Resources - Rediscovering the Golden State https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com California Geography Wed, 01 Oct 2025 22:33:00 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 149360253 Cal Naturalists Invade Yosemite https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/cal-naturalists-invade-yosemite/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cal-naturalists-invade-yosemite Tue, 10 Jun 2025 00:49:24 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4923 Follow our UC California Naturalists experiential learning adventures through and around Yosemite National Park for one week as we explore and research natural history within some of the most...

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Follow our UC California Naturalists experiential learning adventures through and around Yosemite National Park for one week as we explore and research natural history within some of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth. I will play the role of student and occasional teacher during our intense daily dawn-evening action-packed learning experiences from April 12-18, 2025, when we earned our official California Naturalist Certificates.

Why Join the Naturalists?

We can’t survive without access to the fresh air, water, food, shelter, spiritual enrichment, aesthetics, personal restoration, and nature’s other essentials that allow us to celebrate life on this third planet from the sun. Our very physical and mental health depend on nature. But our popular cultures have detached us from Earth’s natural systems and cycles, the very forces and processes that rule our world, resulting in perilous dysfunctions that even AI cannot treat or resolve. And have you checked the news lately? Our nature deficit disorders are having tragic consequences that threaten humans, millions of other species, and the very future of our planet.

The UC California Naturalist statewide natural resource education and service program is coming to the rescue! This extraordinary program fosters “a diverse community of naturalists and promotes stewardship of California’s natural resources through education and service.” They draw you in with refreshing truth telling: “We cannot protect and restore California’s unique ecology without an environmentally literate, engaged public.” … and … “Becoming a naturalist offers a chance to explore nature and deepen your understanding of how nature works.” And then they make you offers you can’t refuse: “Are you interested in nature? Do you love CA’s diverse ecosystems? Embark on an immersive adventure with experts. Deepen your understanding of ecology and forge lasting friendships. This course has graduated career starters through retirees, all learning together to become a community of Certified California Naturalists.” How could we resist this magical week in Yosemite?

Follow Us on this Magical Natural History Tour

Join me on this journey as I share some of our day-to-day discoveries from the experts in the field who live this stuff. Images and excerpts from more than 32 pages of field notes prove that, even after leading hundreds of field classes and field trips with thousands of my students and colleagues over more than three decades, we and I will never stop learning. (The stories here are taken from my personal field notes and some occasional background research. All photos are mine and are not edited or manipulated in any way.) Let your curiosity fly like the clouds and wings over Half Dome in this Yosemite natural history expedition.   

Chris Cameron was our organizer, leader, and master instructor for these exceptional learning experiences. Without Chris, a one-of-a-kind tour guide and educator, we wouldn’t be able to retrace our steps because there wouldn’t be any. He demonstrated phenomenal skills in gathering seasoned professionals and curious students together to learn within nature’s living laboratories. And his people skills are the icing on the cake!    

Each day of our expedition gets its own page in this story; simply click to the page that matches the day and/or subject. You are encouraged to follow me chronologically to soak in the full benefits. Here’s how it’s all organized:

Day/Page One (Saturday, 4-12-2025): From the Central Valley up to ECCO in Oakhurst
Day/Page Two (Sunday, 4-13-2025): Geology, Creation, and More than 100 Million Years
Day/Page Three (Monday, 4-14-2025): Healthy Forests and Roaring Falls
Day/page Four (Tuesday, 4-15-2025): Cliffs, Bats, Fires, Technology and Botany
Day/Page Five (Wednesday, 4-16-2025): Following the Trail to Native Americans and American Settlers
Day/Page Six (Thursday 4-17-2025): Grazing, Logging, and Hunting, Oh My!
Day/Page Seven (Friday 4-18-2025): Sharing Our Discoveries

Day One (Saturday, 4-12-2025): From the Central Valley up to ECCO in Oakhurst:

A drive north along Hwy 41 from Fresno eventually takes you out of the Central Valley, which shines as the country’s most productive agricultural landscapes. This sprawling valley is vital in making California the number one agricultural state in the nation, as the state generates well more than $50 billion income per year from farm products.     

Tesoro Viejo is a newly planned community that has sprouted from valley grasslands at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. 

As the road gradually slopes up toward Sierra Nevada foothills, we find ourselves surrounded by open grasslands that recall the vast prairies that once dominated the Golden State’s inland valleys before the Spanish arrived. You will notice cattle grazing on pastoral rolling hills, landscapes occasionally interrupted and sliced by serpentine streams and rivers meandering from east to west, out of higher elevations and into the valley. (These lush narrow riparian strips are what remains (less than 10%) of the broad gallery forests that once extended on both sides of streams and rivers flowing out of the Sierra Nevada.) Today’s hills turn verdant green by April and erupt into rainbow displays of wildflowers such as lupine. But the grasses and flowers will soon dehydrate to the golden browns of punishing summer drought, leaving their seeds in parched soils, waiting for next winter’s rains and next spring’s renewed fantastical displays.

Upon entering the Tesoro Viejo “Hub”, you will be greeted with displays designed to anticipate the future of this growing development and to convince visitors to buy in. 
Here’s how they attract folks looking for activities and new lifestyles with plenty of elbow room.

But another invader has recently rivaled the seasonal nonnative grasses on these gentle slopes at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains: humans and their developments. Developers are gobbling up some of these landscapes and attracting people who want to escape urban crowds, chaos, and traffic. “Build it and they will come” continues to spread across these landscapes that tourists have been passing by for decades on their way to the high country. Entire wannabe self-sufficient communities have been sprouting and extending over the grasslands and oak woodlands. And the changes are not coming without controversy. As these ecosystems are scraped up and paved, some locals are watching their reasons for living here disappear, while recent arrivals find relative peace and quiet in their perceived bucolic settings. Talk of limited water and other resources, habitat destruction, loss of open spaces, pollution, land values, affordable housing, and increasing traffic congestion is replacing the traditional agrarian discourse and cultures. Such noticeable changes are stretching and then redefining our perceptions of wildland-urban interfaces. The end of this world as we knew it may be just one more development away.

Who do you think these displays at Tesoro Viejo are designed to entice? The image here is all about image. And it’s just more than an hour to the Yosemite National Park south entrance. The English translation is “old treasure”, but the developers prefer to use “ancient” treasure. 
Real or imaginary? Sprawling grasslands and rolling foothills await; now, all you need are the toys, after you are convinced to invest. Inside the “Hub”, the restaurant and community meeting areas are just behind us.
Tesoro Viejo is one of numerous planned communities that have been developing their way along the base of the Sierra Nevada. But locals and newcomers are noticing increasing traffic congestion and other problems that accompany such growth.    
Making our way up to the foothills and tablelands along Hwy 41, we see plenty of open land for sale, just waiting for the next developer with deep pockets. 
Bucolic rolling hills emerge above the valley as we continue north along Hwy 41. Afternoon fair weather cumulus clouds boil up over the distant high country.
As we approach 2,000 feet above sea level, where it is slightly cooler and wetter, we notice oak woodland plant communities. 
At just above 2,000 feet, dry pines and other species join the oaks to cover the hills. In the distance, notice how the hotter and drier southwest-facing slopes (facing toward the afternoon sun) support fewer trees, while the cooler, moister northeast-facing slopes (facing away from afternoon sun) are lusher. In the foreground, the house is surrounded by a mix of native and nonnative species. The fire hydrant reminds us that we are in a classic wildland-urban interface that is more wild than urban, where annual wildfires threaten for at least a few months each year.
Native American and Gold Rush history are celebrated in numerous towns scattered around Sierra Nevada foothills. This is in Coarsegold along Hwy 41 on the way to Oakhurst.  

Once we get up above about 1,000’ elevation, where a little more precipitation falls and temperatures are a bit cooler, an assortment of scattered oak trees pops up above the ground cover. At about 2,000’, the woodlands thicken and diversify to include gray pine and other drought-tolerant trees. These scraggly pines with long, grayish needles and big cones often appear bent and twisted as though they were dancing through the night and were suddenly frozen in a pose by the morning light, waiting for summer’s fire or winter’s first merciful rehydrating showers. As we progress higher, slopes tend to steepen and we notice mixed pine forests as we look up toward snow in the distant high country. (We will revisit Sierra Nevada’s vegetation zones in more detail during the next few days.) We drop down into the town of Oakhurst (elevation 2,274’), nestled in its little valley that many consider the gateway to Yosemite. Traveling up and a little farther north, we finally turn off Hwy 41 and will settle, hang our hats, and share tasty meals at ECCO each night, which is a pretty typical option for tour and educational groups looking for base camps in and near Yosemite: “The Episcopal Conference Center Oakhurst (ECCO) has been serving the religious, educational and non-profit conference and retreat needs of Fresno, Madera, Mariposa and the rest of California’s Central Valley since 1982.”       

We are at about 3,000 feet above sea level, looking down at Oakhurst, which is nestled in its little Oakhurst Valley along the Fresno River. Notice how the woodlands have become denser as we approach higher elevations. In the distance, afternoon cumulus clouds pop up above the snow-covered Sierra Nevada high country. 
At ECCO, arriving students congregate around a road kill (which happens to be a male California quail) that we will use to attract whatever wildlife might roam onto the property.
This field camera (on the right) should capture images of any curious or hungry critters that wander into view. 

This is where we can hear Yosemite calling from just several miles away. The rolling landscapes in and around ECCO (about 3,100’ ASL) is populated with mostly open oak and pine woodland. The deciduous oak trees are just beginning to sprout by mid-April, careful to avoid any late-season freezes. A giant pond with a fountain demands attention, decorating the property and attracting more than our senses. Depending on the season, an assortment of waterfowl and other wildlife visit or live around the water (more than 100 species of birds have been recorded there), demonstrating animal behaviors that deserve a line or two in our field notebooks.

Chris Cameron (“naturalist guiding in Yosemite, teaching UC California Naturalist programs, and sparking immersive nature experiences”) introduces participants to the program, kicking off our week of extreme experiential learning in and around Yosemite. 

Wild turkeys are particularly entertaining as they dive out of their trees (where they roost at night to avoid predators) early in the morning and trot around during the day. Their toe-walking and dragging one foot in front of the other leaves an arrowhead-like trail. Turkeys are not native to California, but numerous attempts to introduce them finally became successful so that their numbers multiplied since the 1960s until they now total about 250,000 in the state. These omnivores mate and lay their eggs during spring. Gestation takes about a month and they are most vulnerable to predators (such as coyote, bobcats, foxes, some birds, and domesticated animals) after hatching. Adults may become nuisances around humans as they show aggression with their flapping and pecking; their droppings also get pretty messy. They’ve been known to damage gardens and attack their reflections in windows and on the sides of cars.  

Wild turkeys trot around the ECCO property.

The turkeys remind us that every species of plant and animal, every landscape, rock, cloud, water drop, and weather event have captivating natural history stories to tell. Informative and useful narratives grow from research that connects all of us to our natural world. We can see why this is just one of the naturalist programs across the US. Master instructor Chris Cameron started our course by summarizing how we celebrate biodiversity with environmental literacy, scientific and social understanding, by honing our interpretive skills, and practicing collaborative conservation. We reviewed our state’s bioregions and geomorphic provinces (from page 29 in our required California Naturalist Handbook), which coincide with the physiographic regions we have explored in numerous stories on this website and in my publications. And we recognized how the California Floristic Province, a biological hotspot with its thousands of species that include a large percentage of endemics, is experiencing a biodiversity crises as increasing numbers of those unique plants and animals are threatened with extinction. We recognize how naturalists’ work has become crucial as we observe, communicate, and act to build essential links between scientists and the average person. After dinner, our first day and evening ended with my presentation that summarized some fascinating properties of water and the weather patterns and climates that rule over our plant communities, topics we have highlighted on this website and in my recent California Sky Watcher book and statewide tour.      

The pond at ECCO is the center of attention, attracting diverse wildlife species from around the region and visitors from beyond.

Click (below) to the next page and day.

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Fire in the Redwoods https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/fire-in-the-redwoods/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fire-in-the-redwoods Thu, 19 Sep 2024 22:32:12 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4613 They’ve lived for thousands of years. They’re the tallest and largest trees on Earth. And now these majestic giants are burning. Follow me as I guide you through California’s...

