalla Valley, which has become a sea of solar panels that has also been advertised as the largest such project in the world. In both of these gargantuan solar energy “farms”, enormous expanses of open public desert ecosystems have been sacrificed to gather and concentrate solar energy and convert it to electricity that then must be sent out to urban areas more than 100 miles distant.  

The massive Ivanpah solar thermal facility is located near Interstate 15 and the Nevada Border. From a distance, the solar panels resemble a giant lake. 

As with other major power plants, these solar “farms” come with plenty of baggage. Habitat destruction haunts each project. Thousands of birds and other wildlife have been unintentionally killed each year by these behemoth projects. Precious groundwater supplies have been threatened. Desert dwellers and cultures that include Native Americans have also been impacted.

The Ivanpah solar facility has covered a big chunk of this desert. Impacted wildlife incudes unfortunate birds that are zapped by the intense concentrated heat directed toward the towers. 

Desert devotees wonder why more solar panels are not being installed on top of existing warehouses, parking structures, homes, and businesses, in urban areas where the energy is being used. Even when the cost of storage batteries is added to solar installations, the payoff time is often less than 10-15 years, when consumers begin getting their solar energy for free for the life of panels that can last more than 30 years. And when homes or businesses with existing solar systems are sold, the seller gets more than their investments back from the added sales prices. Those who don’t want to pay upfront costs and take responsibility for owning and maintaining their solar systems are enticed by lucrative leasing arrangements; customers benefit from less expensive energy after paying a monthly fee to the companies who own and lease out the systems. Millions of rooftops and other urban spaces (including those for vital battery storage) are still waiting to harvest and store otherwise wasted and increasingly competitive solar energy for the taking. So why aren’t more families and businesses being encouraged to make such smart investments in otherwise underused urban spaces that can guarantee long-term profits?

Plenty of energy is being used to support economic activities in this industrial landscape that is home to LA’s rail yards. Long ago, the Los Angeles River was “tamed” and channeled around downtown, encouraging industries to locate right along the river. And now, you can see why some might imagine this to be an ideal setting to harvest solar energy that can be used locally.     

You can see why the chorus of concerned citizens and energy experts advocating for more efficient, local energy production is growing louder. They argue that many of the most competitive sources of future energy can be found on our roofs and in our cities where energy is used and that destroying distant public lands and ecosystems is not sustainable. They also argue that local energy issues and problems can be more efficiently addressed with local solutions that help consumers gain control of their power sources. Similar controversies have swirled around some of the ubiquitous wind turbines that have sprouted above rural and remote regions across the state. I address some of these issues in my new book, The California Sky Watcher.   

Health clubs, restaurants, and other businesses discovered the advantages of free natural light and clean, fresh air during and immediately following the COVID pandemic. These healthy open-air environments attracted patrons who were fearful of catching the virus in closed spaces. What did we learn from these back-to-nature business and energy savers that moved outdoors to take advantage of California’s mild climates?

And that leads us to the simpler and more pragmatic sustainable energy solutions sometimes known as passive solar. They often involve common-sense and time-tested planning with nature in practical ways that will allow us to save money, gain control of our energy destiny, and improve the quality of our living and working environments. Such solutions have been under our noses and calling out to us all this time.  

You will find this Living Roof at the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. Plants, solar panels, and skylights compete for space up here. From the Academy: “The Living Roof provides excellent insulation (reducing energy needs for heating and cooling), captures 100% of excess storm water (preventing runoff from carrying pollutants into the ecosystem), and transforms carbon dioxide into oxygen—just for starters.”

Many of us have already discovered the advantages of greenhouses, skylights, sunroofs, and sunrooms that allow natural sunlight in, rather than relying on artificial energy-consuming light and heat sources. And this reminds us that almost all the energy surrounding us is direct or indirect solar. It’s the energy plants use to grow and that animals store as they eat. Whether you are a vegetarian or an omnivore, you are using indirect solar energy to read this page and walk across the room. As covered in stories from my new book and on this website, solar energy creates temperature gradients that build pressure gradients that propel the wind. The sun’s energy evaporates water and lifts moisture into the air to fuel storms that provide life-giving precipitation. There it is, always surrounding us. Because there’s far more solar energy than we will ever need, we need to continue to find more efficient ways of harvesting, storing, and using it.

From the California Academy of Sciences: “Edged by solar panels, the roof’s seven hills are lined with 50,000 porous, biodegradable vegetation trays made from tree sap and coconut husks. An estimated 1.7 million plants fill the trays, their roots interlocking to create an extraordinary oasis for birds, insects, people, and other creatures.”

The simplest acts include opening windows during the day and closing them before sunset during the cool season. During warm summers, keep them open at night through early mornings and then close them when daytime temperatures rise outside. You will keep fresher, healthier air circulating during the comfortable open times and prevent sick building syndromes that can develop in closed spaces. Investments in efficient ventilation systems also cut AC costs in the long run. Plant deciduous vegetation along south-facing walls to shade the hot side of the house during summer; they will lose their leaves to allow more light in during winter. Follow the source of light and heat by keeping track of the sun’s location in your sky as it changes during the day and the seasons. Eaves and overhangs can be just the right length to shade walls and windows from high summer sun during summer afternoons and then allow direct sunlight to warm those surfaces when sun angles are lower during winter. Think of the dozens of other ways you can reconnect to the natural world in and around your own living and working spaces, relieve nature deficit disorders, reap the physical and mental health benefits, and save money in the process. After all, we are fortunate to live in plein air California, not Chicago.

This diagram was intended to show noon sun angles in New York, but it also works fine for northern California, which is at the same latitude. Notice the 47-degree difference in sun angles between the winter and summer solstices. Seasonal differences are the same in southern California, though sun angles are a bit higher.  
From the California Academy of Sciences: “Our living roof is more than beautiful—it’s the heart of the Academy. Weather stations on the roof monitor wind, rain, and changes in temperature to help inform the building’s automated systems and skylights, keeping rainforest temps just right, the interior piazza cool and comfortable, and natural light streaming to the exhibits below.

The best California architects know how to design smart buildings with more sophisticated passive solar features. It might take a little more planning ahead, but such short-term investments will lead to long-term rewards that just keep on giving. Double-paned energy-efficient windows (with Energy Star ratings) and doors and improved insulation have become the standard for good reasons: these upgrades cut energy costs as they allow you to better regulate the air in your home or business when temperatures become uncomfortable outside.  Here is just one website from the U.S. Department of Energy that summarizes passive solar strategies. Here is another good introduction. You can also encourage efforts to become more efficient by supporting nonprofit organizations such as Sustainable Works. They have helped thousands of students, residents, and businesses save money while they also cut pollution and save our valuable resources.

When you visit the Academy’s rooftop, you will find informative signage telling green roofs stories. This cutting-edge demonstration roof is far more sophisticated and advanced that what most architects with limited resources can design, but it serves as a good example of how much we have learned and how far we have progressed.   
Such simple passive solar diagrams (this one credited to Sheer Hamam) are floating around popular websites such as Wikipedia.  
This passive solar diagram (displayed on Wikimedia Commons) includes some more detail. 

We all use energy that can have negative impacts. But we are rediscovering how to create more comfortable, healthier living environments that will limit those impacts and save money in the long run. Sometimes it’s as simple as going back to nature. But it also requires that we work together. And in the bigger picture, that’s where Community Choice Aggregation (CCA) has made major progress across the state. At least 25 CCAs serve more than 200 communities in California that work together to pool their electricity loads, increase efficiency and grid resilience, and encourage renewable energy projects. The combination of simpler solar solutions outlined here, CCAs, and countless related efforts are moving the state toward a much greener and cleaner energy future … and proving how every Californian can make a positive difference.    

Solar panel “farms” continue to spread across the Mojave between Desert Center and Blythe, CA.
This solar panel “farm” sprawls across the Mojave near Tamarisk and Desert Center. Enormous expanses of our open desert wildlands are being transformed to provide energy to distant cities. Source: Oliver Wainwright and The Guardian.

Check out these sources for more:

Community Choice Aggregation (CCA)

Inside Climate News reports on groundwater stresses from desert solar projects.

California Energy Commission

Passive Solar

A Passive Solar General Intro and Summary

NOAA Solar Calculator

Sustainable Works

California Academy of Sciences
The Academy’s Green Roof

California Air Resources Board Greenhouse Gas Inventory

US Green Building Council

One Architect’s Top 15 California Showcases

The Guardian Article

The 2023 Annual Global Climate Report summarizes how California is just another example of more general temperature trends around the globe.

The post Simpler Solar Solutions first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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Celebrating the Summer Solstice California Style https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/celebrating-the-summer-solstice-california-style/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=celebrating-the-summer-solstice-california-style Tue, 23 Jul 2024 05:39:56 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4484 Let’s explore two dissimilar celebrations during just one weekend after the summer solstice in two very different Californias that are only 100 miles apart. We often refer to the...

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Let’s explore two dissimilar celebrations during just one weekend after the summer solstice in two very different Californias that are only 100 miles apart. We often refer to the astounding diversity of natural and human landscapes that help define the Golden State; here is another reminder of our unparalleled variety of microclimates and cultural climates. We challenge you to identify the numerous connected themes embedded within this one story.

We start our weekend at the 50th annual Summer Solstice Celebration and Parade in Santa Barbara. We end this only-in-California weekend by making extraordinary discoveries on our bikes when CicLAvia cut through South L.A. along Western Avenue. 

El Capitan State Beach provided a beautiful staging ground to plan our attendance at one of Santa Barbara’s most festive events of the year. Like most other Southern California coastal campgrounds, staying overnight at El Capitan usually requires reservations months ahead of time. Camp sites are just a short walk to their relatively secluded beach, which is about 20 miles (and minutes) to the little city that has been coined our “American Riviera”. And like much of the Santa Barbara coastline nowadays, you will find most of the beach submerged if you visit during high tide. Assorted rolled and rounded rocks have been deposited in piles and stranded along with wave-sculpted driftwood at the base of the bluffs and just above tideline. Low tide offers opportunities for long walks and/or runs along the strips of temporarily-exposed sand, which are occasionally interrupted by rock outcrops and a few tide pools.

Low tide offers opportunities to explore strips of El Capitan State Beach. Advection fog that condensed over cold ocean currents drifts onshore to contrast with the clear skies and searing heat wave just a short distance inland during the summer solstice.
Native Americans (Chumash) thrived along this coast for thousands of years before the Spanish arrived. Stories about these stunning landscapes would eventually attract people from around the world.   

During this summer solstice weekend, the monotonous June Gloom had finally been squashed to near the sea surface by air descending out of a strong high-pressure system, producing Southern California’s first widespread heat wave of the year. But as is often the case when water temperatures hover near 60°F (15.5°C), a shallow layer of chilling fog frequently drifted off the ocean and backed up against the coastal cliffs. Wisps of fog occasionally rolled up and danced on to the marine terraces only to burn off or retreat back down to the beach. Just inland, the Santa Inez Mountains are being lifted as the crust is compressed in this region where the Pacific Plate is jammed against the North American Plate along the big bend in the larger San Andreas Fault system. As this Pacific Plate side attempts to slide to the northwest at about the rate that your fingernails grow, folds and faults bend and break the crust, thrusting the Santa Inez Mountains above the sea so that they loom over this thin strip of coastal plain. The great barrier is part of the Transverse Ranges that cut across this widest transect of the state with ridges and long valleys trending west-east. On this day, the mountains abruptly emerged up and above the shallow fog, exposing their coastal sage scrub and oak woodland slopes to bake in the dry summer solstice heat wave.

The Santa Ynez Mountains rise abruptly above the narrow Mediterranean coastal plain we know as Santa Barbara. Mostly nonnative trees, such as palms, dominate today’s human landscapes.

Such typical June weather conditions kept the streets of Santa Barbara basking in that sweet sea breeze soft spot between the cool beach and hot inland slopes during most of the day: a degree too warm in the sun, a degree too cool the shade. How could anyone possibly survive such discomfort?   