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They’ve lived for thousands of years. They’re the tallest and largest trees on Earth. And now these majestic giants are burning. Follow me as I guide you through California’s endemic redwood forests to learn how they might recover—or perish—following unprecedented wildfires.  

Fire has been our friend for millennia. Humans have enjoyed the benefits of controlled fires used to cook our food, heat our spaces, comfort us as we sat around our campfires, provide light and protection, clear and manage landscapes, burn waste, and power our engines. By contrast, many of us have also been terrorized by the unforgettable life-and-death experience of getting too close to an out-of-control blaze. That’s when capricious fire can be likened to an unpredictable vicious predator that breaks out of its cage, or a scene from one of those Jurassic Park movies when Tyrannosaurus rex crashes through its confining barriers. Suddenly, anything goes and we are at the mercy of what we thought we had under our control. Fire is another example of how the very nature that nurtures us can suddenly morph into the misadventure or calamity that kills us. Humans’ relationship with fire has always been complex, but it would be difficult to imagine a place where this partnership has been more misunderstood, abused, researched, and reevaluated, than in California during the last several decades.

The 33-foot (10 meter) diameter “Pioneer Cabin Tree” at Calaveras Big Trees State Park had a big fire scar that was further hollowed out in the 1880s to create this passageway. Cars eventually followed until they were eventually banned here, but it was already too late. The giant sequoia grew weaker over the years until a winter storm finally blew it down in January, 2017. Years before its demise, when I took this photo, I was thinking that this was another example of how we can sometimes love our redwood trees to death.      

During the 20th Century, we began to better understand how wildfires play such vital roles in shaping our Mediterranean ecosystems and landscapes. We reluctantly acknowledged that they must occasionally and necessarily revisit our grasslands, woodlands, and even some forests, and how Native Americans, for thousands of years, encouraged fire’s eminence with their control burns. Until the late 1900s, much of the timber industry and some environmentalists ignored these realities, especially in our most cherished forests that include ancient redwoods. After all, forest fires can destroy beautiful trees and valuable timber destined to become forest products. The infernos kill precious wildlife and leave ugly open scars and charred landscapes that remind us of fire’s terror, death, and destruction. But we now better understand how, even in our redwood forests, wildfires establish delicate successional cycles, balances that must be maintained if California’s ecosystems are to survive and prosper.        

Your author poses for this photo with the big trees at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park.

We can’t be blamed for the obsessive love we have shown for what remains of redwoods that weren’t cut down and sent to the mills. (Less than 5% of our old-growth coast redwood forests were spared from the saws.) California’s two redwood species represent the largest and tallest trees on Earth. On the surface, these majestic forests appear to be the last places where you would expect, much less want, to see a fire. So, we did our best to keep fire away from these stately behemoths that can grow to more than 2,000 years old. But it was fire suppression and other human interference (such as the introduction of volatile nonnatives) that set the stage for recent unprecedented conflagrations in California forests. The megadrought that extended through the first two decades of this century (enhanced by climate change on steroids) provided the blowtorch on landscapes with abundant accumulated fuel to burn. Scientists and nature lovers looked on in horror and then heartbreak as many of our ancient redwood forests were incinerated.

This display at Sequoia/Kings Canyon shows how our two redwood species grow in very different environments across the state.
This map from Save the Redwoods League displays the distribution of coast redwoods and giant sequoias.    

The largest, hottest, and most destructive wildfires in California history swept through from 2015-2021. But the long-term effects of these intense burns in our redwood forests have been quite different, depending on the contrasting species and plant communities: Giant Sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum) along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada and Coast Redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) along the north coast fog belt.

As winter storms drift off the Pacific and encounter the Sierra Nevada, air is forced to rise up western slopes, where it cools and condenses, dropping abundant orographic precipitation. Heavy snows are common, which gradually melt into the deep sandy soils as spring advances toward summer. Giant sequoias rely on this meltwater into the summer drought. Occasional summer thunderstorms might also briefly interrupt the seasonal droughts, but they are not such reliable sources of water. However, those summer storms also produce lightning that ignites fires in Sierra Nevada forests, producing a fire season that peaks during the hotter summers and often lingers until the first early winter-season storms can douse them.

I’ve sometimes used this photo to show how towering sequoias seem to be stretching up toward the towering afternoon cumulus clouds. The billowing clouds could produce quick downpours to soak the forest in the middle of summer’s drought, or “dry lightning” capable of igniting wildfires. Such weather patterns earned attention in my new book, The California Sky Watcher.        

Following decades of fire suppression and accumulating fuels since the 1800s, and the introduction and invasion of highly combustible nonnative grasses and other species, a devastating megadrought plagued California. It started around 2000 and lasted for more than two decades. (These weather patterns and their impacts have been highlighted in multiple stories on this website and in my new book, The California Sky Watcher.) Though this historic dry period was punctuated by a few brief wet episodes and floods fueled by powerful atmospheric rivers, gradually warming temperatures and extreme summer heat waves quickly evaporated water out of our ecosystems and into the atmosphere with increasing vapor pressure deficits. Weather stations across the state repeatedly recorded their hottest days, months, and seasons, breaking all-time records. Bark beetles and other opportunists exploited the moment, further weakening native species and ecosystems already under stress.  

Sequoias grow along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada from just above 4,000-7,000 feet above sea level. This grove rises above other more xeric plant communities and faces west, down toward lower elevation foothills and eventually to the haze and smog in the distant Central Valley.    

From 2015-2021, at least six major fires raged through 85% of Sierra Nevada’s giant sequoia groves. The most destructive was the Castle Fire in August 2020, which killed 7,500-10,600 giant sequoias or about 10-15% of all Sequoiadendron giganteum on Earth. In September, 2021, the Complex Fire killed 1,300-2,400 giants and the Windy Fire destroyed another 900-1,300 of our cherished ancients that can grow up to 3,000 years old. All three named wildfires were ignited by lightning. By the end of 2021, nearly 20% of all giant sequoias had burned to death within only seven years. And now, it is feared that denuded ecosystems and other stresses could kill more fire-ravaged trees as we witness delayed mortality rates. I remember watching Christy Brigham (Chief of Resources Management and Science at Kings and Sequoia National Parks) on national network TV, as the media interviewed her in their stories about the devastating fires. Years earlier, Christy had worked with my students, helping to guide my field classes into her research. Fast forward and there she was again, the celebrity ranger and scientist under the Sequoias, attempting to educate a national audience about the importance of managing our forests and limiting climate change so that we might save what unique and precious resources remain.                       

Scars from a series of ancient fires are evident in giant trees at Calaveras Big Trees State Park.
This downed sequoia at Calaveras Big Trees has been hollowed out by fires, and more recently, as a tunnel passage for visitors.

We have learned how our giant sequoia forests, like other California plant communities, thrive with occasional wildfires. Older, tall sequoias have thick, fibrous, fire-resistant bark and they drop lower limbs as they grow so that fires can’t leap up from below into their towering crowns. Heat from the fires below encourages seed dispersal into recently-cleared soils. Over the millennia, these forest floors were regularly cleared by occasional ground fires that consumed accumulated fuels and took out smaller trees before they could act as chimneys to guide the flames higher. After more than a century of fire suppression, we realized our mistakes. But when the megadrought hit, it was already too late and it will take decades to reverse these trends that humans have set in motion. And so, the ancient giants burn and die.

Moving to the Coast

This is Big Basin Redwoods State Park years before the August, 2020 fire. You might sense that we are closer to air masses (blowing in from the Pacific Ocean) that nurture coast redwood. Note the thick, green understory.
These coast redwood trees and forests at Big Basin look and feel quite different when compared to Sierra Nevada’s sequoia groves. The trees tend to be slimmer and grow a bit taller. Milder microclimates, with heavy winter rains and summer fog drip, keep the forest moist and green. For many decades, visitors knew them as cool, damp, shady refuges without fire. 

Coast redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) also benefit from heavy orographic precipitation (up to 100 inches/yr.) that falls when winter storms sweep off the Pacific and encounter coastal slopes. But snow is rare in these moist and cool, but milder climates. Instead, these forests remain damp through most of the summer drought season by catching coastal fog that drifts off the Pacific with the cool sea breeze and then drips down to the forest floor. Since these thick, shady forests appear relatively green and lush throughout the year, and they hold some the greatest biomass of any California terrestrial plant community, it is more difficult to imagine how fires could be such important players. But they are, especially after drought years capped by hot summers.

This is exactly what happened in August of 2020, when yet another summer heatwave sucked remaining precious moisture out of the redwood forests near the end of the megadrought. A series of thunderstorms with dry lightning drifted across California, igniting wildfires in already parched plant communities. The August lightning teamed up with the ongoing megadrought to make 2020 the worst wildfire year in state history. Nearly 10,000 fires burned over 4.4 million acres (about 4% of the entire state).

Coast redwood groves at Big Basin were so revered, they were celebrated with our first state park. Fire was usually considered the enemy.
This is just one display that greeted curious visitors to Big Basin before the 2020 fire destroyed all the structures. Which wildlife do you think survived? Four years after the fire, many of these animals have already returned.
National media sent out images such as this one to show the world how fire was burning through ancient coast redwoods in Big Basin during the CZU Lightning Complex Fire of August, 2020. This photo was taken by Max Whittaker of the New York Times.

Multiple ignitions grew into three blazes that combined to form the CZU Lightning Complex Fire, which ripped through nearly all of Big Basin Redwoods State Park, including some of the most beloved coast redwood groves. As pictures filtered through the media, public shock turned to heartbreak. Intense, hot fires feeding off accumulated dry fuels sent flames high into the sky and into the canopy, torching magnificent coast redwoods that had stood for more than 1,000 years. Park headquarters, visitor centers, and other infrastructure turned to ashes. Everything in our cherished forest, where I had sought refuge decades earlier to admire and learn from the wonders of awesome nature, was burned to a crisp. Beloved Big Basin, home to the most southerly extent of our largest old-growth coast redwood groves, accessible to millions of city dwellers in the Bay Area, and treasured by millions of others in and beyond California, was gone. Or, was it?

The 2020 fire burned out see-through cavities in tall trees such as this one in Big Basin. Most of the redwoods survived and started sprouting during the first year.  
Four years after the fire in Big Basin, snag trees that first looked dead had sprouted into fuzzy bottlebrush trees full of life.

Here is where the two fire stories diverge as we recognize even more glaring contrasts between the Golden State’s two redwood species and their plant communities. In the links that follow this story, you will see a Big Basin that appears to be burning to the ground. But new redwood growth appeared within weeks after the conflagration, such as basal burl sprouts and sprouts from tree trunks. Decades of carbon storage emerged to the surface as fresh green shoots. And by the time I returned to my cherished sanctuary, recovery and natural regeneration was evident everywhere, only four years after the inferno.

More than two years of heavy rains following the fire helped to speed up the recovery from the bottom of the forest floor to the tops of the coast redwoods at Big Basin.

Though the firestorm killed understory species and most Douglas firs, nearly every scorched redwood was sprouting, evolving from snag tress that began to resemble bottlebrush trees. Not only were sprouts emerging from the base of the trees, but charred limbs were being covered with fresh, fuzzy green growth. This is not to understate the damage that had been done. It will take generations for these forests to recover. More xeric chaparral (such as ceanothus) and ecotone species had invaded open spaces that had previously been cool, moist, shaded enclosures sheltered by a redwood canopy. Invasive weeds included crowding opportunists such as French broom and yellow star thistle. Much of the former forest floor was now exposed to intense direct sunlight, encouraging sun-loving invaders that can withstand large daily and annual temperature swings. Exposed creeks and streams ran much warmer in the summer and carried high sediment yields during the winter rainy season. Just before I arrived in 2024, local air temperatures soared over 100°F during an early July heatwave. But the seared coast redwoods somehow survived it all, and a rich diversity of flora and fauna was returning and evolving in a fantastical story of rebirth. Birds and other wildlife, such as raccoon, fox, deer, coyote, and mountain lion were finding homes within the recovering diversity of habitats.

Sprouts popped up at the base of singed trees and many were larger than this one after four years of natural regeneration in Big Basin.

The two contrasting redwood fire regimes in this story leave us with plenty of science lessons about the natural systems and cycles that nurture such forests. As you might expect, these burnt landscapes are attracting researchers from around the world. They include scholars from the Stephens Fire Science Laboratory, the California Fire Science Consortium, and the UC Center for Fire Research and Outreach. The following are just a few summarizing thoughts.

Our most diverse forests represent more resilient plant communities capable of adapting to gradual and sudden extreme changes. Occasional cool fires encourage a diversity of habitats and plant species, which support more diverse animal species, ranging from bees and other insects to much larger predator and prey. By contrast, aggressive fire suppression leads to stagnation and homogeneity, which could lead to the demise of species and entire ecosystems. Likewise, if hot fires reoccur too frequently, introduced grasses and other invasive fire-loving species could encourage even more frequent fires that alter ecosystems. If you think this suggests a delicate and complicated balance, you nailed it. For centuries, most California ecosystems adjusted to relatively cool fires with spotty hot flareups; redwood forests had adjusted to high fire complexities with a large variety of burns that may have returned every 6-35 years or so. Suppressing such fires disrupts natural succession. However, super-hot, frequent fires everywhere can also disrupt natural cycles, leading to decreasing species diversity and ecosystems less resilient to changes that can destroy them. During the last two centuries, humans have interfered with these natural cycles, which has encouraged high fire intensities and severities capable of searing nearly everything in the forest.

Four years after the fire, thick understory is already growing out of the devastation, shielding streams and Big Basin’s formerly shady forest floor from direct sunlight.

In the bigger picture, there are many more examples of how humans have directly impacted California’s natural fire cycles. The most dramatic changes can usually be found in what has gained a most descriptive and popular name: the wildland-urban interface (WUI). We can’t allow wildfires to destroy billions of dollars in property and kill people as they sweep into our communities, so we try to stop them at our fabricated boundaries. But what is considered defensible space is negotiable in a fire regime where burning embers can be blown over a mile from the active front by high winds. These dilemmas become particularly evident as we encroach further into nature and extend our human footprints. How can we ever restore natural fire cycles when we inevitably find ourselves living adjacent to the very natural landscapes we wish to preserve?

Devastating fires at Big Basin Redwoods and most other California plant communities are not past tense. These mostly introduced golden grasses on the Santa Cruz Mountains ridge in the foreground have been dehydrated by a July, 2024 heat wave. They look down on the wetter, cooler redwood forests around Big Basin, waiting for the next ignition. Note the misty summer fog drifting off the Pacific in the background and into the forest below.

Human impacts on particular keystone species have also changed our fire cycles. As just one example, wildlife officials are working to reintroduce the North American Beaver (Castor canadensis) into select waterways across the state. This keystone species is now considered an ecosystem engineer that expands diverse habitats that then increase and improve nature-based ecosystem services. Beaver dams and ponds widen water courses and raise water tables to irrigate larger, lusher, more diverse and productive riparian habitats and gallery forests. Wildfire behaviors change drastically when they approach such wider, well-watered green barriers. Imagine the countless other ways that assisted natural regeneration can increase ecosystem functionality after a forest fire and help reboot our wildlands back toward their natural fire cycles.

Recent signage at Big Basin recalls generations of mystery and magic before the August 2020 blaze burned down the entire park infrastructure.

I’ve been walking into and gazing up to these magnificent wonders-of-our-world forests to admire and study giant sequoias and coast redwoods for five decades, assuming they would outlive me. I and some of my field students sensed the changes over time. During my next visit, I wonder if these venerable towering elders will be poking fun at me for thinking five decades is a long time. Only now, I must also wonder which of us might be first to decompose into the dust of future generations.  

Still looking for more? Check out the following rather exhaustive list of articles and videos summarizing recent research in California’s redwood forests. There is plenty to unpack here, but you are rewarded by hearing and learning from the experts. Following the links, join me again as I take you on more lengthy self-guided photo tours through these forests.

The first three links are to stories on our website (that now date back several years) highlighting California’s wildfires and/or redwood forests. You can also surf through our website to find multiple stories about weather patterns and climate change. Next is the list of articles and videos from the forests. The final links take you to the most recent researchers using geospatial technologies to help us understand how species are adapting to these changes.  

The Wildfires of 2020:

Forest management and research and perspectives from of one of my former students working in the redwoods:

Encountering coast redwoods with colleagues on a field trip in northwestern California:  

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks Research Projects

Fire Reoccurrence in the Sequoias

Good Article about Sequoias and Fire, with Video, from Outdoor Magazine

Save the Redwoods League

Here is an old NPS article describing the redwoods.

NPS on the Sequoia Fires 2015-2021

NPS on Giant Sequoias and Fire

Castle Fire Research Video from Scientific American

The following three articles focus on Big Basin:

Fire recovery survey, April, 2022, written by Biologist Steve Singer

Fire Recovery in Big Basin

Save the Redwoods League Article Summarizing Recovery at Big Basin

More on California’s Coastal Redwoods:

Nature Plants Article on Regrowth in Coastal Redwoods

Indigenous tribes rekindle control burning in northwest California forests.

Northwestern California Karuk and Yurok tribes revitalize cultural burning.

If you can navigate through the commercials, “It’s History” recalls what happened to most of our coast redwoods.

Do you want to dig deeper into recent related research projects? It turns out that California has become a laboratory for using cutting-edge geospatial technologies to map our evolving plant communities and their thousands of species. Scientists and citizens are using these new technologies to track species as they adapt to climate change, fire, and a host of human impacts. Check out these links, but give yourself some time if it’s all new to you:  

The summary sent from Bill Bowen

The PNAS Article

You could start here if iNaturalist is new to you.

Evolutionary adaptation of species to climate change at the MOILAB

For you more curious and adventurous folks, the following photo essays take you through several of our redwood forests. These colorful tours represent a lifetime (decades) of adventures, field trips, and research projects in California’s redwoods. I used some of the signage in each park to take the place of captions and to give you the sense that you are walking with me. You may notice that no photos were manipulated. Here’s your chance to lose yourself and learn from the forest. Click on each page to walk through a different region.          

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Simpler Solar Solutions https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/simpler-solar-solutions/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=simpler-solar-solutions Thu, 15 Aug 2024 01:11:45 +0000 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=4568 Advancing technologies have drastically boosted efficiency and cut costs over the years to make solar energy far more affordable, practical, and irresistible across the Golden State. But our developments...

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Advancing technologies have drastically boosted efficiency and cut costs over the years to make solar energy far more affordable, practical, and irresistible across the Golden State. But our developments and investments in giant, cutting-edge solar “farms” that harvest, concentrate, and then distribute energy to millions of distant users has unintended consequences. These developments have encouraged Californians to rediscover how so many of their energy solutions can be found right in their own homes, businesses, and backyards. Billions of energy dollars, tons of natural resources, the health of our communities, and huge expanses of our public lands are at stake.

California was a leader in fossil fuel extraction and use during the 20th Century. This landscape near Lost Hills just above the San Joaquin Valley reminds us that all of our energy sources have their impacts. And even here, we are using indirect solar energy in the form of ancient plants and other biomass that once flourished in sunlight. The energy was trapped and cooked into an underground stew for millions of years until we brought it back up to fuel our engines and industries.       

The development and use of affordable renewable energy and our increasingly more efficient use of resources is keeping tons of pollution out of our air, water, and soil, while saving Californians billions of dollars in the long run. Millions of people and entire ecosystems are healthier as California helps to lead the nation and the world toward a cleaner and more promising energy future. As the state’s per capita energy use and greenhouse gas production continues to decline, individuals, households, and businesses have discovered a treasure trove of long-term savings that can be routed to improve the quality of our living and working environments. But since the devil is often in the details, what are these sources of energy and how reliable are they?   

As we race through the 21st Century, each of these economic sectors contribute to California’s enormous but decreasing greenhouse gas emissions. How will future diagrams change as we continue to improve our efficiency? Source: California Air Resources Board.  

The Golden State is progressing toward a challenging goal of 100% “clean” electricity by 2045. But it is important to note that, by 2022, such “clean” sources (according to the California Energy Commission) included all renewables (39+%), large hydropower (≈11%), and what remains of nuclear (≈11%) in the state. Solar, wind, geothermal, biomass, and small hydropower are considered renewables. But there’s something missing here that I’ll call small solar power (often referred to as passive), though it isn’t small at all, since it’s working for us everywhere on every day and it is the source of almost all the energy that surrounds us. 

Californians are responding to gradually warming temperatures by using less energy to warm their spaces and more energy to cool them as we progress through the 21st Century. And most folks continue to discover that most reliable waste-not, want-not source of energy: efficiency.
As temperatures gradually warm, people in all California regions continue to use less energy to heat and more energy to cool their spaces over time.

The energy industry often divides active solar into two categories: solar thermal and solar photovoltaic. The larger projects have generated tons of controversy. For instance, the Ivanpah solar thermal facility, with a price tag of more than $2 billion, was touted as the world’s largest. You can’t miss it if you are driving through the Mojave Desert along Interstate 15 just before crossing into Nevada. This is where once wild open desert has been covered with giant mirrors to focus intense sunlight toward 450-foot towers where high temperature steam turbines generate electricity. The electricity is sold to you through companies such as PG&E and SCE, but millions of dollars of electricity are lost through wires transmitting it to distant urban centers. Meanwhile, the desert along Interstate 10 to Arizona is being covered with photovoltaic panels on BLM land that is now known as The Riverside East Solar Energy Zone. This includes the sprawling Chuckwalla Valley, which has become a sea of solar panels that has also been advertised as the largest such project in the world. In both of these gargantuan solar energy “farms”, enormous expanses of open public desert ecosystems have been sacrificed to gather and concentrate solar energy and convert it to electricity that then must be sent out to urban areas more than 100 miles distant.  

The massive Ivanpah solar thermal facility is located near Interstate 15 and the Nevada Border. From a distance, the solar panels resemble a giant lake. 

As with other major power plants, these solar “farms” come with plenty of baggage. Habitat destruction haunts each project. Thousands of birds and other wildlife have been unintentionally killed each year by these behemoth projects. Precious groundwater supplies have been threatened. Desert dwellers and cultures that include Native Americans have also been impacted.

The Ivanpah solar facility has covered a big chunk of this desert. Impacted wildlife incudes unfortunate birds that are zapped by the intense concentrated heat directed toward the towers. 

Desert devotees wonder why more solar panels are not being installed on top of existing warehouses, parking structures, homes, and businesses, in urban areas where the energy is being used. Even when the cost of storage batteries is added to solar installations, the payoff time is often less than 10-15 years, when consumers begin getting their solar energy for free for the life of panels that can last more than 30 years. And when homes or businesses with existing solar systems are sold, the seller gets more than their investments back from the added sales prices. Those who don’t want to pay upfront costs and take responsibility for owning and maintaining their solar systems are enticed by lucrative leasing arrangements; customers benefit from less expensive energy after paying a monthly fee to the companies who own and lease out the systems. Millions of rooftops and other urban spaces (including those for vital battery storage) are still waiting to harvest and store otherwise wasted and increasingly competitive solar energy for the taking. So why aren’t more families and businesses being encouraged to make such smart investments in otherwise underused urban spaces that can guarantee long-term profits?

Plenty of energy is being used to support economic activities in this industrial landscape that is home to LA’s rail yards. Long ago, the Los Angeles River was “tamed” and channeled around downtown, encouraging industries to locate right along the river. And now, you can see why some might imagine this to be an ideal setting to harvest solar energy that can be used locally.     

You can see why the chorus of concerned citizens and energy experts advocating for more efficient, local energy production is growing louder. They argue that many of the most competitive sources of future energy can be found on our roofs and in our cities where energy is used and that destroying distant public lands and ecosystems is not sustainable. They also argue that local energy issues and problems can be more efficiently addressed with local solutions that help consumers gain control of their power sources. Similar controversies have swirled around some of the ubiquitous wind turbines that have sprouted above rural and remote regions across the state. I address some of these issues in my new book, The California Sky Watcher.   

Health clubs, restaurants, and other businesses discovered the advantages of free natural light and clean, fresh air during and immediately following the COVID pandemic. These healthy open-air environments attracted patrons who were fearful of catching the virus in closed spaces. What did we learn from these back-to-nature business and energy savers that moved outdoors to take advantage of California’s mild climates?