Such a perfect setting and weather stage was set for the crowds of more than 50,000 people. They gathered along Santa Barbara Street on Saturday, June 22, to watch the parade that would end at the lush tree-studded Alameda Park, where the three-day festival featured colorful artists, dancers, and an eclectic mix of musicians and local bands. The bizarre parade and the entire weekend evolved into something resembling a crowded amalgamation of the Doo Dah, a miniature Burning Man, and the Rose Parade gone awry. Participants ranged from older established residents who found the best of the California Dream long ago, to younger free spirits attempting to revive older hippie and beach cultures, to folks somewhere in between. On the surface, the whole sun worshiping and summer near the beach stereotypical Golden State cultures came alive on this weekend. Even the mix of those who had wandered out of the security of their multi-million-dollar homes with those who were living by the day and didn’t care was classic Californica. Scenes of people celebrating their California Dreams, surrounded by Spanish-style architecture, framed by coastal Mediterranean environments, complete with nonnative palms poking up from perfectly manicured green landscapes, could have come right out of a Hollywood movie.

Lush landscaping at the historic Santa Barbara Courthouse (adjacent to the Summer Solstice Parade route) requires attentive and costly planning and maintenance.
The sun is the star in Santa Barbara’s annual Summer Solstice Parade.

Closer investigation reveals another, more complicated side of Santa Barbara that counters most stereotypes. Thousands of residents (more than 13%) live below the poverty line. Blue-collar locals with their roots in this coastal town mix with recent immigrants working in service and construction industries. They squeeze into limited affordable housing, while thousands more workers cope with the local housing crisis by commuting from more affordable distant communities to earn a paycheck in paradise.   

A different type of art was on display in South LA during this year’s CicLAvia along Western Avenue during the summer solstice weekend.
Cars were blocked off Western Avenue so that folks could get in touch with South LA neighborhoods. Pedestrians, bikers, and skaters ruled on this day.  

To further demonstrate the great divide between the two Californias, we jump 100 miles east and a bit south into the just-as-renowned working-class cultures and densely-populated landscapes of South Los Angeles, about 10 miles from the beach. We can thank Metro’s cicLAvia celebrations for occasionally introducing thousands of visitors to these neighborhoods, which seem worlds away from the Santa Barbara where we reveled just one day earlier. At first, the only thing these iconic California locations might seem to share is the mild Mediterranean climate and a noon sun that climbs to nearly 80 degrees above the southern horizon during these longest summer solstice days. (The highest noon sun of the season is measured at about 71.5 degrees from the southern horizon along California’s northern border, to about 81 degrees along our southern border.) Community, environmental justice, access to open space, food deserts, poverty, urban heat islands, struggles for survival, economic opportunity, urban renewal, and gentrification enter our common vocabulary here. As with Santa Barbara (but for very different reasons), South LA has inspired researchers, writers, musicians, artists, moviemakers, activists, politicians, and entrepreneurs who have been sharing their perspectives about this place, while much of the world has been listening. The darkest narratives focus on crime, gang violence, drugs, and arguments about whether we should refer to historic violent eruptions as riots, rebellions, uprisings, or civil unrest. But look a little closer beyond the media’s oversimplified and exaggerated stereotypes and the stories become far more complicated — and interesting.      

There’s a lot of neighborhood pride on this South LA block.
This coin laundry burned to the ground, leaving a stereotypical dumping ground for those who have no shame and no respect for their neighbors.

Wander through the neighborhoods and business districts surrounding this gritty leg of Western Avenue that stretches from south of the I-10 Freeway to the I-105 Freeway. You will likely find people and landscapes that conform to whatever stereotype you choose. For instance, you will notice thousands of recent immigrants who are crowding in and filling spaces left by those who fled this crowded urban flatland to search for new opportunities in distant places. But you will also find people and landscapes that offer hope and new opportunities for success and renewal right here. The contradictions are complex. People from other parts of the country are often astounded to find the average cost of a modest single-family South LA home at around $700,000. Though this is less than the median $2 million+ in Santa Barbara, it is far higher than the U.S. average. And you will find plenty of folks who are rooted here and are staying and investing to improve the quality of these living and working environments. You will also find vegan restaurants, parks, churches, schools, and community meeting places where the focus is on physical and mental health and planning for a better future. I wrote about some of them in a few of our website stories we posted over the years, including A Cultural Tour of LA. (You can surf back through a few of our website pages to find them.) And when you venture along some of the tree-lined streets, where families work together to create a sense of community, you might not realize you are in one of LA’s more renowned lower-income working-class neighborhoods. It’s amazing how landscapes with trees can make such a positive difference by changing microclimates and cultural climates.

This is another street that connects to Western Ave. You can see how locals make positive change in their neighborhoods by nurturing landscapes with trees.
Trees are playing vital roles when planning the future of streetscapes across our state. This is one of the numerous booths set up along Western Avenue during CicLAvia.

Enter entrepreneurs turned local heroes Joe and Celia Ward-Wallace. I met Joe while admiring some of the artwork in his now famous South LA Café. He might be considered a celebrity businessman, but I’d like to consider him the local positive influencer and geographer. He has proven how investing time, energy, and hard work into a struggling neighborhood can result in big payoffs for everyone. I could feel how his interminable positive energy is transforming landscapes and bringing new opportunities to South LA. Joe and Celia’s work has grown far beyond their coffee shop and cultural center theme: Coffee. Community. Connection. They champion a nonprofit community foundation and have worked as coaches and consultants for a string of budding local businesses.

South LA Cafe embellishes this corner.
A proud Joe Ward-Wallace poses at his popular South LA Café.

Joe also understands the importance of trees that can add more than aesthetics as they soften the harsh urban heat island. When approaching South LA Cafe, you might first notice the trees he planted in spite of bureaucratic hurdles and costs that could have caused most folks to give up. And when you talk with him, you understand that he is one of those rare never-give-up souls with good ideas and dreams that are improving the quality of our living and working environments. It is obvious how a little greenery and shade in front of his thriving business has changed everything on this South LA corner, especially on an afternoon near the summer solstice. South LA Café has not only demonstrated how to cool the micro deserts created by urban heat islands, but how to bring healthy nourishment to a food desert.

Joe planted the trees in the background, which have already matured to produce precious shade. Next to be planted are the new trees in the foreground, which will also combine to change the nature of this landscape for the better.

South LA may never be a Santa Barbara (and vice versa), but comparing and contrasting the two places and their people during the summer solstice reminds us that we have plenty to learn from one another since we and our countless microclimates and cultural climates are all connected in profound ways. And the most impactful influencers are proving that Californians (like all of humanity) and our neighborhoods and landscapes really do have “more in common than the differences that separate us.”  

There’s a lot more to this Santa Barbara and South LA summer solstice story, so continue with the photo essay that follows and check out these websites:

South LA Café

LA Natural History Museum

TreePeople

Benefits of Urban Trees from the USDA/Forest Service

More Urban Tree Research

Santa Barbara pride was on display during their annual Summer Solstice Festival.
The benefits of trees are the focus in this signage at Alameda Park in Santa Barbara.
A well-maintained urban forest is evident in this parkland along Santa Barbara Street. The Santa Ynez Mountains rise in the background.
Artists and onlookers prepare for the big Summer Solstice Parade along Santa Barbara Street.
Flights of Fancy was this year’s theme for Santa Barbara’s Summer Solstice Festival and Parade.
Young and older dancers and artists from across the community are encouraged to participate in the parade.
Some of the entertaining parade floats and costumes border on the bizarre.
Parade watchers and participants converge on historic Alameda Park to dance, sing, and find some shade from the high sun as their favorite local bands play in the background.
High-angle summer solstice sun shines on CicLAvia on Western Avenue, South LA.
This area of South LA is directly below noisy flight paths as planes line up to land at nearby LAX.
Ubiquitous laundromats and liquor stores are scattered along Western Avenue in these working-class neighborhoods that are often considered food deserts.
Where are the trees in this part of South LA along Western Avenue?
Local churches, hair salons, and thrift stores often dominate the urban scenes here. Impermeable asphalt and concrete surfaces intensify the urban heat island.
Abandoned properties attract illegal dumping and cry out for attention, fortifying stereotypes.  
Green spaces and public parks are cherished breaks from the pavement, concrete, and other hardscapes common to working class urban neighborhoods. This park in south LA honoring Jesse Owens is a perfect example.  
The Los Angeles Dodgers have invested in this neighborhood, nurturing open spaces where young people can get some exercise and build their baseball skills.
Businesses that offer healthy food choices and even vegan options stand out In South LA.
Ready to order at South LA Café.
South LA Cafe also serves as a popular meeting place for locals and visitors from afar.
Joe Ward-Wallace displays his collection of images from around South LA in his café. 

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Cars: Driving and Dividing California https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/cars-driving-and-dividing-california/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cars-driving-and-dividing-california https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/cars-driving-and-dividing-california/#comments Wed, 27 Dec 2023 05:41:55 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4190 Whether Californians have learned to love or hate them, embrace, or reject them, cars have dominated California lives and livelihoods for more than a century. They’ve shaped our state’s...

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Whether Californians have learned to love or hate them, embrace, or reject them, cars have dominated California lives and livelihoods for more than a century. They’ve shaped our state’s cultures and human (and some natural) landscapes in ways that we too often take for granted. This story recalls how we celebrated our car culture until it impacted nearly every facet of our lives, from the very air we breathe to the ground we walk on to the microclimates we sense, and how some Californians have more recently rejected the “you can’t get there from here without a car culture” to reimagine life and landscapes beyond cars.

The Spanish first extended El Camino Real starting in the 1700s until it connected California’s roughly 600 miles of presidios, pueblos, and 21 Franciscan Missions from Baja to Sonoma. It was the first major road to be established over Native American pathways that had been navigated for many centuries. Notice how the route resembles today’s Hwy 101. Caltrans remembers this history with signage at rest stops along the route.     
Horses and wagons were required modes of transportation for the vaqueros and other newcomers who migrated into the state during the Spanish and Mexican Periods into the mid-1800s. This equestrian history is celebrated in parades across the state, including here at the annual Rose Parade.
Before it was drained, Tulare Lake was the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi. Ferries transported California miners and other early settlers across the lake with their animals, wagons, and other possessions long before cars and trucks appeared around the San Joaquin Valley. You will find this little historical panorama on the wall at Bravo Farms in Kettleman City.   

Just more than a century ago, the typical California commute or road trip around our growing cities and outposts was by foot, streetcar, or cable car, except for those who could afford a horse and buggy or carriage. Longer cross-country trips required wagons, stages, or trains. Bicycles were also pedaled into early urban scenes, with thousands of bicyclists organizing into bicycle clubs and demanding better roads for smoother bike rides. Our fledgling California settlements and wannabe cities grew into the 20th century without widely-paved roads and parking lots to accommodate cars.

Bodie may the best-preserved ghost town in the West. But it also gives us a chance to imagine California life, roads, and landscapes before cars.
The dirt road to what’s left of Ballarat in Panamint Valley will lead you into unpaved landscapes with horse, mule, and wagon histories. What was once a long arduous haul that took days has become a convenient stop during a road trip to Death Valley.
Here’s one way people and their valuables were transported across the country and around California before motor carriages. This stage was rolled in to the Wells Fargo Museum in Sacramento.

Revolutionary “horseless motor carriages” began rolling across the Golden State in the early 1900s. By 1905, there were already more than 6,000 vehicles (including motorcycles and trucks) bumbling through city streets and breaking down and getting lost and stuck on treacherous dirt roads to nowhere across the state. By 1906, the Auto Club was erecting directional road signs along crushed rock surfaces covered with oil and less-navigable dirt roads to serve those who were wealthy enough to afford their own vehicles. Auto Club members were issued ever-changing and improving road maps.

Those who could afford the first automobiles suddenly found some of California’s most remote and spectacular landscapes within reach. Roads began connecting to these natural treasures like tentacles unfolding and reaching out from the cities.    
 

After Ford rolled out the Model T in 1908, cars became more affordable for average families (and much less expensive than the shorter-range electric cars that were already navigating city streets) and the California car culture was off to the races. By the time the $18 million State Highway Act was passed in 1910, funding was far too paltry to build the roads and other car infrastructures that the public demanded in nearly every town, city, and county. Still, the bonds funded groundbreaking and paving designed to start a continuous system of roads built to connect cities and other key points from north to south (including the birth of what we now call Hwy 101).

Densely-packed San Francisco offered innovative transportation options long before cars appeared. Partly because The City grew up earlier than most other California urban areas, it wasn’t built to accommodate cars or the car cultures that would eventually dominate most of the rest of the state. The old cable cars continue up and down these steep hills today, mostly as scenic rides and tourist attractions.  

As the number of vehicles multiplied, there were plenty of critics. They noted the clouds of smoke belched out from unsafe vehicles that were running over defenseless pedestrians and crashing into one another, resulting in appalling rates of injury and death. But an unstoppable wave of car culture momentum took control and our relationships with cars eventually became as complicated as the people who have driven and interacted with them and the astounding varieties of automobile makes and models that have come and gone over the years.

Driven from the Great Plains during the Great Depression, up to 400,000 Dust Bowl refugees on the brink of starvation loaded their jalopies and trucks and headed for California during the 1930s. Often stalling somewhere along Historic Route 66, some never made it this far.  

Into the early 20th Century, advancing streetcar tracks and technologies led to more efficient electric railways in our cities, often championed by real estate speculators who profited from increasingly dependable public transportation systems connecting to their new developments. Families with the financial resources were encouraged to move farther away from city centers to find their California Dreams on bigger lots within sprawling suburbs. Volumes have been written about how these early public transportation systems, ironically, set the geographic stage and paved the way for the freeways that would replace them.

By the 1920s, cars were already impacting life and landscapes in the Golden State. Raceways evolved on the edges of spreading developments, where race car enthusiasts could find cheap open spaces. Some old raceway imprints might still be noticed while navigating today’s city streets or viewing aerial photos. The Beverly Hills Speedway had become popular by the early 1920s, but the Beverly Wilshire Hotel and other iconic landmarks will be found there today. 
 
Cars encouraged those with the resources to move away from city centers and into sprawling suburbs through the mid-1900s. The Wilshire Corridor stretched west and became a major link to downtown LA as the money also flowed toward the coast with the commuters. The big structure in the middle was known for decades as the May Company Department Store and is now an historic building along Wilshire’s Miracle Mile. This 1940 aerial photo appeared in the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures (within the same May Company building), courtesy of Bison Archives Photographs.       

The Arroyo Seco Parkway (later renamed the Pasadena Freeway) was completed in 1940 as the state’s (and arguably the nation’s) first freeway, connecting downtown LA to Pasadena suburbs. This was just a prelude to the pavement that was increasingly spreading and thoroughly covering and sealing the ground throughout cityscapes and suburbs and then extending in long and wide paths that radiated out to more remote coastal, mountain, and desert terrains. Following WWII, mass migrations into the state and out of our inner cities (commonly referred to as “white flight”) plopped millions of mostly middle-class families into outlying suburbs. These more distant developments were financed by bread winners encouraged by the accessibility and reliability of new free-flowing highways and freeways that quickly and conveniently linked commuters to urban centers.        

On October 29, 2023, the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway (AKA the Pasadena Freeway) was closed to cars for six hours. Pedestrians, skaters, and bikes took over to celebrate a Sunday morning without cars on our oldest freeway.   
It’s just one Sunday morning, but this anti-car revolt was planned and supported by local and state officials. Can you imagine the preparation that went into clearing our oldest Pasadena Freeway for this?    
 

Those with the resources evacuated the inner cities and took their wealth with them, leaving behind those without the means. Exacerbating the segregation and inequalities, freeways and other car-culture connections to the suburbs were often built through older neighborhoods with the least political and economic power to stop them. Bifurcated working-class communities from the Bay Area to Southern California looked on as people drove through and passed by their neighborhoods to their jobs in the city in the morning and then carried their earnings out to spend in the suburbs every evening and throughout most weekends. By the mid-1900s, LA’s Bunker Hill (which once served as home to the wealthy business class) became another symbol for the new urban California. The old Victorian homes were abandoned and then razed and replaced by sleek steel and glass skyscrapers to serve as office spaces for the growing number of commuters from the suburbs. The car-culture wave impacted every California city, but LA became the poster child. Automobile worship was first tempered and then ridiculed by some as a series of seemingly insurmountable and disturbing problems developed. Stand-out San Francisco fared better and even thrived at times by offering a denser, more cosmopolitan urban experience with all the exciting, cutting-edge cultural attractions and innovations (and convenient public transportation systems) that go with it. Most other California urban centers weren’t so lucky.      

You might never know today that LA’s Bunker Hill was once home to beautiful Victorian homes populated by wealthy business people who chose to live in the center of the city, near their investments. The convenience of the car changed all of that, encouraging those with the money to move where there was more space, but still within daily driving distance. The historic Victorians were scraped up and eventually replaced with these skyscrapers.     

Little Selby (your author) was born into this California that was growing and changing faster than anyone could grasp. Our working-class outpost on the western edge of Santa Ana was quickly surrounded by a population and economy that seemed to take off with unimaginable changes in some places while other communities suffered from abandonment. Open fields that once supported orchards and truck crops grew cookie-cutter housing tracks attracting middle-class newcomer commuters. We watched new highways and freeways blaze their way through what remained of partially-open thoroughfares or reach farther by using eminent domain to scrape away older properties and neighborhoods that got in the way, new routes erected to support millions of neophyte commuters in their single-occupancy vehicles. We didn’t realize it then, but the growth and change was wild and unprecedented.

Like Selby, who grew up here, this diverse working-class community on Roosevelt Street in Santa Ana has grown and evolved. As sandwich households cram into available housing and pool their growing financial resources, one thing hasn’t changed: most members of each generation continue to use their vehicles to connect them to work, school, shopping, and other activities as they interact with the outside world. Competition for parking spaces is so fierce, many residents have converted their front yards to driveways and personal parking lots.     
By the mid-1900s, the automobile allowed average families to embark on road trips that connected California to points east. The paved roads radiating out of urban areas also made it more convenient to escape from the crowded and growing urban centers and into the expansive great outdoors.
 

The times were exhilarating and exciting to some winners and participants, but troubling and destructive to some perceived losers who loathed a landscape and car culture with no sense of place or permanence. And these changes required wider roads, parking, and other paved spaces that dominated an infrastructure where cars were king. You know the old Joni Mitchell line about paving paradise and putting up a parking lot? Or how about Tom Petty’s editorial regarding life in Reseda, which more correctly referred to nearby parts of the San Fernando Valley: “There’s a freeway runnin’ through the yard.”    

The original landmark Sixth Street Bridge (AKA Sixth Street Viaduct) was completed in 1932, serving as a connector between downtown and Boyle Heights/East LA neighborhoods over the LA River. It was a symbol of how LA was replacing public transportation options to encourage car culture. Countless movies were filmed on and around this bridge that also spans major LA freeway arteries. After weathering and wearing to become a dangerous hazard, it was finally rebuilt and reopened in 2022 at a cost of $588 million. Notice the paved surfaces on top of paved surfaces that now include a convenient bike lane on the new bridge. The Hollywood Hills (and Hollywood sign) rise in the far distance, just to the right of downtown LA.

Relatively sprawling and expansive, Southern California’s coastal plains served as perfect foundations for the pavement that was stretching from the beach to the base of the mountains. As LA’s urban heat island developed into a massive urban heat basin, local and then regional microclimates warmed by at least a few degrees. Place your hand near a paved surface on any sunny afternoon or try walking barefoot across the pavement on a summer day: you will quickly sense the additional heat that now radiates through every California urban landscape. Now follow the trails into nearby undeveloped hills covered with the natural plant communities that existed before our pavement: Evapotranspiration from Mediterranean grasslands, coastal sage, chaparral, and oak and riparian woodlands keep afternoon temperatures noticeably cooler. You can also compare the hot paved surfaces to the relatively cooler afternoons common to our city parks or beneath the street trees that decorate our precious urban forests. Further proof of how pavement transforms microclimates is found in research showing how urban heat islands have become particularly extreme even across car-dominated desert cities such as Phoenix and Las Vegas, after the natural soils, cacti, and other desert scrub communities are covered by expanding suburbs. I examine these changes in more detail in my California Sky Watcher book, which will appear in a few months, published by Heyday.

Here is where the 110 Freeway cuts through South LA neighborhoods. Every bit of surface is paved over and walls of concrete dominate much of the landscape. It would be hard to imagine a generic landscape that could be more offensive and insulting to our senses. And on afternoons with little wind, air temperatures here are several degrees higher than in surrounding parks and nearby natural areas. But on this exceptional day, we have rejected our cars to participate in one of LA’s CicLAvia events.
Do these bicyclists look out of place in this stereotypical LA landscape paved for cars?

By contrast, you can also sense how the San Francisco Bay Area has evaded some negative effects of our car culture. Constricted on its bumpy little 49-square-mile peninsula, San Francisco was built and cast in the 1800s without cars; and its steep, narrow streets show it. The famed cable cars, streetcars, and hostility to automobiles stand out to this day as if The City were showcasing its antithesis to LA. Beyond The City, the Bay Area’s physical geography helped drive growing differences and perceived divisions between Northern and Southern California. Enormous water bodies separated spreading megalopolises and obstructed potential freeway routes that would have otherwise connected them. Limited car lanes were directed and merged toward the few exorbitantly-expensive bridges that acted like hourglasses; the flowing traffic had to be squeezed into narrow funnels that opened toward urban landscapes on each end of a bridge. The Bay Area’s combined hilly terrain, giant bays, and other assorted and dramatic natural landscapes concentrated populations, restricted where freeways could be built, and forced other ways of imagining transportation and daily commutes.     

Growing human developments and transportation infrastructures expanded until they were blocked at the edges of large bays and steep hillsides that give the San Francisco Bay Area its character. Workers looking for more affordable housing were eventually squeezed east, all the way out to the Central Valley (sprawling across the right side of this image). Connecting ribbons of pavement followed them and became so crowded that some commutes have grown to two hours each way. This image is the work of Bill Bowen, who has contributed other cutting-edge images to stories on this website and for this project over the years.     
 
Viewing over Berkeley and Oakland and across the bay to San Francisco, we can sense how growth and developments and transportation infrastructures have been limited and often controlled by the region’s physical geography. The recently rebuilt Bay Bridge serves as the only connector in this view, where traffic must be siphoned to get vehicles from one side to the other. 

From the 1960’s and 70’s and beyond, car troubles were emerging from the paved horizon and they impacted more than our urban landscapes. Exhaust that belched out of millions of vehicles without pollution controls began literally choking Californians to death, emboldening air quality management districts to exert their growing powers. Folks who didn’t develop lethal respiratory illnesses still felt the pain of ozone and other air pollutants originating from dirty vehicles. The problems were realized by kids like us who struggled to get a breath while participating in competitive sports and other recreational activities. We didn’t know that we would damage our health when exercising in smoggy air that was twice as polluted compared to today.

Carbon monoxide is a common (and sometimes deadly) air pollutant produced by internal combustion engines. Smog checks, efficiency standards, and other pollution controls have helped to dramatically cut emissions in regions across the state since the 1970s.        
Ozone concentrations usually peak during afternoons after the sun has baked pollutants trapped below inversion layers that commonly form in inland valleys. This pollutant is so notorious, it is often equated with the word smog. But note how ozone (as with many other forms of air pollution) was cut by roughly half over about 40 years even while the population and number of cars in the state was doubling. These efforts have saved thousands of lives and millions of people from suffering respiratory illnesses.      

Like most adventurous California teens at the time, road trips for me meant escaping to the freedom of new places and open spaces. And the list of magical places to visit and experience grew as my mental maps expanded. I started driving when I was 16 so that I could get to my part-time blue-collar jobs and save some money that would lead to more independence and the great outdoors. I bought my first junk car with that money before graduating from high school. “Get your motor runnin’, head out on the highway” became a theme song for this new-found freedom as long as I could keep my car from breaking down. I tuned in my car stereo and turned up the volume to overcome the roar of wind whooshing into my open windows and past my ears as landscapes raced by and more distant and exotic places called out. What a rush! At last, I was free to break away and both figuratively and literally blaze my own trails. Fantastical vistas and the most remote trailheads were finally within my reach.

Ribbons of pavement have brought Mojave Desert and other wilderness areas within less than two hours striking distance of most southern California urban areas. But you will need a reliable car and a full tank of gas to get here.