And that leads us to the simpler and more pragmatic sustainable energy solutions sometimes known as passive solar. They often involve common-sense and time-tested planning with nature in practical ways that will allow us to save money, gain control of our energy destiny, and improve the quality of our living and working environments. Such solutions have been under our noses and calling out to us all this time.  

You will find this Living Roof at the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. Plants, solar panels, and skylights compete for space up here. From the Academy: “The Living Roof provides excellent insulation (reducing energy needs for heating and cooling), captures 100% of excess storm water (preventing runoff from carrying pollutants into the ecosystem), and transforms carbon dioxide into oxygen—just for starters.”

Many of us have already discovered the advantages of greenhouses, skylights, sunroofs, and sunrooms that allow natural sunlight in, rather than relying on artificial energy-consuming light and heat sources. And this reminds us that almost all the energy surrounding us is direct or indirect solar. It’s the energy plants use to grow and that animals store as they eat. Whether you are a vegetarian or an omnivore, you are using indirect solar energy to read this page and walk across the room. As covered in stories from my new book and on this website, solar energy creates temperature gradients that build pressure gradients that propel the wind. The sun’s energy evaporates water and lifts moisture into the air to fuel storms that provide life-giving precipitation. There it is, always surrounding us. Because there’s far more solar energy than we will ever need, we need to continue to find more efficient ways of harvesting, storing, and using it.

From the California Academy of Sciences: “Edged by solar panels, the roof’s seven hills are lined with 50,000 porous, biodegradable vegetation trays made from tree sap and coconut husks. An estimated 1.7 million plants fill the trays, their roots interlocking to create an extraordinary oasis for birds, insects, people, and other creatures.”

The simplest acts include opening windows during the day and closing them before sunset during the cool season. During warm summers, keep them open at night through early mornings and then close them when daytime temperatures rise outside. You will keep fresher, healthier air circulating during the comfortable open times and prevent sick building syndromes that can develop in closed spaces. Investments in efficient ventilation systems also cut AC costs in the long run. Plant deciduous vegetation along south-facing walls to shade the hot side of the house during summer; they will lose their leaves to allow more light in during winter. Follow the source of light and heat by keeping track of the sun’s location in your sky as it changes during the day and the seasons. Eaves and overhangs can be just the right length to shade walls and windows from high summer sun during summer afternoons and then allow direct sunlight to warm those surfaces when sun angles are lower during winter. Think of the dozens of other ways you can reconnect to the natural world in and around your own living and working spaces, relieve nature deficit disorders, reap the physical and mental health benefits, and save money in the process. After all, we are fortunate to live in plein air California, not Chicago.

This diagram was intended to show noon sun angles in New York, but it also works fine for northern California, which is at the same latitude. Notice the 47-degree difference in sun angles between the winter and summer solstices. Seasonal differences are the same in southern California, though sun angles are a bit higher.  
From the California Academy of Sciences: “Our living roof is more than beautiful—it’s the heart of the Academy. Weather stations on the roof monitor wind, rain, and changes in temperature to help inform the building’s automated systems and skylights, keeping rainforest temps just right, the interior piazza cool and comfortable, and natural light streaming to the exhibits below.

The best California architects know how to design smart buildings with more sophisticated passive solar features. It might take a little more planning ahead, but such short-term investments will lead to long-term rewards that just keep on giving. Double-paned energy-efficient windows (with Energy Star ratings) and doors and improved insulation have become the standard for good reasons: these upgrades cut energy costs as they allow you to better regulate the air in your home or business when temperatures become uncomfortable outside.  Here is just one website from the U.S. Department of Energy that summarizes passive solar strategies. Here is another good introduction. You can also encourage efforts to become more efficient by supporting nonprofit organizations such as Sustainable Works. They have helped thousands of students, residents, and businesses save money while they also cut pollution and save our valuable resources.

When you visit the Academy’s rooftop, you will find informative signage telling green roofs stories. This cutting-edge demonstration roof is far more sophisticated and advanced that what most architects with limited resources can design, but it serves as a good example of how much we have learned and how far we have progressed.   
Such simple passive solar diagrams (this one credited to Sheer Hamam) are floating around popular websites such as Wikipedia.  
This passive solar diagram (displayed on Wikimedia Commons) includes some more detail. 

We all use energy that can have negative impacts. But we are rediscovering how to create more comfortable, healthier living environments that will limit those impacts and save money in the long run. Sometimes it’s as simple as going back to nature. But it also requires that we work together. And in the bigger picture, that’s where Community Choice Aggregation (CCA) has made major progress across the state. At least 25 CCAs serve more than 200 communities in California that work together to pool their electricity loads, increase efficiency and grid resilience, and encourage renewable energy projects. The combination of simpler solar solutions outlined here, CCAs, and countless related efforts are moving the state toward a much greener and cleaner energy future … and proving how every Californian can make a positive difference.    

Solar panel “farms” continue to spread across the Mojave between Desert Center and Blythe, CA.
This solar panel “farm” sprawls across the Mojave near Tamarisk and Desert Center. Enormous expanses of our open desert wildlands are being transformed to provide energy to distant cities. Source: Oliver Wainwright and The Guardian.

Check out these sources for more:

Community Choice Aggregation (CCA)

Inside Climate News reports on groundwater stresses from desert solar projects.

California Energy Commission

Passive Solar

A Passive Solar General Intro and Summary

NOAA Solar Calculator

Sustainable Works

California Academy of Sciences
The Academy’s Green Roof

California Air Resources Board Greenhouse Gas Inventory

US Green Building Council

One Architect’s Top 15 California Showcases

The Guardian Article

The 2023 Annual Global Climate Report summarizes how California is just another example of more general temperature trends around the globe.

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Unprecedented Drought, Heat, and Fire Repeat in the West, 2021 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/unprecedented-drought-heat-and-fire-repeat-in-the-west-2021/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=unprecedented-drought-heat-and-fire-repeat-in-the-west-2021 Fri, 20 Aug 2021 18:28:22 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=3352 It has become an unfortunate and disturbing annual Golden State dance during the last several years. Severe drought plagues the majority of the state, followed by extended record heat...

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It has become an unfortunate and disturbing annual Golden State dance during the last several years. Severe drought plagues the majority of the state, followed by extended record heat waves, followed by record catastrophic wildfires, followed by our analysis of the latest apocalypse on this web site. We now watch the unimaginable become reality: 2021 could be the worst water shortage and fire year yet. By August, most of the state was suffering under exceptional to extreme drought. Dwindling water supplies forced drastic cuts to farms, fisheries, and cities. Farmers protested on the national news while the fishing industry suffered crippling losses. Water bills skyrocketed while local sources dried up. The Golden State’s legendary water wars were on steroids again. And these water woes extended far beyond our borders and across the West as the first water shortage ever declared in the Colorado River Basin was forcing mandatory water cuts in nearby states. Dehydrated ecosystems parched by brutal heat waves were burning in conflagrations that included the largest single wildfire (the Dixie Fire had scorched more than 900,000 acres by September) and second-largest overall fire in California history. And we still must anticipate autumn’s dry, desiccating offshore winds that usually mark the peak of the fire season.

We add this September 1 update. The Caldor Fire made history by burning all the way across the west side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and over the crest to the east side. (The larger Dixie Fire on the northern fringe of the Sierra Nevada may have been the first in recorded history to accomplish this, just weeks earlier.) As it expanded to more than 200,000 acres and raged toward Lake Tahoe Basin resorts, the Caldor Fire took center stage in media coverage. When about 21,000 people were evacuated, California’s beloved South Lake Tahoe became a ghost town. The following excerpt, from an August 31 New York Times article about megafires, summed up the latest western fires nightmare: “No matter how many people you have out on these fires, it’s not a large enough work force to put the fire out,” said Malcolm North, a fire expert with the U.S. Forest Service and a professor at the University of California, Davis. “You can save particular areas or particular homes,” Professor North said. “But the fire is pretty much going to do what it’s going to do until the weather shifts.”

When red flag conditions spread, all National Forests in California were closed while exhausted fire crews fought on into September, 2021. It is little surprise that inland weather stations were recording their warmest three combined summer months (June, July, and August) in history. That included the National Weather Service in nearby Reno, where average temperatures of 77.4 F (25.2 C), and average highs near 94 F (34.4 C), broke 2017’s hottest three summer months records. By mid-September, state fire statistics were daunting: more than 7,000 wildfires had burned more than 3,500 square miles (9,065 square kilometers). By then, temperatures were down, humidities were up, and red flag warnings disappeared across the state, allowing fire crews to contain the blazes, while most national forests reopened. Anxious Californians were left to anticipate autumn’s offshore wind events that might rekindle another wildfire year already gone mad.

Recording the Heat of Summer, 2021. The world’s tallest thermometer in Baker, California is located deep in the Mojave Desert next to Interstate 15. It got quite a workout in June and July of 2021, as several days set heat records. That is impressive in a place sometimes named “The Gateway to Death Valley.” Here, in early July, it’s already 111 degrees F (44 C), hours before the afternoon high temperature will be recorded.

We have dedicated an enormous amount of time and space on this web site to these reoccurring calamities during the last several years. You might consult our publication for more detailed scientific explanations. Our weather, climate change, and wildfire stories on this web site have included abundant research and analyses with a wide range of perspectives. You can click back to them for a better understanding of how we got here and where we might be headed. In this story, we briefly focus on the latest round of catastrophic wildfires in northern California (as of August), the weather patterns that incited them, and the impacts they are having far beyond the Golden State.

(Where you see numbers blocked in parentheses in this text, you might consult Page 2 of this story for some more detailed definitions and explanations.)

High Pressure Brings Record Heat. This upper level map shows the height of 500mb in meters, about halfway through the atmosphere. You can see the massive, elongated high pressure ridge that covered an area from southwestern Canada, through the Pacific Northwest, all the way into inland California. As air descended out of this ridge, it was heated by compression, resulting in record high temperatures. Dehydrated plant communities later exploded into flames, especially in Oregon and northern California.
Source: NOAA and San Francisco State University. 
Mt. Shasta is Burning. This photo, showing the southeastern flank of active flames in the Lava Fire, was taken through smoke that had accumulated throughout the region. Here, it had spread into scattered hot spots that were burning all the way up to the volcano’s tree line in late July, or just about one month after the fire was sparked by lightning. By this time, attention had turned to much larger and more destructive northern California fires that were adding to the thick layers of smoke during another scorching summer under a cap of high pressure.   

Shasta Feels the Burn
Mt. Shasta, 2021, serves as just one example of how extreme weather patterns are reshaping landscapes around the state. By July, snow packs that usually cover and help insulate Shasta’s glaciers had disappeared, leaving the icy masses vulnerable to accelerated melting during this latest historic summer of heat and drought. Ash and soot, falling out of smoke from the region’s epic fires, darkened surfaces, cut albedo, and hastened the melting. By late summer, meltwater carrying mud and debris flows was spasmodically cascading down the volcano. Roads, bridges, and other infrastructure were especially threatened by debris flows along Mud Creek and around the town of McCloud from sudden outbursts off of Konwakiton Glacier. As the media searched for some explanations from the experts, this quote from the L.A. Times, published on September 8, 2021, was repeated in various forms within local and national news stories: “It’s scary. The pace of change right now on Mt. Shasta seems very fast, and its glaciers are getting smaller at a rate that makes me sad,” said Andy Calvert, scientist in charge at Mt. Shasta for the U.S. Geological Survey. “The principal problem now is mudflows,” he said. “They are sudden releases of water that scour out stream channels and pick up rocks and dirt on the way down, leaving a muddy mess.”

According to scientists studying these changes, such as glaciologist Mauri Pelto, Mt. Shasta has lost at least 50% of its glacial ice volume in the last 20 years. More glacial ice was lost on Shasta in this summer of 2021 than in any other year in recorded history. The few remaining glaciers nestled against California’s other high country peaks have been retreating at similar rates.

Lava Fire. This map plots the boundaries of the Lava Fire on July 12, 2021. It was started by lightning on June 24 and quickly became the largest of northern California wildfires at the time. That distinction changed dramatically during July, as other wildfires erupted and scorched hundreds of thousands of acres across northern California. Mt. Shasta is on the southeast corner of the map and Interstate 5 and the town of Weed is on the southwest corner. Source: USDA/U.S. Forest Service – Shasta Trinity National Forest.