Back then, new freeway and road traffic flowed relatively freely compared to today. Global warming and anthropogenic climate change and crushing traffic gridlock had not yet entered into the public discourse. The expanding freeways and additional lanes to everywhere began resembling massive arteries and veins that gradually narrowed into capillaries to feed commuter traffic into more distant communities. When my unreliable clunker was working properly, I could smoothly zip between my jobs and college classes. I occasionally slapped my class notes on my steering wheel to cram study time into my drive time. Once, suffering from sleep deprivation and carbon monoxide poisoning from all the car exhaust, I dosed off while driving on the freeway. I woke up at what seemed to be nearly a mile later, still in my lane, stunned to realize how my steady foot on the accelerator kept my car pacing the steadily-flowing traffic. This was, literally, a car culture wake-up call that I wouldn’t forget. I realized how fortunate I was to be alive and free to make it to my job and classes that day among all the car-commuter madness. You would certainly not survive such an experience in today’s traffic that is constantly stopping and reaccelerating within much narrower lanes.         

Sepulveda Pass is just one of the numerous passes and canyons we have paved through to link regions on opposite sides of mountain barriers. This (the 405) is often the busiest freeway in the nation. It connects the West Side of LA with the San Fernando Valley. This was a good traffic day, but when it jams up (which is frequently) motorists can choose to cram on to the paved path beside it known as Sepulveda Blvd.   

And then the traffic monster raised its ugly head. During car culture growth years, if a freeway or road got too crowded, we widened it or built another one. But the throngs of new arrivals and commuters would quickly pack the new lanes until we had to build another and then another until we began running out of places to build them and neighborhoods that would allow them. “Rush hour” commutes expanded to two or three hours for some. And so we developed dysfunctional love-hate relationships with our cars and I shared those feelings even though my commutes were never that long. As we worked our way into the final years of the last century, many commuters found themselves trapped by the very car cultures and suburban lifestyles that were supposed to liberate them. Those who couldn’t afford to move closer to their school and work were stuck in gridlock, wasting away both physically and mentally in their nearly stationary cars, poisoned by the high concentrations of air pollutants surrounding them.

The notorious 405 is up to 12 lanes wide as it slices through West LA past Westwood. On this off day, traffic was moving; but local motorists have learned to expect the worst from the traffic monster on this stretch near some of the busiest freeway intersections in the nation.

For too many Californians, today’s car culture represents an inefficient loss of precious time and a deteriorating quality of life and health. Bay Area commuters have settled as far away as Stockton and other relatively inexpensive Central Valley locales. Thousands of daily commuters into the LA Basin come from more affordable lnland Empire and high desert communities. Many of them drive up to two hours to their jobs in the mornings and then another two hours back home in the evenings. Living around relatively affordable Bakersfield and working in LA County job centers has become a lifestyle for some. Residents around other growing conurbations (such as the state’s second-largest city, San Diego, and in Sacramento) have watched with trepidation over the years and revolted with movements earning names such as “Not Yet LA.” Yet, apparently irresistible car culture momentum has also overwhelmed many of those communities to commit what critics consider the same old mistakes while expecting different outcomes. Look at the gridlock that builds each weekday afternoon as commuters check out of their jobs near the coast and then cram onto freeways, jamming all lanes that point inland, toward more affordable eastern San Diego County suburbs. Listen to the sometimes-daunting daily traffic reports reverberating from Sacramento and every other major California metropolis when serious injury and fatal accidents block lanes here and shut down freeways there. The lucky ones just get stuck in traffic gridlock behind each incident. For the least fortunate, their beloved (or hated) cars turned on them to become violent high-speed killing machines when seat belts, air bags, and other safety features weren’t enough to stop the carnage.  

When new lanes were first designed to encourage carpooling (and some EVs) along our busier urban freeways, commuters responded by sharing rides so they could zip past the gridlock. But as all lanes became more crowded, carpool lanes were not much relief. This is especially true during weekends when travelers ride with friends and family members to jam up the carpool lanes. Since it is at least moving at a crawl, this would be considered a decent traffic day on LA and Bay Area freeways.  

The car-culture momentum balloon started deflating decades ago in some of our major cities, partly because it became too expensive and destructive to rip up neighborhoods and make way for more cars. You could argue that the revolt began way back in the 1970s when the San Francisco Bay Area committed to building and supporting efficient public transportation systems such as BART. I was a beneficiary of those attempts to get people out of their cars. When I moved to densely-packed San Francisco, it was like landing on another planet or in the Land of Oz. I quickly learned that trying to maneuver my manual transmission (AKA a clutch) while frantically bobbing my car up and down the steep, narrow streets was asking for stress and trouble. And it wasn’t necessary. So, I would leave my junky car behind for days and effortlessly ride safe and efficient buses, streetcars, and BART, with no worries about parking or traffic. And I got frequent free entertainment from the circus-like cast of characters that would unexpectedly appear on all the different public transit options. My car came in handy when leaving The City for one-day adventures over the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marin Headlands, Mt. Tam, Muir Woods, Pt. Reyes, Stinson Beach, or to points south such as Santa Cruz Mountains haunts like Big Basin Redwoods, or the scenic beaches around Pescadero, Año Nuevo, Davenport, and Santa Cruz. The car was discarded and convenient public transportation embraced during weekdays to get to graduate school and work, but the car was cherished during weekends. I’ve been the fortunate one to live, work, and play in the best of both transportation worlds.

Our most celebrated Golden Gate Bridge has funneled traffic between San Francisco and Marin County since 1937. This is the only connecting route to the north directly from The City, unless you want to catch a ferry.  
How important are bridges in the Bay Area? Rebuilding the historic San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge (completed in 2013) became the most expensive public works project in California history. This crowded artery connects Oakland and the East Bay to little Treasure and Yerba Buena Islands and then to San Francisco. More than 250,000 vehicles pass over it each day at speeds that frequently slow to below 10 mph during most rush “hours” and other busy periods.      

The Bay Area’s anti-automobile movement was bolstered by the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake that badly damaged or destroyed elevated two-level portions of the Embarcadero and Central Freeways. Instead of replacing them, City residents successfully fought to reclaim their views and neighborhoods. The results are seen as today’s unobstructed spectacular views of the Bay from the Embarcadero and in the parks and other public spaces along Octavia Boulevard, landscapes that were previously sliced, blocked, and dominated by massive freeway structures. During this revolutionary period, San Francisco’s late poet laureate, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, famously expressed the growing popular frustrations: “What destroys poetry of a city? Automobiles destroy it, and they destroy more than the poetry. All over America, all over Europe in fact, cities and towns are under assault by the automobile, are being literally destroyed by car culture.”

Once you navigate your car off the bridges and into San Francisco streets, you will need a lot of skill and luck maneuvering through the crowded maze of steep, one-way streets. You will need even more luck finding parking, which is why so many residents (such as here in Chinatown) rely on their feet, bikes, or public transportation to get around.
Walking through narrow Chinatown streets and toward downtown San Francisco is a lot easier and more rewarding than stressing out in your car.

In contrast to stereotypes, Los Angeles and other parts of Southern California have also recently rejected some new freeways. It may be no surprise that the once-proposed Beverly Hills Freeway (which would have cut through some of the wealthiest communities in the state) was scrapped decades ago. And the last freeway to slice through densely-populated LA Metro neighborhoods was the 105 (Century Freeway), completed in 1993, costing more than $2 billion. Today, giant billboards advertising personal injury law firms soar over this freeway and its working-class neighborhoods that didn’t have the power to stop such a divider. But more recently, South Pasadena and surrounding communities finally blocked the long-planned extension of the 710 Freeway that would have bifurcated their neighborhoods.

A freeway once ran through it. Residents in San Francisco’s Hayes Valley successfully lobbied to eliminate the earthquake-damaged Central Freeway that carved through their neighborhood. Patricia’s Green replaced it. It was one of numerous open spaces that combined to make this the first U.S. city to have a park within a 10-minute walk for every resident. Controversial gentrification followed the beautification.     

And just a few years ago, after long and bitter battles, activists managed to save beloved Trestles surfing beach and San Onofre State Beach (near the border between San Diego and Orange Counties) from a massive toll road. New highways and freeways are still being proposed and debated farther out in Inland Empire and high desert exurbs, complete with the familiar clashing pro and con players fighting to gain momentum and win the hearts of residents, business leaders, and policymakers. Similar battles over what to do about cars continue in inland exurbs beyond the Bay Area that extend well into and through Central Valley cities. They pit car-friendly traditionalists, motivated by growing traffic and commuter crises, against those who see what has happened to larger conurbations closer to the coast and want to preserve what remains of the places and environments they cherish.     

This mural in Pacific Beach depicts how the car culture had taken San Diego neighborhoods by storm by the mid-1900s.
Today, pavement still dominates even in pedestrian- and public transportation-friendly landscapes around downtown San Diego. Massive parking structures are required to drain and then store the cars off these streets surrounding San Diego Padres’ Petco Park.
Most industrial landscapes in our cities are also dominated by paved surfaces to keep truck and other traffic flowing. It’s difficult to believe that this lifeless landscape, exhibiting classic urban heat island microclimates, is adjacent to busy restaurants, clubs, and other attractions in San Diego’s popular Gaslamp Quarter. During weekends, it is nearly abandoned to bake in the sun. In the distance, the Coronado Bridge routes traffic along State Route 75 between San Diego and Coronado. The impressive height allows larger ships to pass under it.

We must pause to pay homage here to some of the most offensive monuments demonstrating how we, in our desperation, torture ourselves when we are forced to crowd together with our cars: parking structures. Yes, multi-level parking structures save precious urban space for other activities and they decrease the extent of paved surfaces compared to sprawling parking lots. But once inside a monotonous parking structure, have you noticed that you could be anywhere at any time? It is difficult to imagine how we could build more generic and dull environments. Not only do the different sections and levels all look the same in one structure, but they look and feel no different in cities and suburbs hundreds of miles away. There is just no “there” there. As soon as we enter the gates, we lose our sense of time and place and become disconnected from the unexpected surprises waiting for us in the outside world. Day or night, rain or shine, who cares? We are suddenly surrounding by bland concrete surfaces in every dimension, as if stuck in a Twilight Zone existence. But we are forced to tolerate this loss of precious quality time and sense of place so that we can reach our desired destination, which could be government or business offices, or a clinic, college class, sporting event, amusement park, concert, store, theater, or some other mall-like experience. You can’t be blamed for suffering from a case of claustrophobia while hunting for a space to squeeze your car in to and then walking through these hardscape labyrinths. And don’t even dare start wondering what might happen during an earthquake or fire. The insults to the senses multiply when impatient drivers honk their horns and compete for the closest space and when cheap car alarms are activated to echo among the other commotions … parking structures quickly devolving into unnerving peace stealers. “It’s not a walk in the park” is the understatement for such experiences, which makes one wonder why we don’t demand better from the people who design, build, and maintain these scars on our landscapes and psyches. How about adding, at the least, a few more colorful murals or other displays of art and humanity?

Here’s how residents in San Diego’s Barrio Logan responded to the freeway and bridge structure that cut through their neighborhood. They used the pillars as an opportunity to decorate their Chicano Park. Most motorists traveling on the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge have no clue what lies below the elevated pavement.   
Instead of allowing these structures to become more examples of generic lost landscapes of division surrendered to car culture, residents of Barrio Logan in San Diego reclaimed their sense of place. This park with its playgrounds became a community meeting space. Artists added thought-provoking color until Chicano Park boasted “the largest concentration of Chicano murals in the world.”     

As we progress through this century, you will notice valiant efforts in nearly every city to get people out of their cars. They include innovations in telecommuting, building more affordable housing near schools and jobs, and funding and encouraging the use of public transportation and safer pedestrian and bicycle right-of-ways. As example, several California cities are fishing for more resources to fund light rail and that includes new lines that are stretching across the LA area. Meanwhile, according to Public Road Data from the State of California, we now have more than 175,000 miles of maintained roads in the Golden State, with about 400,000 lane miles. The more than 14 million registered automobiles and 31 million total registered vehicles travel more than 330 billion miles each year on California roads. And according to the California Office of Traffic Safety and CHP in 2022, around 4,000 people (and 1,100 pedestrians) are killed in hundreds of thousands of accidents that result in hundreds of thousands of injuries on our state’s roads every year. We see every day how cars, and the infrastructures and landscapes we have built to accommodate them, are suddenly or in the long-run impacting all of us whether we like it or not. Even in many remote locations, the very same vehicles that give us access to the great outdoors are interrupting the peace and wild landscapes we cherish. Our bipolar love-hate relationship with cars intensifies.           