Setting the Stage for Fire
We start with another exceptionally dry 2020-2021 rainy season throughout most of the state. Stubborn high pressure vacillated over us or just to our west, repeatedly forcing winter storms to our north, up over the resilient ridge, and then back down to our east. With some exceptions, much of the rainy season was dominated by relatively dry “inside sliders” that dropped into Nevada, lacking substantial sources of moisture, but circulating high winds. (1) Parts of central and southern California were left with less than half of their annual average rainfall and some weather stations were closer to 1/3 of average. Then, early summer started with a bang in the form of massive high pressure systems that produced record heat domes. This included the historic heat wave that broke all-time records from the Canadian Border, through Washington and Oregon, down into California’s inland regions. Heavy, dense air sinking out of the strongest high pressure was compressed all the way to the surface, creating adiabatically-heated ovens. Record high temperatures were recorded across our deserts, inland valleys, and up to our mountaintops. After a punishing June and July, mid-August high temperatures in the northern Sacramento Valley and other northern inland valleys soared well over 100 F, even with veils of smoke shielding the most intense sunlight.

Successive Fires Dominate the Scenery. Smoke filled the air again in July 2021, after a few years of catastrophic wildfires in the region around Lake Shasta and along Interstate 5 in northern California. It takes a trained eye to distinguish between fires that burned last year or in other recent years, as plant communities struggle to adjust to the hottest and largest wildfires in our history.

Relief near the Beach
The only “good” news we have about these summer heat waves is that, at least into August, temperatures along the immediate coast frequently remained relatively mild and even below average in the fog belt that stretched along many beaches all the way down to the Mexican Border. These shallow, fresh sea breezes stood in contrast to the plumes of thick smoke circulating farther inland. We explore this cold coast oddity in another adjacent story within this three-part weather series on our web site. Check it out.

Another Smoky Sunset in Northern California. Smoke from the fires of summer, 2021, looms above previously incinerated plant communities and blocks the sunset again. Parts of northern California begin to resemble scenes from apocalyptic science fiction movies.

Fires Behaving Badly
As expected, the prolonged drought and searing inland heat waves led to another summer of “we’ve never seen wildfires behave like this.” The first one to be called the biggest was the rather odd Lava Fire that was sparked by lightning on June 24 and burned into August. Firefighters had already noted conditions in June that more resembled August as the fire burned around and up the slopes of Mt. Shasta, northeast of Weed. The fires burned all the way up to the tree line on steep, inaccessible, craggy lava terrain with limited water sources. As more threatening fires erupted throughout the surrounding region that includes northern Californian, the Sierra Nevada, and Oregon, adding to the thick smoke clouds, attention turned away from this slow-moving Lava Fire.

New and Old Droughts, Heatwaves, and Firestorms. Choking smoke accumulates from northern California fires during the summer of 2021 and obscures our views of the devastation from recent conflagrations. The vicious cycle of record drought, heat, and firestorms is taking its toll on California plant communities. The quote is getting a bit old: “We’ve never seen fires behave like this before.”

Larger Fires, Spreading Smoke Clouds
Among the growing conflagrations, the Dixie Fire exploded to a single record 600,000+ acres by mid-August, creating its own weather systems. Choking smoke plumes had mushroomed, spread across northern California, and then merged and traveled farther north into inland areas of Oregon and Washington. For weeks, prevailing winds spread the smoke from California and Oregon fires north and then east, across Nevada, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado. Persistent high pressure capped the smoke, causing poor air quality and blocking views throughout and beyond those states, spreading the red veil of gloom over an area larger than anyone could remember. (2) Big Sky Country had turned to big smoke country in the hot, dry air under relentless high pressure. Visitors and locals in and around National Parks (such as Grand Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier) made famous for their blue sky views and definitive cloud formations, coughed their way through the smoky haze. Denver and Salt Lake City recorded some of the worst air quality in the world. By mid-July, noticeable smoke clouds had already arrived on the East Coast, in a repeat performance reminiscent of last year’s firestorm stories. The ominous summer of 2021 wore on as firefighters and just about everyone else began to dread the next building high pressure system and summer heat wave, while shifting prevailing winds determined who would suffer most from dangerous smoke. We were all connected again by the local and global changes that are impacting all of us.

What Happens in California isn’t Staying in California. Orange and red sunsets and stifling smoky skies are reflected in these mineral pools in Yellowstone National Park as smoke from California and Oregon drifted north and then east during the summer of 2021.

It Doesn’t Stop Here.
We wish the story could stop here. By August, the Dixie Fire alone had destroyed more than 1,000 structures and the entire town of Greenville. Its smoke plume formed a thick line of condensation all the way across Nevada. (3) But there may be more ominous warning signs on the immediate horizon.

Crepuscular Fire Skies. The smoke that obscured summer views throughout Big Sky Country and other Western regions also helped to accentuate these crepuscular rays that are passing through cumulus clouds. Smoke from the northern California and Oregon fires of 2021 drifted all the way to the East Coast. 

Looking for Miracles in all the Wrong Places?
Without some sort of anomalous – or perhaps miraculous – weather pattern shift, California will experience another punishing autumn that will go down in the record books. All you have to do is observe the parched slopes and alarmingly desiccated plant communities in southern and central California…illustrating the cumulative effects of successive droughts and record heat years. Cooler temperatures with exceptional and substantial early season rains must arrive before autumn’s dry offshore Diablo and Santa Ana winds erupt to whip up the peak fire season. The annual race to see what comes first has never been more consequential. And should the next wet season end with more improbable drought, many of our reservoirs and other sources of water will dry up. Is this sounding too familiar in this state where the unprecedented has become the normal?

Follow the latest California drought on this web site: https://droughtmonitor.unl.edu/CurrentMap/StateDroughtMonitor.aspx?CA

Jing Liu Connects Dots Leading to the Pika
We continue to recognize how accelerating climate change and these epic fires are impacting and even threatening such a wide range of plant and animal species. Jing Liu has written a story about what some people might consider to be one of the most adorable: the American Pika. You won’t be disappointed if you take a little time to learn some animal science from Jing’s enthralling story, exceptional maps, and attached videos. This little pika lives around the very habitats that have been incinerated this summer and featured on our web site. Here is the story: https://storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/5d70673f2ab641b389dcd15e4779bdb7

California Smoke Impacts Western Weather. Smoke drifting from northern California and Oregon wildfires has drifted northeast into several states and then settled under the relentless high pressure ridge. Each of these states is struggling through their own droughts and heat waves. On this late July day, air flow from the southeast is pushing monsoon moisture (brighter clouds) up from Mexico and Arizona and then north through the Golden State. The wind turns toward the east over Oregon, carrying our wildfire smoke along with it. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Bigger Fires, More Smoke. Ten days after the previous satellite image was taken, north winds persist over northern California’s massive wildfires. Watch the smoke blow north and then turn east and inland with the prevailing winds of the day. Brighter towering cumulonimbus and scattered thunderstorms can be seen building above the smoke to the east, also drifting with prevailing winds. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.  
Winds of Change. Several days later, prevailing surface winds near the northern California fires have calmed, but upper level westerlies then shear the smoke plumes across Nevada and into Utah and farther downwind into Colorado. Meanwhile, smoke has been scoured out by strong westerly winds in regions and states to the north, leaving them with better air quality. Note how monsoon storms continue to creep toward southern California from Arizona. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Recovering from Firestorms. Though we’ve used our publication and web site to document many wildfires that have ravaged California, we can’t forget how these trends are affecting every Western state across natural ecosystems that do not recognize human borders. We can also learn a lot about how plant communities evolve after fires and we can anticipate how California’s incinerated forests might be changing over time. For instance, in western mountains that include the northern Rockies, sun-loving lodgepole pine (Pinas Contorta, a species also common to California’s high country) are often first to emerge after fires. Through succession, these forests might later develop into cooler habitats that will support species requiring more water and shade.
Smoke on the Water. Anyone who has visited Glacier National Park might be shocked by this view across Lake McDonald. But, you can blame northern California wildfires during July, 2021 and the prevailing winds that blew the smoke here, where it was trapped under stubborn high pressure.
Past and Present Droughts and Fires. Landscapes around Glacier National Park might resemble northern California for good reason. Much of the West is experiencing unprecedented heat, drought, and more frequent wildfires, punctuated by extreme precipitation events and damaging floods. Ecosystems well beyond our borders are struggling to adjust to these accelerating changes. 
We Should All Recognize this Familiar Language. Informative signage such as this could appear in California or any other western state. We are challenged to share lessons learned from climate change, fire behavior, and ecosystem management.
California Fire in the Montana Sky. A burned version of what was once northern California biomass is settling over Bowman Lake wilderness in Glacier National Park, again proving that we are all connected. 
Obstructed Views Change our Views of the World. The northern Rocky Mountains and Glacier National Park were made famous partly because of their spectacular views. But prevailing winds from the northern California fires of July, 2021, helped change the sky to this for several days. The smoke became so dense, condensation on the finer particles formed into these low clouds below Logan Pass.
Glaciers are Melting Faster. We are losing more than beautiful views. Thanks to layers of ash and soot (as seen here) falling from more frequent fires, the remaining glaciers in our western high country are turning darker. The darker ice absorbs more sunlight and this decreasing albedo is accelerating the melting of glaciers that were already retreating due to climate change. Here, you can thank the northern California wildfires of summer 2021 for increasing the synergy of positive feedback mechanisms that are rapidly changing our world.
Where’s Many Glacier? At this place called Many Glacier (in Glacier National Park), you will find the legendary Swiss-style Many Glacier Hotel, advertised to be located in the “Switzerland of North America.” Scenery from the lakeside is also legendary. But in July of 2021, we couldn’t see any glaciers through the smoky haze drifting from northern California and other western wildfires. Let’s hope the name hasn’t already become a curiosity.

Mono Lake in the Smoke. Back in California, by mid-August, 2021, growing wildfires had erupted and spread into the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Clouds of dense smoke swirled and settled on the eastern sides of the range, delivering dangerous pollutants and obscuring views. Can you find Mono Lake in this photo? Here is another place made famous for its crystal-clear sparkling views, temporarily spoiled by accelerating climate change and incessant wildfires…again. Photo by Jing Liu.
Waiting for Rain or Wind? Back in coastal southern and central California, drought has left coastal sage scrub, chaparral, grasslands, woodlands, and other plant communities dangerously dehydrated…again. This view shows the coastal sage wildland-urban interface above the Los Angeles Basin as July turns to August, 2021, on just another “perfect” day. Struggling and dying plants and animals can only wait for nature’s seasonal contest to see what comes first this autumn: quenching rains to mercifully quell the fire season, or Santa Ana winds that will fan another round of cataclysmic flames.

The post Unprecedented Drought, Heat, and Fire Repeat in the West, 2021 first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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Adventures of a Water Drop, California Style https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/adventures-of-a-water-drop-california-style/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=adventures-of-a-water-drop-california-style Fri, 19 Feb 2021 05:18:50 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2936 Forward: An Autobiographical Synopsis Let me introduce myself. I am a California water drop. I condensed from billions of water vapor molecules in the air above the North Pacific...

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Forward: An Autobiographical Synopsis

Let me introduce myself. I am a California water drop. I condensed from billions of water vapor molecules in the air above the North Pacific Ocean to become embedded in the clouds that evolved into a large storm system. Through alternating ups and downs, and freeze and thaw cycles, I was carried in a rotating middle latitude wave cyclone as it drifted southeast and toward California. As the storm swept across the Golden State, I was forced to rise higher over the mountains and I grew as a giant ice crystal until I fell as a fluffy-turned-heavy snowflake in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

Cascading Snowmelt. Water drops accumulate from high country snowmelt into streams that merge into the Merced River. Here, they cascade down the river, toward Yosemite Valley, after navigating its spectacular waterfalls. 