Welcome to car culture in Canyon Country, Santa Clarita. New developments continue expanding the suburbs and exurbs, extending the wildland-urban interface farther out near Hwy 14. This could be almost anywhere and any year in California during the last 75 years, but it’s 2023.
Many of these new homeowners were searching for a sense of peace and security in distant Canyon Country that they couldn’t find in crowded cities. They also found more affordable housing here rather than moving all the way to Nevada, Arizona, or Texas. But it’s a relatively isolated cul-de-sac culture where developers struggle (and sometimes neglect) to build supporting community infrastructures and neighbors work to establish their own cultures and sense of place. Most of the breadwinners are long-distance commuters. Get something, lose something.  

And isn’t it fitting that debates about cars have become just as polarizing as most political debates these days? Listen to the advocates (often on the political right), who mostly celebrate traditional car cultures, life in the suburbs and exurbs, and the perceived libertarian independence that accompanies such lifestyles. You’d think that cars were sent to us from heaven above. And for those living in the most rural and remote regions of the state, cars and trucks continue to represent necessary tools for survival. By contrast, listen to the pundits on the opposite side (often from the political left and clustered in our urban centers) echo the criticisms and sentiments of the late revolutionary writer Lawrence Ferlinghetti. You’d think cars were instruments of the devil.

Old Grapevine Pass, now also known as Tejon Pass, requires vehicles to make a steep climb before finally descending to the other side. That other side will connect to LA suburbs if you are going south and to San Joaquin farmland if you are traveling north (such as in this photo). Either way, the dramatically changing landscapes along busy Interstate 5 often create a sense of drama that might make some folks hesitate: do I really want to pass into that crazy other world of SoCal or NorCal? Some vehicles occasionally revolt by overheating; others crash over the side of Interstate 5 or into one another, as if to violently object to being thrust into disconcerting changes of scenery and cultures.       

What are your experiences with and views about cars? Do you think they represent freedom and independence or are they killing us and destroying California lives and landscapes? A little of both? I’ve chased the California Dream across our state on foot, on my bike, in my car, and on all types of public transportation; and I’ve been fortunate to have lived and learned from all of these experiences, celebrating in and sometimes suffering from very different transportation worlds. But I’m also now fortunate to live in a city (Santa Monica) where I have transportation options that include hopping on my bike and pedaling in almost any direction along our many relatively safe bike routes. Our ability to build bridges and pathways toward a brighter and more efficient transportation future depends on a better understanding of the important rolls all of these options (and that includes our traditional cars and newer EVs) have played and will play as we attempt to steer toward better living and working environments.     

View this animation illustrating how roads were paved across much of celebrated car-culture poster child LA County until there was no more room for them. The authors suggested that demand on those roads has been growing for nearly 40 years as more cars were crammed into limited transportation infrastructures. Check out their other maps showing historical growth in LA County.

Here are some traditional maps showing major California highways.
And: https://www.tripinfo.com/maps/ca

This impressive interactive GIS site classifies our highways and roads. You can click to choose a wide range of valuable information related to this story.

Finally, as a bonus for navigating through this story, you are invited to breeze through the following colorful photo essays that showcase classic California cars and transportation landscapes. The first set (click to page 2) skips around California’s landscapes made for cars and some that have rejected cars. The second set (click to page 3) celebrates various classic cars that I have recently photographed to illustrate some of California’s car art and culture history.

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Excavating History in our Hoods https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/excavating-history-in-our-hoods/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=excavating-history-in-our-hoods Fri, 09 Jul 2021 16:19:04 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=3327 Stereotyping often allows us to confirm our preconceived, superficial notions about people and places. It requires little work or investigation and is even encouraged within our misinformed social media...

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Stereotyping often allows us to confirm our preconceived, superficial notions about people and places. It requires little work or investigation and is even encouraged within our misinformed social media cultures that are dominated by abbreviated tweets and texts. It also traps people and our perceptions of places into boxes that can’t be escaped, allowing us to move on, in our restrictive ignorance, to the next oversimplified stereotype. But we know that every person and neighborhood – every place and its people – have rich histories and compelling stories to share if only we attempt to dig deeper. Pull back the curtain, look around your neighborhood, and become the local landscape detective. Why do particular people live there and what forces have shaped today’s geography? You may discover generations of people and families, with their unique stories, who can help us understand how sequent occupance has constructed our evolving cultural landscapes.

California has nurtured its share of oversimplified stereotypes about its diverse people and places and you are probably recalling some of them as you read this. The world-famous beach town and tourist attraction known as Santa Monica may be just one example. With today’s home prices averaging more than $1.5 million, it is often considered just another poster child symbolizing overpriced beach communities that have pushed most working and even middle-class families far inland to more affordable locations within or beyond the Golden State. But, as in so many other communities, it hasn’t always been this way. It was once home to thriving working-class neighborhoods, where people without wealth could enjoy open spaces, iconic beaches, and refreshing breezes off the ocean…a piece of the California Dream without the riches. You might visit today’s Virginia Avenue Park to see how City officials and community leaders have struggled to support vestiges of these historic neighborhoods that have earned a closer look.    

The following one-hour video is a masterfully-produced blending of art, history, and geography that helps us understand the stories behind these landscapes. Though the setting is in the Pico Neighborhood of Santa Monica, it could be about your family or neighborhood or the multitude of other California communities and ethnic groups that combine to define the most diverse state in the history of the world. After viewing the video, you might want to tour through the series of current images that follow here. They illustrate how a traditional working-class neighborhood has evolved after being bifurcated by a major freeway more than 50 years ago and, more recently, threatened with gentrification pressures familiar to countless other California communities. If you wish to learn more about L.A.’s working-class neighborhoods beyond Santa Monica, you will want to visit our earlier story on this web site, Eat Your Way through L.A.: A Cultural Tour of Los Angeles. For now, enjoy the video:            

Learn about the project and view the video:

The Trailer:

Once you have seen the one-hour video, you are invited to follow the following images that wander through parts of today’s Pico Neighborhood, July, 2021.

Still Here after 100 Years. Churches have often anchored California’s working-class communities, such as the Pico Neighborhood. The First A.M.E. Church on Michigan Avenue, recognized in the film, advertised its centennial celebration in 2021. Note the wall behind the church on the far right; the adjacent Santa Monica Freeway menaces on the other side.
Dividing a Community. Numerous streets were cut off when Interstate 10 sliced through the Pico Neighborhood and connecting arteries were built to support it. You can find similar landscapes scattered throughout California, where freeways created formidable barriers through established working-class communities.
Today’s 20th Street. It is difficult to imagine the cohesiveness of neighborhoods before major transportation arteries sliced through them. You can see how the Pico Neighborhood was forced to adapt and evolve with separated north (to the left) and south (to the right) sections. This is looking east, down to the Santa Monica Freeway from the 20th Street overpass, near the Olympic Blvd. intersection featured in the movie.
Olympic and 20th in 2021. There’s little hint of the residential community that once flourished around this intersection and was highlighted in the video, although you might recognize a few surviving structures. Looking northeast (inland) along Olympic, past 20th today, and to the right, you will also find a top-rated (and expensive, especially for this neighborhood) private school.
Industrial Landscapes Replace a Working-class Neighborhood. Most visitors rarely encounter these working landscapes that seem far removed from the popular tourist attractions that have made Santa Monica famous. But this center strip along Olympic points toward downtown, the Promenade, the beach, and the pier, all just about a mile away. The Olympic/20th Street intersection featured in the video is directly behind us. Note how the most recent drought was also impacting landscapes during the summer of 2021.
Streets Built for Cars. When the interstate invaded more than 50 years ago, more intimate, compact neighborhoods were bulldozed into paved surfaces to serve car cultures. This view is toward the southeast, along the 20th Street overpass. A freeway onramp and auto body shop decorates today’s car-friendly landscape.
Where the Interstate Meets the Pacific. Driving toward the beach, in just about a mile, most folks will soon notice how Interstate 10 passes Santa Monica Pier and becomes PCH toward Malibu. But passengers in these cars traveling along this sunken freeway route may never realize they are racing directly through one of California’s storied working-class neighborhoods to get to the beach. The A.M.E. Church highlighted in the film (and its freeway barrier) can be seen perched on the other side. As if to taunt, the fencing only mimics a barrier: Is it designed to protect the neighborhood from the freeway or vice versa? 
No Outlet. Numerous streets once connected a neighborhood before the interstate sliced through here more than 50 years ago; they now end abruptly in these cul-de-sac-meets-freeway landscapes. Proximity to the air- and noise-polluting interstate decreased living standards and kept housing costs lower than surrounding neighborhoods. More recently, higher-income bargain hunters flush with cash have discovered one of the last relatively “affordable” places on the West Side, accelerating the familiar gentrification trends that have impacted so many California communities. The results include the many families with roots in Santa Monica forced to relocate to distant, more affordable inland locations.
Connecting to and Serving the Monster. The adjacent freeway and the connecting roads and gas stations that serve it have created a sometimes-confusing landscape in the Pico Neighborhood. These car culture landscapes efficiently (before traffic gridlock hit) connected Santa Monica to the surrounding behemoth conurbation we know as L.A. Here, we look inland (north and east) toward the high-priced high rise density in Westwood and Century City in the distance. 
Pinched into Spaces without Purpose. Where city streets approach the intruding sunken freeway at awkward angles, it creates these slivers of lost land that are pinched without a purpose. Even in a city with skyrocketing real estate values, there are still a few forgotten splinters that barely serve to separate usable space from the interstate. 
A Community Discovers its Power. When residents of the Pico Neighborhood began to discover and exercise their political power, City leaders (such as in the City Council) paid attention. The result was a reimagined and remodeled Virginia Avenue Park that reopened in 2005. It includes the abundant open space, basketball courts, and other sports facilities that you might expect at any park, but it also functions as a vital center for the neighborhood. The City’s description serves as a good summary: “In addition to outdoor amenities, Virginia Avenue Park is home to a vibrant community center offering a variety of free educational, recreational programs and activities for Santa Monica families of all ages and abilities.”
Open Space and Recreation in the Neighborhood. Virginia Avenue Park is more than nine acres in the Pico Neighborhood. Serving as a modern example of how folks can come together to celebrate community, you will find a diversity of people of all ages enjoying its open spaces and meeting places. Here, about a mile from the beach, summers are relatively cool; but that doesn’t stop local kids from splashing in fountains surrounded by a library, meeting facilities, and local activities that include after school programs and camps and a Saturday Farmers’ Market. It is difficult to overstate or even imagine the amount of volunteer time and work that has been required to make this park such a success and a lasting valuable asset for the neighborhood. While reading this, you might be acknowledging or at least imagining how such a precious space could improve your community.
More Recent Addition. The more recent extension of the Metro Expo Line brought light rail through the neighborhood in 2015. It was cheered by those who were looking for better public transportation choices that didn’t involve cars, but criticized by others who worried about another transportation corridor running through their working-class neighborhood. This train stops at the 17th Street Station as it transports passengers inland from the turnaround stop in nearby downtown Santa Monica near the Pier. Last stop will be downtown L.A.
Connecting to L.A. through the Pico Neighborhood. Here is where the train makes a slight turn as it winds inland toward 20th Street and through Santa Monica’s industrial landscapes. It should arrive in downtown L.A. in less than 45 minutes.

One last reminder: If you wish to learn more about L.A.’s working-class neighborhoods beyond Santa Monica, you will want to visit our earlier story on this web site, Eat Your Way through L.A.: A Cultural Tour of Los Angeles.

              

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Connecting Yesterday’s Redlining to Today’s Gentrification and Displacement https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/connecting-yesterdays-redlining-to-todays-gentrification-and-displacement/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=connecting-yesterdays-redlining-to-todays-gentrification-and-displacement Mon, 08 Mar 2021 21:12:28 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=3020 Connections between redlining, segregation, gentrification, displacement, migration, and affordable housing continue to dominate our research about how old boundaries may still separate our neighborhoods and how our urban areas...

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Connections between redlining, segregation, gentrification, displacement, migration, and affordable housing continue to dominate our research about how old boundaries may still separate our neighborhoods and how our urban areas can better serve and nurture all of their residents and workers. Skyrocketing housing prices have further energized these debates. You can see why we have addressed these topics in previous stories on this web site and within our publication.

Recently, developing geospatial technologies have revolutionized how we research these issues, trends, and problems. New maps join our old maps to inform and encourage us to view our cities and neighborhoods through clearer lenses and with fresh perspectives that we could only have imagined years ago. In this story, we have selected a few recent sources shared by geographers Jing Liu, Pete Morris, and Rob O’Keefe.  

The tsunami of data and maps that are being reexamined and produced for us to peruse and interpret can be overwhelming, so we will try to narrow our sources to a handful of recent projects and organizations whose efforts can be tied together. This is an exceptional story for our web site since we are not so much interpreting or analyzing the data here. Instead, we are sharing the work of other researchers and scholars by linking you to several sites that might help all of us understand how our neighborhoods and cities are evolving with their own histories of successes and failures. Our story ends with a short photo essay.  

We will remind you to be careful about oversimplifying and accepting popular interpretations of these maps and studies. Our cities are as complicated as the people who work and live in them. We have been forced to reconsider and adjust some formerly accepted theories and assumptions about how they evolve and change. We must admit that future researchers may discredit some of today’s popular theories, assumptions, and overgeneralizations about how past landscapes, people, and policies might explain what we see today.

Ours are perplexing urban landscapes of sequent occupance, continually remodeled by countless forces that we struggle to understand. Cities and neighborhoods we see today are products of the past, but they also reflect our recent decisions and policies, requiring us to accept responsibility for them. When wearing his historical geographer cap, Pete Morris correctly warns us about the rhetorical power of maps, especially when they use color-coded jargon to support popular belief systems. We should also be careful to make what may first seem to be convenient links between past and current urban geographies when such relationships may be much more complicated. In other words, more cautious micro-scale analyses might challenge assumptions we have manufactured from overgeneralized maps that may have supported our presumptions.  

With these cautionary thoughts, we invite you to use the following links to expand your knowledge of how redlining, segregation, gentrification, migration, displacement, and affordable housing might leave their imprints on California’s urban people and landscapes. You are encouraged to construct your own informed interpretations while pondering each of the following outside sources.       

This educational video traces the historic policies that set the foundations for today’s conflicts over gentrification. Though it is intended for a nationwide audience and discussion, neighborhoods in Los Angeles and San Francisco are highlighted, especially toward the end; it was produced by the UC Berkeley Urban Displacement Project, Federal Reserve Bank of San Francisco, and Great Communities Collaborative, an Initiative of the San Francisco Foundation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0zAvlmzDFc

Consider San Francisco’s Legacy of Redlining, produced by the UC Berkeley Center for Community Innovation at the Urban Displacement Project:
https://www.urbandisplacement.org/redlining

Here is a more detailed map from the Urban Displacement Project showing gentrification, displacement, and exclusion in the Bay Area, but with a rich choice of relevant layers to add:
https://www.urbandisplacement.org/san-francisco/sf-bay-area-gentrification-and-displacement

This more detailed map from the Urban Displacement Project covers southern California’s most populated coastal counties: Mapping Neighborhood Change in Southern California: Los Angeles, Orange, and San Diego Counties: https://www.urbandisplacement.org/los-angeles/los-angeles-gentrification-and-displacement

ESRI has published a wealth of redlining and gentrification maps that cover the Bay Area with thorough explanations and interpretations. (A few may require sign in to ArcGIS online):
https://www.arcgis.com/apps/MapJournal/index.html?appid=1832f7860d634b83877475144748908e
Don’t miss the series of seven ESRI Bay Area diversity maps (from above) that illustrate how the percentage of whites in the population has changed since 1920; watch on their page 6 as neighborhoods evolve with their redlining and gentrification imprints. 

You will find redlining maps and detailed neighborhood descriptions and data from the 1930s for Sacramento, Stockton, Oakland, San Francisco, San Jose, Fresno, Los Angeles, and San Diego at Mapping Inequality: Redlining in New Deal in America. Simply click on one of the California cities at
https://dsl.richmond.edu/panorama/redlining/#loc=6/36.43/-121.553
However, you might want to read through the introduction that describes the Home Owners’ Loan Corporation (HOLC), their grading criteria, and the time frame: https://dsl.richmond.edu/panorama/redlining/#loc=6/36.752/-119.861&text=intro

Here is a KQED article about attempts to recover from redlining, focusing on Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood:
https://www.kqed.org/news/11648307/has-oaklands-fruitvale-neighborhood-recovered-from-redlining

Gentrification and displacement were impacting California’s people and cities long before researchers were using scholarly terms to describe these trends. This remarkable video about Bunker Hill in 1956 examines the struggles of another vulnerable and relatively powerless (mainly elderly) population in a thoroughly segregated Los Angeles. Interestingly, it was filmed just after the nearby working-class Mexican American neighborhood in Chavez Ravine had been acquired by the city through eminent domain. Dodger Stadium would soon rise to replace that ravine and its neighborhood in a saga that would be remembered as one of the most controversial and debated displacements of an entire community in the city’s history. Back on that languishing old Bunker Hill in the 1950s, you don’t have to imagine local residents (many retired) watering their lawns, visiting neighborhood bars, and shopping at Angel’s Flight Pharmacy on yesterday’s relatively sleepy hill; in this film, they are threatened with displacement just more than 60 years ago. If today’s collection of steel and glass skyscrapers representing the center of a world-class super city was the developers’ intention…mission accomplished: https://vimeo.com/332916635

You can find many stories about how the growth of L.A. Airport encouraged or forced displacements in surrounding neighborhoods during past decades, as flight patterns rendered them unlivable. Here is a more recent video highlighting such transitions and displacements, this time in Manchester Square, at the hands of L.A. World Airports: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhNLQKHYjXk

Exploring some California Examples

The following photos will take us into the field to apply some of the concepts and observe some of the trends we have explored in this story.    

Bunker Hill, Los Angeles Today. Residents who starred in that 1956 Bunker Hill film, living within its low-rise Victorian homes, would have never imagined this Bunker Hill. City Hall, which once dominated the horizon, is barely noticeable today, as it seems to hide behind and cower below this towering 21st Century skyline. Decades of extreme landscaping and the sheer size of the skyscrapers requires visitors to walk the streets if they are to notice any hill. Some might argue that this landscape reflects more than half a century of developers’ dreams turned into reality.
Barrio Logan. Visitors accustomed to its world-famous beach communities, tourist attractions, and sprawling sanitized suburbs may not recognize this San Diego scene. Notice the power lines above and scattered weeds, graffiti, and physical barriers that remind us that this is one of the few relatively affordable, working-class neighborhoods that have survived so close to downtown. It is also a traditional and storied Mexican American neighborhood that is celebrated and nurtured by many of its residents and community leaders. But, when it is referred to as “a San Diego Cultural district” and “the best kept secret in San Diego”, some locals become uneasy, recognizing language that attracts new people and developments that can price out the folks who have settled here for so many years.  
Sarcastic Warning Signs of Change. This message rings loud and clear behind Barrio Logan’s busy business district, but it could have appeared in numerous other neighborhoods within a California city near you. The unique character that attracts people to relatively affordable neighborhoods could also drive momentums of change that become unstoppable, displacing the very people who made the place attractive.
Affordable Today, Gentrified Tomorrow? Modest housing in neighborhoods such as San Diego’s Logan Barrio is often crowded with sandwich households, where working-class families can afford to live. Here, multiple wage earners may be required to commute to work and then compete for limited parking spaces when they return home. As housing costs increase, these families could be squeezed out to distant suburbs or exurbs, while highly-educated professionals with higher incomes replace them. You can sense the anxiety among community leaders and read about this tension in local publications.
Conflicting Signals in a Changing Landscape. Oakland has its share of traditionally African American and other ethnic neighborhoods that were previously denied loans and insurance due to redlining, but are now experiencing renaissance. This is just one of many transitional Oakland neighborhoods that were once more affordable, but are experiencing pressures from the flood of professionals in technology and other industries as these workers with higher incomes search for their own definitions of affordable housing. You might still see graffiti, billboards, and bars on the windows, but you will also notice how buildings are being repaired and remodeled. The short walk to cherished Lake Merritt and downtown helps to make this community more attractive, accelerating gentrification.
Oakland Chinatown. Founded in the 1850s, this is one of the oldest Chinatowns in the U.S. Decades of enforced segregation and outright oppression make this an example of an ethnic community fitting the criteria for redlining that helped to keep it working class through most of the 1900s. Starting in the 1930s, redlining insurance agencies warned investors of “lower grades” and “lower classes” such as “Negros” and “Orientals”. It took another hit in the mid-1900s when Interstate 880 was built through it. More recently, a more diverse Asian population has arrived, including refugees from overpriced San Francisco, injecting renewed economic energy. Locals are now debating and struggling with familiar housing affordability and gentrification issues that have become so common throughout the Bay Area.     
Lake Merritt to the Rescue? Renovated landscapes around Oakland’s Lake Merritt can sometimes resemble developers’ urban planning models. Professionals crowded out of San Francisco and the Silicon Valley are attracted to these urban environments that display the results of gentrification. Some working-class residents have been forced out to more affordable distant suburbs.
Conflicting Mission Landscapes. In previous stories on this web site, we’ve noted how the Mission District gained fame as San Francisco’s traditional working-class Latino enclave. More recently, professionals with higher incomes have discovered the attractive personality of this more affordable district. Familiar gentrification conflicts get a lot of attention in these neighborhoods.

We end our story with just one more image from just one more San Francisco district that evolved from despair to stardom in recent decades.    

Transit Converges on a Renovated Landscape. San Francisco’s rebranded East Cut, nurtured by its Community Benefit District, was designed to attract folks who wanted to work and live in The City. This temporary transit center was used while the nearby Salesforce Tower (tallest in The City) and Transbay Transit Center were completed. Convergence of transportation options make this district a convenient home for folks who want to go anywhere without a car. Its transformation from gritty industrial to a vibrant center attracting venture capital took less than three decades. The text below serves as an expanded caption that further connects this last image to our story.

A Portion of South of Market becomes The East Cut
By the late 1800s, this once up-scale San Francisco neighborhood had declined and “lost its cachet”, becoming a “gritty swath of industry and commerce.”  Following the 1906 earthquake, it was described as “warehouses and large business operations catering to seafaring and other industries”. Such descriptions carried through the decades until signs of change began to sprout in the late 1900s. Boosters eventually broke traditional links to its South of Market past and some of its working-class neighbors. By the 21st Century, it was being remade into a high priced mixed-use neighborhood in high demand. It is now (rebranded as “the East Cut”) home to The City’s tallest skyscraper, just a short walk from this intersection. Note how the language used by today’s developers and boosters sounds similar to movements that have been gentrifying neighborhoods in cities across California:

“The East Cut is San Francisco’s fastest-growing and most exciting new neighborhood. For years prior to its rebirth, our area was lumped in with SOMA, South Park, South Beach, the Financial District, or the Embarcadero. But as our neighborhood has redeveloped and come into its own, residents, businesses, and community organizations are embracing a new identity to distinguish our home from the rest of the City.”

“This unique part of San Francisco has experienced significant change and growth in the past few decades, including the removal of the Embarcadero Freeway, the most dense concentration of new home construction in the Bay Area, and the creation of thousands of new jobs. The East Cut is a local effort to unite the Rincon Hill, Folsom Street, and Transbay areas under a new banner and identity befitting our neighborhood. While building a sense of place and pride today, the East Cut also harkens back to a time when our community was an indelible part of San Francisco.”
https://www.theeastcut.org/about-us/

The post Connecting Yesterday’s Redlining to Today’s Gentrification and Displacement first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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Mapping L.A.’s Melting Pot Restaurants https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/mapping-l-a-s-melting-pot-restaurants/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=mapping-l-a-s-melting-pot-restaurants Wed, 27 Jan 2021 19:28:04 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2845 Our continued celebration of California’s unequaled cultural diversity directs us back to the ethnic restaurants of Los Angeles. Here, we are proud to share the extraordinary work of one...

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Our continued celebration of California’s unequaled cultural diversity directs us back to the ethnic restaurants of Los Angeles. Here, we are proud to share the extraordinary work of one of Dr. Jing Liu’s best students: engineer and mapmaker Javier Soliz. Javi used some cutting-edge geospatial techniques from Jing’s class to organize otherwise complicated data into the construction of a series of remarkable maps. Bon appétit while you search for your favorite culinary communities or “hot spots” as Javier Soliz takes center stage with his maps that expose some of L.A.’s diversity.