After weeks of resting in the snowpack just above 9,000’ elevation, I emerged in the spring thaw, melting into Yosemite’s subalpine ecosystems. I flowed down the slopes under the force of gravity and merged with similar water drops until we accumulated into rivulets that merged into tributary streams that finally joined the Merced River. The river, swelling with spring’s snowmelt, cut through spectacular mountain canyons and valleys and tumbled over waterfalls. After flowing west through Yosemite Valley, I finally glided through the gentler-sloping foothill country and into the Central Valley. After maneuvering through various reservoirs and other human obstructions, I joined the larger San Joaquin River. From there, I flowed northwest on the valley floor and into the storied Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta. There, I merged with Sacramento River water and gradually meandered through San Francisco Bay, under the Golden Gate, and back out to sea.

I drifted south in the cold California current and began veering to my right and farther out to sea off Baja, Mexico. Caught in the giant clockwise pinwheel that is the North Pacific Gyre, I turned farther west toward Asia and then north. My saga “ends” where it started in the North Pacific Ocean. But, my story doesn’t really “end” there any more than it “started” there, since I am playing an active role within Earth’s interconnected, perpetual water cycles.

As you follow my path in the more detailed account that follows in Parts I and II, the author will map out the many other routes I could have followed, with suggestions about how other water drops traveled in many different directions to experience their many very different fates. It is a classic California water story.

So, put on your seat belt, enjoy the ride, and don’t forget to show your appreciation, as you may run into me at any time on any day.    

Preface: Following the Water and our Story

Here is a story about a drop of water that happened to pass through California during its wild ride within Earth’s great water cycles. As with other visitors to the Golden State, it undergoes many different phases and metamorphoses as it passes through an astounding variety of environments. And similar to other residents of and visitors to California, our water drop cannot remain isolated, as it often interacts and merges with other drops and its dynamic surroundings. This is a captivating story of adventure that alternates from scenes of peace and quiet solitude to extreme turbulence and chaotic violence, all powered by nature. The difference between our drop and your favorite superhero story is that this saga is plausible and our water drop and others like it are having direct and indirect impacts on all of us every hour of every day. 

Joining the Merced River Party. More high-country spring snowmelt, accumulated in the backcountry, rushes over Lower Yosemite Falls. From here, it will merge with the Merced River and join our water drop on its trip through Yosemite Valley and on down toward the Central Valley.    

Our story is organized into three parts. The first part (Web Page 1) is mostly a meteorological experience that follows the water as it rides through the atmosphere above the North Pacific Ocean all the way to California and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The second part (Web Page 2) is mainly a hydrological adventure that shadows our water as gravity pulls it down the mountain slopes, into the Merced River, through Yosemite and into the Central Valley, and finally back out into the Pacific Ocean. The third part (Web Page 3) is a sort of glossary that explains some of the more technical terms and concepts used throughout this riveting saga; it is intended to provide you with a clearer understanding of the science behind the story and the scenery. When discussions deserve more detailed scientific explanations, they are flagged with “(E)” and a numbered notation in the text so that you can quickly refer to the glossary in Part III on Web Page 3, where you will find a more thorough explanation that might prove helpful.       

Every day, 40 million Californians watch water flow out of their faucets or down their streets or through streams or in to various reservoirs and lakes. They might catch raindrops or snowflakes and then marvel at how water in the soil is absorbed by all the plants and animals around them for essential nourishment. Where did that water come from and where is it going? The mystery unfolds here as we follow a California water drop.

The Water Cycle. Our water drop could follow many different paths. We will follow its journey to, across, and out of California. Illustration Source: NOAA.  

Part I: A Wild Ride to California

It all “started” in the North Pacific Ocean when surface water gained enough energy to evaporate into a passing air mass that was not yet near saturation. Another way to word this is that the air temperature was higher than its dew point temperature, so that the relative humidity remained below 100%; and so the air retained its capacity to hold more water vapor, or water in the gaseous phase (E1). Countless billions of water vapor molecules that added up to tons of H2O were absorbed by this air mass as the total amount of water vapor in the clear air (E2) increased over time. As more water molecules were absorbed, the cooler air parcels eventually approached saturation and a few variable, innocuous clouds began to condense in some of the air parcels at various altitudes in the stable air column.

Aleutian Low Spins Turbulence. The Aleutian Low often intensifies around the Gulf of Alaska during winter months. This water vapor image shows its characteristic counterclockwise rotation with warm air riding up ahead of it (on the east side) and a cold front spinning colder air down on its western side. Another middle latitude cyclone is also moving through California, bringing rain to lower elevations and snow to the mountains.  Source: NOAA: National Weather Service.

Then, a very cold, dense, heavy air mass slid east off the frigid Asian continent and over the North Pacific and changed everything. It wedged under our relatively warmer and lighter air column and lifted it, creating instability and turbulence (E3). As our air mass ascended, it quickly cooled to its dew point temperature. Each of the innumerable billions of tiny water droplets organized around water-seeking condensation nuclei known as hygroscopic nuclei and our water drop was no exception. It condensed and grew and successfully competed for available moisture by forming around a tiny, suspended, salt particle (E4). As the slightly salty water drops grew in the saturated air, accelerated condensation released latent heat, adding more energy to the surrounding clouds during the change of state from vapor to liquid water drops (E5). Many of the drops, including ours, began to freeze as they were lifted to higher altitudes where temperatures were well below freezing, releasing a little more latent heat during their change of state, encouraging more vertical development in the clouds. 

Upper Level Support. This 500mb chart (roughly half way up through the atmosphere) overlays a satellite photo to show the relationship between upper level winds and surface weather features on a January day. Notice the intensity of the Aleutian low as it begins to drift eastward, nudging the large subtropical high pressure that is protecting southern California from storminess. As this upper level low pressure trough sags south and drifts toward the coast, displacing the high pressure ridge, it will drag a significant winter storm into the Golden State. Note how winds blow roughly parallel to isobars (actually isoheights), representing this nearly balanced tug-of-war between the pressure gradient and Coriolis forces. These winds accelerate as they curve around the bottom of the trough, encouraging cyclogenesis and unstable weather near the surface. Source: San Francisco State University.
Spinning Toward California. Another water vapor image captures another behemoth middle latitude wave cyclone drifting toward the west coast. A train of warm, subtropical air, sometimes coined an atmospheric river, is being dragged over California from the southwest as the storm approaches. When such warm, moist air mixes with cold, unstable low pressure, heavy precipitation is often delivered to California hillslopes. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.  

This became an unstable environment where towering clouds were organizing into a massive low pressure system with its rising air masses. The growing storm took on characteristics of a middle latitude cyclone. Our water drop-turned –ice crystal was caught in the winds spiraling into the low in a counterclockwise direction. Stronger pressure gradients pulled the ice crystal’s air parcel toward its left and into the center of low pressure, but the Coriolis effect (caused by the spinning Earth) was simultaneously pulling our ice crystal and its surrounding air parcel to its right (E6). This natural tug-of-war was joined by centripetal and frictional forces that exerted their influence as our ice crystal and its air parcel continued spiraling counterclockwise toward and around the strengthening low pressure storm. It was caught in fierce, gale-force winds as it collided with billions of other water drops and pieces of ice in the clouds. Our ice crystal alternately ascended and froze in updrafts and descended and partially melted in downdrafts; but it never made it to the surface, as opposed to some others that precipitated as snow, sleet, rain, or hail, or others that evaporated into the air before reaching the surface (E7).                

Landfall on the West Coast.  Displaced from the North Pacific, this upper level trough is drifting over the West Coast. Accelerating high-level winds around the trough encourage air to ascend over California, creating instability and storminess near the surface, adding plenty of valuable moisture to rain gauges and snowpacks. Note the giant ridge of Pacific high pressure pushing in and behind it. These series of upper level waves in the westerlies (known as Rossby Waves) normally migrate through the state during our winters, resulting in alternating days of precipitation followed by fair weather. However, in recent years, these high-magnitude waves have more frequently stalled in place, resulting in years of record drought followed by record floods. Source: San Francisco State University.           

Our developing middle latitude wave cyclone was considered to be an Aleutian Low since it originated near the Gulf of Alaska. It grew to more than 1,000 miles in diameter as appendages of warm and cold fronts organized and spiraled around it (E8). Upper level winds began steering the entire system east, toward the West Coast. These powerful high-altitude winds, which peak in a cylindrical core that we call the jet stream, sheared off tons of ice crystals and carried them away to the east from the top of the storm. Simultaneously, more water vapor was being absorbed and incorporated into the base of the storm from the moist environment closer to the surface. Still, our ice crystal/water drop managed to hold together and remain in the storm system. As those upper level winds shaped a deeper longwave trough in the westerlies (E9), the entire system began drifting southeast toward the West Coast. Our storm system was transporting our water drop/ice crystal to California as the wild ride continued.

Atmospheric River Delivers. As the center of this powerful winter storm drifts into California, it rotates a train of moisture up from the southwest. As this atmospheric river interacts with the cold front, copious amounts of precipitation fall, first on the Coast Ranges, then on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In the mountains, this translates to “warm”, very wet, mushy snowfalls near freezing. As the mother low swings across the state, cold air behind the cold front will drop snow levels, resulting in “dry”, powdery snowfall with lower total water content in air well below freezing. Our snowflake was deposited into such contrasting layers of snow. Note the vertical clouds of cold instability forming over the ocean behind the frontal band. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

As the storm approached California’s north coast, its counterclockwise rotation pulled in a plume of warmer, moist air from the subtropics up ahead of it. Our ice crystal was caught near this intrusion and it nearly melted back to become a water drop…until it swung around the low and encountered a colder air mass pulled down from the Gulf of Alaska, freezing it again. Through days of freezing and thawing and growing larger and smaller around that initial microscopic salt particle, racing around the low and across the Pacific with surrounding air parcels, our water drop/ ice crystal had somehow survived. And now it was embedded in a definitive cold front associated with the mother low, all marching across the California coast. It rode in the towering and turbulent cumulus and cumulonimbus clouds of the cold front as it swept down the coast and inland.

Ice Crystal Cirrus. Ice crystals often blow in the strong upper level winds far ahead of storms that may or may not ever get this far. These particular ice crystal cirrus clouds at between 25,000-30,000 feet are stretching out ahead of a classic warm front, where relatively warm, moist air is being gradually lifted until layers of air become saturated. Our ice crystal could have met this fate, but it was, instead, embedded in a cold front near the center of the storm system.   

As the front carried up and over the Coast Ranges, embedded air masses were forced to rise even faster, creating more instability (E10). Ours became one of the tons of ice crystals that grew larger by accretion in the ascending saturated air until it was so heavy, it fell toward the ground near the Bay Area. Though many other giant crystals landed there just after melting, ours encountered another powerful updraft that lifted it higher into the clouds. It rode these clouds with the cold front all the way over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where they were lifted even higher, up to 30,000 feet. During this orographic lifting, additional moisture attached to our ice crystal so that it finally grew too heavy (E11). And so it fell into the high country of Yosemite, crunched between tiny air pockets with billions of other snowflakes that may have similar stories (E12).

Vertical Development and Instability. As the cold front sweeps inland across the California coast, it scoops up and lifts relatively warm air nearly vertically so that it quickly becomes saturated. As latent heat of condensation is released in the boiling clouds, they grow into towering cumulus and cumulonimbus, riding the front across the state. Heavy showers and even chilling thunderstorms are often the result. Our water drop/ice crystal could have been embedded in one of these.

That winter storm delivered copious amounts of low-elevation rain and high-elevation snow as it swept through northern and central California. Water drops and ice crystals similar to the one we have followed soaked into soils and accumulated on surfaces from the Klamaths and Cascades, to the Coast Ranges and Sierra Nevada, and in the valleys that separated them. The cold front even held together long enough to spread lesser amounts of precipitation into thirsty southern California (E13). But as the upper level trough continued drifting east, the storm and cold front that it carried was forced up over those major mountain ranges. The rising air on the west side of the mountains squeezed out and then dumped most of the remaining moisture there in the form of orographic precipitation. In contrast, by the time the system cleared the peaks and descended down the leeward, or rainshadow, sides of the mountains, it was in disarray and moisture starved (E14). Though some showers would also fall over the mountains of the Basin and Range to the east, our ice crystal had already dropped out over Yosemite, just before the at least temporary demise of this once-powerful Pacific storm system.