You may choose to read down this page with its traditional style, but if you would rather view the same story with all the technological marvels of a Story Map, click to this link and you can skip this page: https://arcg.is/inzjD

Melting Pots and Salad Bowls of L.A.: A Culinary and Cultural Study

It’s finally time! You’ve been anticipating it. Imagine your favorite food. Really, close your eyes for a second and imagine it. Its aroma fills the air and brings back happy memories or feelings of home. It’s right there, on its way to your mouth. That first bite. It sends you back. Back to your childhood. Back to your family and friends. Back Home. In that moment you’re connected. We’re all connected. For it’s food that binds us; it’s food that nurtures us; and it’s food that unites us all.

Food is an integral part of culture, so much so, that one of the first things people do when immigrating into a new home is establish communities and restaurants to feed them. The US has long been called the Great American Melting Pot, and no other city on Earth can match the cultural diversity that Los Angeles has to offer.

Whether you’re a newly minted Angeleno, a long time resident, or just someone looking to maximize their experience when visiting this wonderful city, you don’t want to miss all the greatness LA has to offer. Large cities like this offer a world of cultural and culinary experiences; and, if you haven’t explored a city’s hot spots, it’s like you’ve never been there at all.

Ever get an invite to join friends at an Ethiopian restaurant only to realize you’ve never even had Ethiopian food before? Maybe not, but there’s certainly some great foods out there still waiting for you to try. You can learn a lot about the cultural makeup of a city by eating your way through those communities formed around food. You can become a more learned and improved traveler without even needing a passport.

“Culinary Communities” aren’t always labeled on a map in obvious ways like LA’s Koreatown might be, but with some geospatial analysis, you can get a good idea of where they are. Below, we’ll explore what came up for Los Angeles. And, for those geospatial buffs out there, you’ll find more about how these maps were generated towards the end.

Major Culinary Hot Spots Maps
The intuitive way to read the maps below is to see redder spots as having a statistically significant and higher than expected concentration of a given restaurant type than if these restaurants were evenly distributed throughout LA County – These are “Hot Spots.” The areas which are more blue are, similarly, “Cold Spots.” Dark, uncolored areas, don’t necessarily lack restaurants, they’re just areas where the concentration isn’t significantly high or low.

As you peruse these maps, you will notice that they unveil some interesting trends, but they may also encourage even more questions, especially from seasoned locals who are familiar with these places. There are multiple variables to question here, until they can become overwhelming. How does one decide how to categorize each type of ethnic food and its origins? How do we even define the boundaries of a region of the globe, such as what is considered to be in the Middle East? How do we count restaurants that may enthusiastically identify with one particular ethnic group’s cuisine, though they may offer that famous L.A. fusion mix, until it becomes a less genuine version that is Americanized, or California-ized? How might have these restaurants been forced to change as their neighborhoods evolved demographically? Some of these restaurants may have been stranded, now representing cultural enclaves of the past. We will try to address a few of these questions that may arise for each map.

African and Middle Eastern Restaurants. This is a perfect example of how one map can reveal a host of interesting patterns, while leaving many other questions. We might assume that the clusters around downtown L.A. reflect the many theme restaurants that were added as gentrification revived downtown (Spring Street is just one example) into an exciting night-life destination district during the two decades before the COVID pandemic. Think popular culture foodies and hipsters with a lot of disposable cash. Red spots west of downtown may reflect Little Ethiopia, large Jewish populations, and the largest Persian populations in the U.S. around Westwood. The large red clump in Glendale may be enhanced by the largest Armenian population in the U.S. It is not surprising to see these restaurants trending west into the San Fernando Valley. But, African American Los Angeles, mostly south and southwest of downtown doesn’t stand out here and that includes the heart of African American culture: Leimert Park.
American Restaurants. Since defining “American” can be so confounding, especially in California, we’ll leave most of the interpreting up to you here. But it does appear that downtown, Hollywood, West Side, and beach tourist spots stand out. Could that mean that tourists are looking for whatever they might perceive as “American” food and the locals are fine with that?
Asian Restaurants. Though L.A. has a long and diverse Asian history, this has been one of the fastest-growing ethnic groups in southern California during the last few decades. Stand outs seem to be Chinatown just north of downtown and connected red clusters to the northwest, into Hollywood’s Thai Town. You can also see the neighborhoods in the San Gabriel Valley to the east of downtown with today’s largest concentrations of Chinese Americans in the USA. On the West Side, the Japanese American Sawtelle neighborhood next to the 405 connects with Culver City, both hosting a mix of Asian populations and others who enjoy their eateries. Other clusters seem to represent the mixture of Asian and Pacific Islander populations you will find in South Bay neighborhoods. Also note how Little India along Pioneer Blvd in Artesia shows a cluster just west of Buena Park, just within the L.A. County border.
European Restaurants. We’ll let you think about the wide variety of restaurants that might be considered European, and our different perceptions of what is Europe versus the Middle East. Note that these restaurants often cluster around wealthier districts, such as along the Hollywood Hills, the West Side, and beach communities. That gentrified downtown cosmopolitan cluster also shows up again here.
Indian Subcontinent Restaurants. You can see clusters in the typical foodie and tourist zones, but note the two clusters on the northwest (Canoga Park) and southeast (Little India in Artesia) edges of L.A. County. Both are recognized for their large numbers of Indian residents and businesses.
Mexican and other Latin American Restaurants. All Latinos grouped together, with all their diversity, represent the largest general ethnic group in L.A.. The most obvious clusters are evident on this map: around downtown and then across the river into Boyle Heights and roughly along a line that follows Cesar Chavez Avenue through East L.A. Note the clusters toward southeast Los Angeles in Gateway City neighborhoods (Huntington Park, South Gate, and Lynwood) with large majorities of Latinos. The nearby cold spot is somewhat of a mystery since there are also large numbers of Hispanics in those neighborhoods.
Mediterranean Restaurants. This is another difficult category to differentiate from some other types of cuisines. Some clusters may be mixing with Middle Eastern cultures. It appears there is a trend here to cluster in neighborhoods and districts where people might be familiar with and prefer healthier Mediterranean foods and diets and have the money to pay for them. This extends all along Ventura Blvd through the San Fernando Valley.

Digging Deeper – Asian Restaurants
You may be thinking: “isn’t it an oversimplification to lump entire continents of people together?” You may have even seen the work of our friends at The Radical Dot Map and noticed intuitive spatial correlations between ethnicity and the culinary maps above, but also noticed these maps don’t get very granular. ‘Asian’ is pretty broad. There are a lot of distinct cultures lumped into that label. Why do cartographers keep doing that? Well, in part, it’s because even the 2010 census lumped people into 6 groups this way.

High level aggregations like this are easy to understand, but don’t paint the picture with as full a pallet as they could. Below we’ll add some detail to just one of those categories and map out hot spots of different types of Asian Restaurants in LA.

Chinese Restaurants. There are few mysteries here. It is no surprise that Old Chinatown concentrations near downtown and the newer and more extensive San Gabriel Valley Chinese restaurant clusters (home to the largest Chinese American populations in the U.S.) dominate.
Filipino Restaurants. Historic Filipinotown stands out just north of downtown, but there was plenty of debate in the Filipino community about this designation and its boundaries. Though many of the Filipinos who established this neighborhood moved out long ago, some of their eateries remain. You might also find them and their restaurants around that cluster in the eastern San Fernando Valley and in the South Bay, but many Filipinos have settled in much larger numbers much farther away, in places like Chula Vista in San Diego County and Daly City south of San Francisco.
Japanese Restaurants. Since Sushi tends to be relatively expensive for the smaller portions, it is no surprise that some of the best Japanese Restaurants might locate around the people and visitors who can afford them. Otherwise, some of the typical suspects stand out here, including Little Tokyo in downtown and the hipster hangouts that sprang from the urban core’s renewal. Sawtelle’s relatively young Asian and popular culture foodies also converge in that traditional Japanese neighborhood in West Los Angeles.
Korean Restaurants. It’s pretty easy to find Koreatown on this map. This is the largest concentration of people with Korean ancestry in the world outside of Korea. A few smaller clusters speak to the popularity of Korean BBQs and related eateries. If you’re wondering why Orange County’s clusters didn’t show up, it’s because this study only covers L.A. County.
Thai Restaurants. You will find just about every spice you can imagine in the string of restaurants that link Thai Town in Hollywood with downtown. One interesting cluster here is in Long Beach. Though there are numerous Thai restaurants there, many of them are owned and named by Cambodians trying to attract customers who might not be familiar with Cambodian cuisine. Long Beach’s Cambodia Town is the largest in the nation.
Vietnamese Restaurants. You might notice how Vietnamese restaurants tend to cluster around Chinese and other Asian restaurants, suggesting these populations are often found together. That seems to be true in the San Gabriel Valley. Again, note that these maps only cover L.A. County. That is why the largest Vietnamese population in the world outside of Vietnam (Little Saigon in Westminster and surroundings, Orange County) doesn’t show up as a cluster here.

Map Wrap Up Notes from Javier

Those of you not from LA may not know of the late, beloved culinary critic Johnathan Gold.  Gold was loved and welcome at any table in any neighborhood as if he were an old friend or family. He brought cultures together by introducing them to each other’s food and won a Pulitzer Prize doing it.  He had a profound appreciation for the culture and history of LA.  

Think of all the divisiveness you see these days. Now, imagine instead, if we were all a little more like Gold.  All you have to do is grow your comfort zone a little and explore your city.  Post-COVID, if you’re fortunate enough to be near Los Angeles, you could take a food tour and Eat Your Way Through LA!  You could plan to visit a handful of places in a given area each month and by this time next year you’ll find yourself much more appreciative of the food and culture of your great city. There are plenty of apps that will help you do this.  Use an app like Swarm to make it easy to Remember Everywhere you’ve been and want to go.  Or create a blog. It’s amazing how many foodie-followers you can get.  Get out there and expand your horizons.  The more we’re all a bit more like Gold, the more our diversity multiplies our strength as a community.

Appendix

You can see how this evolved into a project that demonstrates the power and limitations of maps as much as it illustrates the distributions of ethnic restaurants and cultures in L.A. County. We are reminded that maps are only as reliable and trustworthy as the data used and the people who make them and that these technologies are improving by the day. If you are interested in more details about how the data, science, and technology were molded into these cartographic works of art, continue reading through the next sections.         

About the Data
The restaurant’s data used was pulled from Foursquare’s Places Database – a comprehensive dataset spanning 190+ countries and 50 territories.  The data set is updated daily as our world is constantly evolving. This analysis was done in December 2020.    

The Foursquare Places Database has a rich set of attributes you could use to understand the world around you.  This analysis only needed a few of them:  the restaurant’s location, the restaurant’s categorization, and information telling us if the restaurants were part of a national chain.  

Independent, locally owned and operated locations are more representative of a community than national chains like McDonald’s or Subway; so, all chain locations were removed. Certain other categories like Dessert Shops, Bakeries, and Coffee Shops were removed as they weren’t unique enough to any particular culture. The remaining thousands of locations tell a very detailed story and could fall into one of 350 different categories related to food. These locations were aggregated up using personal judgement into the major categories seen above in the first set of maps.  For example Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, and Sri Lankan Restaurants were combined into a single “Indian Subcontinent” Grouping.  For the second set of maps diving deeper into Asian restaurants, most of the detailed categories were left as is, with little aggregation. Details on these recategorizations can be found in this gist. Once recategorized, this data can easily be fed into your favorite geoanalysis tool.

About the Geospatial Hot Spot Analysis
All of the above maps were built using ArcGIS Pro’s Optimized Hot Spot Analysis readily available in its Spatial Statistics toolbox. This tool aggregates point data, the location of restaurants of a given culinary category in this case, into the cells of a fishnet grid or hexagon polygon layer. These generated polygons are then compared to their neighbors and cells are categorized as being either statistically not significant or as being significant “hot spots,” or “cold spots.”    

The categorization algorithm running underneath is the Getis-Ord Gi* statistic. In our analysis, the default fishnet cell size was chosen to be 500m by 500m and a bounding polygon capturing commercially feasible areas for restaurants was supplied. The algorithm evaluates whether a given fishnet cell can be considered as a statistically significant hotspot or cold spot by comparing restaurant distributions to theoretical random distributions generated within the supplied bounding polygon and calculating a z-score and a p-value for each cell. For statistically significant (evaluated by p-value) positive z-scores, the larger the z-score is, the more concentrated restaurants are in that area (hot spot). For statistically significant (evaluated by p-value) negative z-scores, the smaller the z-score is, the more intense the clustering of low values (cold spot).  