Rainshadow Disappointment? Here is why it is so dry on the east sides of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This winter storm is dumping tons of snow on the western slopes and high country in the background. But as they must sink down these leeward (eastern) slopes of the mountains, the already dried out air masses are then heated by compression. This often evaporates any moisture that might remain in the recently moist air parcels. What little precipitation that settles will end up evaporating in place or flowing into the dry high deserts below, where it is trapped within inland drainages. Our ice crystal fell out of its storm before it could get this far east. 
Late Thaw Continues. As spring turns toward summer, the winter snow pack has dwindled from the several feet that recently covered this forest floor. Diurnal freeze/thaw cycles will turn to 24-hour melting and the snow and ice will finally disappear. But these giant sequoias, like other species throughout the Sierra Nevada Mountains, will be nurtured into the summer by water that is soaking into these soils. The runoff from this scene will enter streams that merge together and eventually join the Merced River.   

Our large snowflake that fell out of the storm that winter night entered a dramatically different environment in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It settled and piled up with billions of other snowflakes and ice pellets into Yosemite’s high country, a place of solitude with a kind of striking calm and quiet that few of today’s humans will ever experience. There were no people for many miles in this mountain wilderness, where even the animals had taken shelter. It was a deafening silence, as the fluffy snow seemed to absorb any sound that dared propagate through this frigid winter wonderland. An occasional clump of snow would fall to the surface from the limbs of a nearby overburden Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta) or other tree species in this subalpine forest. Our giant snowflake was eventually buried below layers of other snowflakes delivered from this and subsequent winter storms. Quiet and calm buried in more silence, squashed together, waiting for a warming sun that wouldn’t come for weeks.

Counting Last Winter’s Snowstorms. The snow has been plowed around this Sierra Nevada parking lot, perhaps slicing through cross sections that are a history of last winter’s storms. The first snowstorm of the season that stuck might be found on the very bottom. More recent snowfalls were melted away a while ago; June’s warmth will finish off the rest of it. 

But as with the other raindrops and ice crystals that fell across the state during this latest winter storm, there are plenty of surprises, dramas, and excitement to come in our story, as we follow the continuing adventures of this water drop in California.

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Desert Quakes and Ancient Lakes: Geopostcards from Searles Valley https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/desert-quakes-and-ancient-lakes-geopostcards-from-searles-valley/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=desert-quakes-and-ancient-lakes-geopostcards-from-searles-valley Sun, 17 Jan 2021 23:50:45 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2753 In early July 2019, a series of powerful earthquakes fractured the desert, generating violent seismic waves that eventually rippled across the state and dissipated into California’s distant cities. A...

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In early July 2019, a series of powerful earthquakes fractured the desert, generating violent seismic waves that eventually rippled across the state and dissipated into California’s distant cities. A secluded outpost was suddenly thrust on to the global stage. Within seconds, the forces of nature had reaffirmed the common ground between California’s most dissimilar landscapes and people; places that previously seemed worlds apart were reconnected.       

So Far, yet So Near. Mules and then trains first connected an isolated Searles Valley to the world. Today, lonely Highway 178 between Ridgecrest and Panamint Valley is the way in and out of this solitary desert valley and its mining town, as it may seem continents away from the mild climates and world-renowned coastal cities on the opposite sides of the state’s great mountain ranges. But the July 2019 Ridgecrest Earthquake Sequence reminded us how such seemingly disparate California landscapes and people are connected by powerful forces beyond our control. It might have started as another summer of clear, hot, quiet days, but nature’s sudden violent tremors would change everything.   

It was dinnertime when serpentine seismic waves suddenly began rippling and then rolling through our creaking house. We watched and braced ourselves as the light fixture hanging above the trembling dinner table began swaying, as if to dance in choreography with other objects that were not solidly secured. Seasoned Californians who have experienced too many tremblors over the decades recognize these seismic waves, lasting several seconds or more, as eerie messengers propagating from a strong but distant earthquake, perhaps hundreds of miles away. This version of California vertigo is quite different from the short jolts and lurches of smaller quakes originating from nearby epicenters. Thankfully, the undulations subsided several seconds later, leaving little or no damage here, so that we could connect to the best media to answer our questions: How big was this one, who and where were the latest distant victims, and could we expect more or even greater terra convulsions? Thanks to technologies scientists have developed in recent years, and we have explored in previous stories on this web site, the answers came within minutes, a mere instant compared to the hours of anxious anticipation that would pass after sizable earthquakes in past decades. 

Intensity Map. These contours show a version of the intensity of shaking reported from the M7.1 July 5, 2019 earthquake. The star shows the epicenter and the contours range from Intensity VIII (orange, or severe) to Intensity III (blue, or weak). A few isolated spots near the epicenter peaked at Intensity IX, or violent. Shaking near the epicenter was severe enough to cause major damage, but this occurred in remote desert and mountain sites or near relatively small human settlements. Still, even the large coastal cities around L.A., more than 120 miles (200 km) away, experienced noticeable and unnerving long rolling and swaying motions. Source: USGS.    

Though some shaking was felt as far away as Sacramento and San Diego and Las Vegas, the epicenter and greatest damage was located in the sparsely populated desert about 120 miles (195km) north of major southern California cities. Their seclusion could not spare the victims of small communities around Trona and Ridgecrest or the Naval Air Weapons Station at China Lake from violent shaking that cracked buildings, set fires, crumbled walls, threw mobile homes off their foundations, and destroyed infrastructure until more than $1 billion damage was done. It would be recorded as another powerful earthquake, but perceived as another case of how most Californians dodged the dreaded “Big One” bullet. 

Perpendicular Faults Break. Note how the July 4th foreshock and its related earthquakes appear to line up along the southwest-northeast-trending fault, which is left lateral. Also note how the main July 5 earthquake that followed 34 hours later (labelled 7/6 3:19 UTC time on this map) and related earthquakes trend northwest-southeast, or perpendicular to the other fault. This largest earthquake resulted in greater right-lateral displacements and some remarkable vertical displacements, and the aftershocks eventually trickled up toward the Owens Valley. The connected strike-slip structures were determined to be part of the Airport Lake Fault Zone, part of the Eastern California Shear Zone. (This image was displayed on Wikimedia and other sites from the original data source: USGS.)

This was the largest (M7.1) in a series of earthquakes that fractured and violently shook the mostly remote desert floor of Searles Valley and the adjacent rugged desert mountains to its west during the first week of July 2019. It was also the largest earthquake to hit within the borders of California in two decades. Interestingly, the Hector Mine earthquake of 1999 and the Landers quake of 1992 were similar temblors just above magnitude 7 that also sheared dramatic cracks and horizontal and vertical displacements of several feet on the desert floor to the south; they also tore through remote desert regions, sparing distant population centers from major damage. An image in our publication shows this author standing next to a vertical fault scarp of more than 6 feet (2 meters) high, lifted in less than 30 seconds by the Landers earthquake. These major seismic events in our remote deserts contrast with the disastrous and deadly 1989 Loma Prieta quake (M7.0) in the Bay Area and the 1994 Northridge cataclysm (M6.7), two of the most costly natural disasters in U. S. history up to those times, both with epicenters under or near major cities, but both leaving less conspicuous surface fissures that were a lot more difficult to find and measure. 

Looking Down on Displacement. From their helicopter, USGS scientists, National Guard, and Navy crews note up to five feet of right-lateral displacement on this truck access road after the July 2019 Ridgecrest Sequence. Note how the displacement splinters into a series of parallel fissures and other linear features. USGS.

Scientists named these more recent July 2019 tremors the “Ridgecrest Earthquake Sequence”, including that largest July 5th M7.1 event described at the start of this article. It was preceded by a major foreshock of M6.4 about 34 hours earlier, which had likewise been preceded by a series of smaller foreshocks. That first big M6.4 tremor on July 4, and its foreshocks, activated a southwest-northeast-trending fault across Searles Valley, causing noticeable left-lateral displacements. The larger M7.1 main event and its aftershocks spread along a northwest-southeast-oriented fault with dramatic vertical and even more dramatic right-lateral displacements on the desert floor that were locally greater than 12 feet (>3.5 meters). These two perpendicular faults cross in Searles Valley; the complexity of these displacements resembles major geologic structures in the region. They are all part what geologists have labelled the Eastern California Shear Zone.

Right-lateral Shifting. The road and Searles Valley desert floor are broken by parallel right-lateral offsets during the Ridgecrest Sequence of July 2019. These breaks mimic movement along most major California faults, including the San Andreas, though the dynamics here may be quite different. USGS.

Just to the south of Searles Valley, the east/northeast-trending Garlock Fault (transverse to most other California geologic structures) is the most dramatic left-lateral feature on the state’s landscapes. A series of aftershocks were measured along this Garlock Fault as part of this sequence that started with left-lateral faulting in the Searles Valley. In contrast, north and northwest of Searles Valley are the numerous Basin and Range horsts and grabens of uplifted rugged mountains and down-dropped desert valleys cut along more common right lateral and vertical faults that trend north into the Basin and Range’s Death Valley, Panamint Valley, Owens Valley, and their adjacent mountain ranges. The main 7.1 earthquake (more aligned with tectonic activity and geologic structures common to the north) was followed by aftershocks that eventually rippled all the way up toward Olancha and the Owens Valley, which is also being dropped down below the dramatic vertical faulting that lifts the eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains. You might imagine how extensional forces are tearing at the crust in this region as the Pacific Plate to the west shears toward the northwest and away from this western edge of the North American Plate. And so, there is Searles Valley, at the northern edge of the Mojave Desert and the southern edge of the Basin and Range, being broken by tectonic forces common to two major physiographic provinces.

Dramatic Surface Ruptures. Geologists examine lateral and horizontal displacements along the fault that cut through Searles Valley in July 2019, triggering the largest earthquake within California’s borders during the past two decades.
Remarkable Vertical Displacement. USGS & California Geological Survey geologists measured this impressive more than 10 feet (>3m) high fault scarp. This was considered to be the fault location exhibiting the greatest vertical displacements (or the primary tectonic rupture zone) during the largest (M7.1) of earthquakes that jolted the region in July 2019.  USGS.

Such recent and ancient tectonic activity has lifted adjacent and more distant mountain ranges above a downwarped Searles Valley. An amazing mélange of rock formations many millions of years old have been exposed on these desert mountain slopes. Those rocks with their assorted chemistries continue to weather and crumble into smaller pieces that can be transported by wind or the rare downpours that will deliver mud and debris flows through desert canyons and into the valleys. These materials are further broken down into finer sediments and dissolved chemicals that can be deposited on valley floors. With no outlets to drain these inland basins, they are stranded and often baked into desert playas with their high concentrations of salts. 

Taking Samples from the Fissure. Geologists from the United States Geological Survey inspect the fault and take samples from accumulated layers of fine sediments and precipitates in the fractured desert playa, all exposed by the July 2019 Ridgecrest Earthquake Sequence. Seismologists and other earth scientists found a dynamic laboratory that would spawn years of research and inform us about the science of plate tectonics so that we can better understand and prepare for earthquakes.

But it hasn’t always been so dry here. More than 11,000 years ago, when the climate was cooler and wetter and glaciers were carving the distant Sierra Nevada, a chain of Pleistocene lakes connected many of these desert basins. You can also learn more about them in our publication. Searles Valley filled with more than 600 feet (about 200m) of water. These inland lakes would eventually vanish as conditions evolved into the warmer and drier periods that ended the Ice Ages and characterize today’s climates and landscapes. Thick layers of minerals were precipitated as the trapped waters evaporated over thousands of years. Brief wetting and shallow flooding during occasional wet periods delivered and concentrated more minerals into these desert basins to be dried and baked. These carbonates, sulfates, borates, and halides rich in sodium and potassium have encouraged commercial mining operations here ever since prospector John W. Searles recognized their value. Searles established the San Bernardino Borax Mining Company in the 1870s and gained attention for using his mule teams to haul borax out of Searles Valley, through Salt Wells (AKA Poison) Canyon, so that it could eventually be delivered all the way to San Pedro.  