It should be noted that not all categories had enough locations to produce reliable results. ArcGIS Pro’s Optimized Hot Spot Analysis tool requires certain threshold numbers of input locations. This is why there are far more categories of restaurant available than maps shown above.  

About The Authors

Javier Soliz does data engineering and analysis in service of revenue generation as a Sales Engineer for Foursquare Labs Inc.. 

William (Bill) Selby is a Geographer and lover of the rich culture of California. He is the author of Rediscovering the Golden State. More here.

Jing Liu is a professor of Geography and GIS (Geographic Information Science) at Santa Monica College. She is also on the team of Rediscovering the Golden State. More here.

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Cultural Tour of Los Angeles: Eat Your Way through L.A. https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/cultural-tour-of-los-angeles-eat-your-way-through-l-a/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cultural-tour-of-los-angeles-eat-your-way-through-l-a Sun, 06 Dec 2020 22:42:36 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2398 A few decades ago, demographic data began to reveal how California was becoming the most culturally diverse state and Los Angeles the most culturally diverse metropolitan area in the...

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A few decades ago, demographic data began to reveal how California was becoming the most culturally diverse state and Los Angeles the most culturally diverse metropolitan area in the history of the world. Before you dismiss these as overstatements, examine the statistics; we highlight these facts especially in Chapters 7 and 8 of our publication, Rediscovering the Golden State: California Geography. It’s the largest and most diverse city within this state that now has no majority ethnic group. No other place on Earth has assembled more people affiliated with such a large assortment of ethnic groups, languages, and cultures. Throwing these people together is a cultural experiment of monumental proportions.

Looking across the City and around the World. More than 4 million people within L.A. city limits and nearly 20 million in the greater L.A. region combine to make the most diverse population ever assembled within and around one metropolitan area. Follow us into some of these neighborhoods if you want to tour the world without leaving L.A.   

Today’s L.A., Tomorrow’s World?
As developing communication and transportation technologies continue to dissolve global borders (at least in the long term), we know that such interaction and diversity foretells humanity’s future; today’s L.A. represents a glimpse into that future. So, does California’s and L.A.’s cultural experiment represent a beacon of light, a warning sign, or something between those extremes as we imagine humanity’s future on this planet? 

Celebrating the Bizarre in Pasadena. The annual Doo Dah Parade, with such entries as the Radioactive Chickenheads, brings unusual cultures together to poke fun at traditional holiday parades. Here, the annual tortilla tossing targets nearly every parade entry, including local band members nice enough to provide entertainment. (In June, 2021, L.A. journalist Gustavo Arellano summarized the long, strange history of tortilla tossing in California. He was motivated by a racially-charged tortilla flipping incident following a CIF championship basketball game in San Diego. It became an unfortunate lesson about how a few clueless knuckleheads could disgrace and disqualify an entire school (Coronado High) and permanently ruin other Californians’ attempts to celebrate the ridiculous.) Pasadena has its own wealth of cultures and neighborhoods to explore, but it lies just beyond the boundaries of our one-day tour.

Tasting the World in a Day
More than 20 years ago, we started a project that would help shed light on how L.A.’s people and landscapes are reflections of our world, how the world is being changed by L.A., and how this great experiment is progressing. We repeatedly bused up to 50 people through L.A., stopping to survey specific neighborhoods and cultures. Nearly two decades ago, scholar Lisa Harrison designed our first guidebook by piecing together the stacks of articles and research projects we used to inform us about each location. Here is the expanded, refined, and updated 2020 version. This was and continues to be our attempt to experience, examine, and better understand as many different cultures, neighborhoods, and landscapes as possible in one L.A. day. Call it what you want; we call it See the World in a Different Way: Eat Your Way through L.A.

Shadows of Asian Traditions? The annual Chinese Mid-Autumn Moon Festival is celebrated in Rosemead, complete with the blocked main thoroughfare offering a variety of Asian food, mooncakes, and plenty of local entertainment. As with so many cultures, older Asians hope to hold on to some of their diverse customs and traditions by encouraging young people to practice and celebrate them. The San Gabriel Valley is home to the largest Chinese population in the United States. About 75% of Rosemead’s population is Asian or Pacific Islander. This also lies just beyond the boundaries of our one-day cultural expedition.

Reexamining Cultures within Landscapes of Reality and Vice Versa
This cultural tour includes a lot of history, but has been updated to just before the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic. It is intended to unveil the genuine working parts of L.A., the rich cultures and ethnic foods championed by its people, and the sometimes hidden stories about these cultures and neighborhoods that are too often overlooked in the media. Throughout the years, our theme has been reworked and recast by local food critics and cultural researchers from many disciplines with somewhat different perspectives and spins, while others have even used our title, all recognizing and celebrating these unparalleled opportunities to learn about different people, cultures, neighborhoods, and cuisines. During 2020, we watched as the COVID-19 pandemic, social upheavals, and the resulting wildly erratic economic environments closed some of the businesses we visited here and began rearranging  these urban landscapes in surprising (and often heartbreaking) ways that offer new learning opportunities.

Inspiring a State of Jazz. Jazz music and culture is evident across California in the form of at least 30 annual jazz festivals and dozens of jazz bands and clubs that can be found in towns and cities in nearly every corner of the state. Here, in the annual Long Beach Mardi Gras parade, young jazz musicians display their talents while “preserving jazz for tomorrow”.  

Historic Diversity Spreads Outward 
To say that L.A. has grown to become the planet’s most diverse metropolitan area is now an over-simplistic understatement. This is why we don’t have the room in this guide or the time in one day to visit all the cultures and neighborhoods that combine to make this complex conurbation. For instance, we will miss the largest concentration of Vietnamese people outside Asia in Little Saigon, Orange County. We will miss the largest concentration of Cambodian people outside Asia in Cambodia Town, Long Beach and the too-distant, but renowned “Little India” business district along Pioneer Blvd in Artesia. We will also miss the largest concentration of Chinese people in North America (now in the San Gabriel Valley). And we don’t have time to visit the largest concentration of Armenians outside Armenia, centered in Glendale. And did you know there are more Pacific Islanders in L.A. County (especially concentrated in South Bay cities) than anywhere beyond the islands? Many of these cultures and their neighborhoods (such as Leimert Park, the epicenter of African American culture in L.A.) have been the focus of separate stories on our web site, but they are just outside the boundaries of this route.  

California Mardi Gras. Continuing with the annual Long Beach Mardi Gras Parade, it is just one of the many relatively smaller-scale events that attempt to recreate the colorful and flamboyant New Orleans experience in California. Unfortunately, Long Beach (second-largest city in L.A. County and highly acclaimed for its own impressively diverse cultures) also lies just beyond our one-day tour.

Anchored Ethnic Enclaves
Cultural geographers and anthropologists have sometimes debated whether some of these neighborhoods might be considered ghettos, ethnic enclaves, or a little of both. You might be challenged to make your own assessments in each case, knowing that an ethnic enclave is usually a neighborhood populated by people who voluntarily surround themselves with those who share similar and familiar cultures, all living within their personal comfort zones. In contrast, outside forces (such as discrimination and lack of economic opportunities) tend to enclose people into ghettos, where they are forced to live in poverty. As one example of an enclave, Southern California and specifically L.A. is also home to the largest Persian population outside of Iran. Concentrated on the West Side, you will notice their footprints (representing diverse religions and cultures) especially along Westwood Blvd in Westwood. Just as other ethnic and cultural groups have adopted local nicknames, many Iranians have even used the terms Irangeles or Tehrangeles or Irangelinos to reaffirm their connections to L.A. Many of these neighborhoods are just a little too far away from our one-day driving, walking, and dining trail, but they and many others have at least earned a shout out and a separate visit.

Pipe Bands Competition. The Scottish pipe band culture is also alive and well across California. Each year, pipe bands from around the Golden State and other western states converge at the Queen Mary in Long Beach to display their talents. You may notice some surprisingly diverse participants who have few or no ancestral ties to Scotland, but who have attached to these Scottish traditions that thrive in California. 

Concentrations of the Largest and the Oldest
Fortunately, we do have time to visit neighborhoods that have been home to the largest single concentrations of Koreans, Central Americans, and Mexicans beyond their original homelands, the first official African town in the state, L.A.’s oldest Little Tokyo, Chinatown, Greek, and Jewish districts, and a wealth of intermixing cultures along the way. Join us on this more “compact” journey by vehicle and on foot that should take at least a full day, including your sampling of ethnic foods. Though our complete one-day tour is designed for quick stops, you could easily consume an entire day surveying and experiencing each of these neighborhoods and business districts. Look over our guide before you decide.

Celebrating Scottish Culture. The annual ScotsFestival in Long Beach attracts people from around the country who want to recall and preserve Scottish culture, both real and imagined. The Scottish population in California is about 500,000, by far the largest of any state, and roughly 79,000 in L.A. County, but there are far more people with some Scottish ancestry. The food, fun, spirited male and female athletic competitions, day-long dancing competitions, music, and other entertainment all add to the atmosphere of this well-organized celebration. It is one of hundreds of examples of California cultures that we will miss on our brief one-day tour.     

Discovering and Experiencing Change
The COVID-19 pandemic and social upheavals that cast economic chaos across California in 2020 did more than break hearts and kill dreams in these neighborhoods. They left new opportunities to do fresh research and make new discoveries about who and what has disappeared or survived in a brutal sink or swim economy and landscape that rewards resilience and punishes those lacking the financial cushions to weather such storms. Note the changes since we updated our tour (just before 2020). Can you sense a greater disparity between the haves and have nots, or has the collapse of long-established landmarks opened doors to new residents and entrepreneurs with fresh perspectives?

Preserving History for the Future. Now that you’ve got a taste of the ScotsFestival and Scottish culture, remember that it is just one of hundreds of festivals and other events in towns and cities that celebrate California’s hundreds of cultures throughout the year.  Folks in each culture enjoy recalling their traditions, while assimilating or blending in ways that will lead toward success in California’s incredibly diverse and competitive twenty-first century salad bowl or melting pot. We can’t visit them all in one day, but you are encouraged to break out of your tribe and your comfort zone and explore on your own after completing this guided tour.

Let’s Get Started with Caution and our Curiosity
You are warned not to try the tour from about 3-7 pm on weekdays as you will be overcome by L.A.’s notorious traffic monster, though that inconvenience has become a possibility almost any time. You can try public transit, since many of the stops are along corridors, but this may become a complicated and frustrating experience in such a sprawling city with a transportation system mainly designed to get people to work or school or specific events. And finally, the directions here are subject to obvious changes caused by construction, redirection of traffic flows, and your own instincts about how to stay safe and avoid trouble and delays. Use your best instincts to find parking; some stops are more challenging than others, so read all parking signs carefully. Put on your walking shoes, your seat belt, and bring your curiosity and appetite to explore the cultures and cuisines of L.A. and our world as these landscapes speak to us. Simply click through the 25 pages in their proper order as we guide you through the tour.      

Latin American Connections. Traditional Oaxacan and Aztec art, altars, and culture are displayed in these outdoor exhibits at L.A.’s Music Center, reminding us that California was once part of Mexico and that Latinos (Hispanics) now represent the plurality major ethnic group in the state. Though limited time only allows us to pass by this location on our tour, note how these public spaces connect downtown’s Music Center with Grand Park to host a non-stop series of festivals, displays, concerts, rallies, and other cultural events that help define the most diverse metropolitan area in the world. 
Epicenter of Activity and Diversity. There is so much to experience and learn from the history, architecture, and cultures in downtown L.A. that specific, single-themed walking tours can take a day. While organizations such as the L.A. Conservancy attempt to preserve it, the downtown core has been rebuilt and revitalized to attract every cultural and political group imaginable, such as this massive women’s march that jammed participants into several blocks with the theme, Democracy and Justice. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, it was difficult to walk through downtown without encountering one group or another celebrating their philosophies and perspectives on life (or what life could be) in California. After such a pandemic setback, it would take some time for that momentum to return.

The post Cultural Tour of Los Angeles: Eat Your Way through L.A. first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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