Below the Lake. Horizontal strandlines on this slope above the train tracks overlook Searles Valley near Trona Pinnacles. They are ancient shorelines shaped by waves. During a cooler and wetter period more than 11,000 years ago, runoff from distant mountains filled this valley with a lake more than 600 feet deep. A series of these endorheic lakes (Lake Manly in Death Valley was even larger) accumulated in California’s desert basins until many were finally connected. Warming and drying climates at the end of the Ice Ages isolated them again and evaporated their trapped waters, concentrating salts and other minerals into dry desert playas.
Landscapes from the Ice Ages. Informative signs at Trona Pinnacles encourage curious visitors to imagine how landscapes and natural history have evolved here.      
Signs of Past Human Activity. Extraction of valuable minerals began in 1873 when John Searles started mining and figured out how to use mule teams to haul borax out of this valley.

After Searles’ death and throughout the 1900s, mining companies that operated in this valley evolved through good and bad times with different owners and names. The small company town of Trona also grew as the railroad made it more accessible since the early 1900s; the highway (today’s 178) made further connections. By the mid-1900s, Trona had become a mining boom town with a population soaring over 6,000. Today, Searles Valley Minerals continues to pump brine from below the mostly dry lake so that it can be processed into an astonishing variety of tons of valuable mineral products that include borax and boric acid.

Big Mining, Past and Present. Various mining companies have extracted valuable minerals from the valley floor for more than a century. The mining boom peaked during the mid-1900s when Trona had grown to more than 6,000 people. Today’s Searles Valley Minerals is part of a multinational corporation that controls the destiny of a much smaller and quieter town. It employed about 700 workers before the July 2019 earthquakes interrupted operations. The company hauls tons of valuable minerals out of this valley, many that are eventually shipped out of California ports to more than 50 countries.
Trains replaced the mules and connected this valley to the outside world during the early 1900s. More than a century later, Highway 178 serves as today’s human long-distance link, but trains still haul tons of minerals/day to California ports from Searles Valley Minerals. 

And it’s not all about work. More than a thousand mineral and geology enthusiasts flood the valley during the annual October Gem-O-Rama, when Trona and surroundings are packed with excited visitors who participate in field trips sponsored by the Searles Lake Gem & Mineral Society. The few small local museums, stores, and eateries become the center of at least 36 hours of fame when folks show and share their rock and mineral and lapidary arts collections, and venture out on the playa. They are guided to collect spectacular crystals that include some of the finest samples of six-sided hanksite in the world and beautiful specimens of pink halite that have been stained by salt-loving bacteria. These annual gatherings are advertised as the most exciting mineral collecting field trips in the U.S. (After more than 75 years of tradition, these treasure hunts were temporarily cancelled in 2019 due to lingering infrastructure damage from the earthquakes, and scratched again during the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic.)  

Modern Day Recreational Prospecting. Each October, Searles Lake Gem and Mineral Society sponsors their annual Gem-O-Rama. More than a thousand people converge on this little town to participate in festivities that include rock, mineral, and gem shows, lapidary arts, and vendors from around the country. Spectacular hanksite and pink halite crystals are among the treasures harvested from what are advertised as some of the finest mineral collecting field trips in the nation, when participants are allowed to venture out into the dry lakebed. Recovery from the July 2019 earthquakes forced cancelation for the first time in more than 75 years. Organizers were forced to cancel again in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic. 

We can appreciate that had it not been for the tectonic activity that has been dropping and isolating these desert basins and lifting surrounding mountain ranges, these mineral-laden desert playas would not exist. It is more than ironic that the seismic activity of July 2019 we examine here had visibly damaged one of the tall Searles Valley Minerals chimneys that erupt as dominant landmarks above this valley, as if humans were trying to recreate the nearby Trona Pinnacles.

Below the Ancient Lake. High cirrus clouds that help frame the Trona Pinnacles could be drifting off distant storms that very rarely make it into this desert valley that averages less than 4 inches (<10cm) of rain each year. This other-worldly-landscape has served as backdrop for a multitude of photo shoots and video, TV, and movie productions.
Tufa Towers Geology. Bureau of Land Management signage is a welcome sight for natural history buffs searching for explanations at Trona Pinnacles.

The July 2019 Ridgecrest Earthquake Sequence even knocked a few of the more precarious rocks and boulders down from those Trona Pinnacles across the valley. This is a roughly 15-square-mile accumulation of tufa spires that rise over 100 feet above Searles Dry Lake. These towers that define natural landscape oddities were forming more than 11,000 years ago as underground springs transported calcium up to meet the carbonates that were becoming more concentrated in the evaporating inland lake. Algae bonded to these calcium carbonate deposits, growing the tufa reefs that emerged as the drying and warming climate finished off the lake. (You might notice some of the stranded ancient shoreline contours, or strandlines, along slopes that ring the valley.) As a National Natural Landmark, the Trona Pinnacles have earned recognition from landscape admirers and gained attention in the numerous movies and TV productions that have exploited them, often as background scenery to simulate the topography on other planets, at least in our imaginations.

Calcium Carbonate Sculptures. When calcium erupted from natural springs at the bottom of the ancient lake, it combined with carbonates that were especially concentrated as the water evaporated. Bonding algae played its role as the Trona Pinnacles grew under water. The lake dried up at the end of the Ice Ages, leaving these formations to weather and crumble in the harsh desert climate. A few of the more delicate and precarious towers experienced “damage” during the July 2019 earthquakes.
Tufa Towers People. Discarded bones of Ice Age animals and other evidence suggest that Native Americans gathered and hunted around the lake as it was drying up many thousands of years ago. Those early invaders may have even accelerated the extinctions of some species. Today’s human invaders are mostly visitors looking for learning experiences that seem foreign to their daily urban lives.    

We can also blame tectonic activity for building the Coast Ranges and Sierra Nevada Mountains to the west, as they have been blocking moist air masses that would otherwise invade from the Pacific and bring precipitation and accumulated runoff that might dissolve and dilute these mineral deposits.  As with other California desert basins, air masses can only invade Searles Valley by flowing down the very mountains that have already wrung out moisture from otherwise promising storms, resulting in more compressional heating and drying by the time they reach the valley floor, at about 1,700 feet above sea level. With average annual precipitation below 4 inches (<10cm), exceptionally low specific humidities, and relative humidities frequently below 10%, this alkaline dust bowl remains nearly as dry as Death Valley and one of the driest places on Earth. You can also thank the dry continental air masses for summer daytime high temperatures that average well above 100 degrees and overnight lows in winter that average around freezing. Winter’s coldest storms can even deliver a rare dusting of “dry” snow. Abundant sunshine rules year round, but radiation escapes quickly and temperatures usually plummet after sunset. Add the occasional fierce winds and you have classic desert extremes that many people, plants, and animals may consider hostile.

Dazzling Colors Follow Winter. During spring, following the cool season’s lower evapotranspiration rates and brief showers, the soil around Trona Pinnacles is often moist enough to support a variety of species that display many colors of the rainbow. Their common and scientific names often match their uniquely ornamental characteristics. This is certainly the case for Eremalche rotundifolia, or desert fivespot.  This mostly lower desert dicot is an annual herb native to California’s southeastern deserts and into the southern Basin and Range. You are most likely to catch it blooming in March, April, or May.
Fleeting Spring Colors. You will also find an array of yellow desert wildflowers blooming in spring in and around Searles Valley. Many of these species have familiar names that include poppies, primrose, and yellow cups. Geraea canescens (desert sunflower) is another native annual herb that blooms in spring and it is common around the Trona Pinnacles. But don’t blink. These species will quickly exhaust available resources as summer promises to bring the intense radiation, soaring temperatures, rock bottom low humidities, and dehydrated soils that can wither these plants within days.

And so it is not surprising that the plants and animals that survive around here must be adapted to extreme aridity and the wild variations in radiation and temperature. Although you may encounter Joshua Trees and other high desert woodlands while climbing into cooler and more moist surrounding mountains, the valley is only decorated with the most resilient desert scrub (such as desert holly) and brief spring wildflower blooms. As you approach the floor of the valley, limiting factors multiply, as only the most salt-tolerant plants can survive in what becomes an increasingly toxic soil. Parts of this desert erupt with activity during the brief spring blooms that can attract many animal species. These include a wide variety of insects, various herbivores, and their predators. Ravens, prairie falcons, and peregrine falcons may soar above horned lizards, desert iguanas, kangaroo rats, desert tortoises, coyotes, and kit foxes. Some species, such as falcons and tortoises, are highly sensitive to human disturbances in these fragile ecosystems. Please remain especially distant from falcon nests, as they are often built in the very cavities that people enjoy exploring.

Students were surprised to accidentally discover this unguarded nest. Prairie falcons (and occasionally, peregrine falcons) are among the few species that build nests at Trona Pinnacles. Unfortunately for the birds, falcons often nest in the same cavities that may attract curious hiking and climbing explorers, human and otherwise. Overwhelmed wildlife managers keep busy trying to protect the nests and educate the public.
More Mineral Madness. More signage at Trona Pinnacles is designed to educate the public about the enormous variety of rich minerals that have formed and are now scattered across this valley.

Beyond social media, today’s Searles Valley and its Trona is connected to the world mostly through the many human passersby on Hwy 178 who are headed for Death Valley National Park or other popular ecotourist hot spots. Still, more powerful global connections exist that may not, at first, be as evident in this isolated desert town. The dominant company (Searles Valley Minerals) is a subsidiary of a major international corporation as it ships tons of mineral products each day to California ports and then to at least 52 different countries. The community is dependent on this company that provides necessities for its residents and employs more than 700 people. Many of the other families are anchored by workers who provide essential services in this company town.

Small Town Cultures. The learning about small towns such as this one begins as you approach them on the only highway in and out. Churches often form the center of social life for the adherents and even the not-so-religious and agnostics in small-town California. Even in little Trona, you will find a wide diversity of organized religious and other less-organized spiritual groups, though most are Christian. This signage suggests a tilt toward the more traditional and conservative.
More History and Culture Clues. Small town restaurants must often rely on some balanced combination of local word-of-mouth referrals and signage to attract hungry passersby along the lone highway. Such advertisements are often required for survival. This beloved eatery was literally cracked into temporary closure by the July 2019 earthquakes. But, they were back serving take out into 2021, within sink-or-swim survival modes often fueled by social media.

After the July 2019 earthquakes hit, Trona’s people (less than 2,000 within census-designated Searles Valley, but thousands more in surrounding communities) and its schools and its cultures were thrust into the national and global spotlights. Clamoring for the latest compelling stories, national media converged on and then unveiled what some popular culture urban observers considered foreign or unimaginable, as folks weighed the advantages and disadvantages of living in such seclusion. For instance, it was shown that roughly 250 students populate the Trona Joint Unified School District that includes one elementary and one high school. When the local high school (The Tornadoes) football team gained praise for training on the only known all-dirt field in the nation, the power of limitations quickly became apparent. The harsh climate and high salt content in the soils and the lack of financial resources eliminated traditional turf options on what became known as “The Pit.” Unreliable attendance from the small pool of young athletes necessitated 8-man football. As unlikely students and other locals were interviewed, a common thread emerged: the kids and adults here are tough and their resilience would carry them through earthquake recovery in this place that requires adaptations to limitations.

Work Day in a Company Town. Most of the activity and cars congregate around Searles Valley Minerals during workdays. This subsidiary of a multinational corporation is the economic heartbeat of this desert valley.

The power of social media continues to add to the push and pull factors that tempt young people and others to move out and on, toward what they may perceive as better and more exciting opportunities. It certainly is not the booming mining community that grew to over 6,000 people in the mid-1900s. But you will also find great pride within the people and cultures that have developed in this community. You don’t see locals running on the endless treadmills that torture California city dwellers struggling just to make ends meet so they can pay rents or mortgages that rank highest in the nation. Here, the average cost of a home is well below the national average; you can still buy a modest house on a large lot for less than $100,000. There are multiple apartments and small houses around the greater region (that includes Ridgecrest) renting for less than $1,000/month. Seismologists and engineers have already used some of them as examples of how modern earthquake building codes kept damage and losses in the region much lower in the relatively new construction, compared to the oldest structures. The result is more housing inventory remained after the earthquakes so that fewer people were tempted or forced to move on to those other horizons and opportunities. 

An Evolving Mural. Thousands of quieter years passed after the Pleistocene lake evaporated and a harsher climate limited the number of Native Americans that could roam through this valley. By the 1870s, Searles used mules to haul out valuable minerals that had precipitated in the dry lake bed. By the early 1900s, trains appeared, followed by other technologies that led to a mining boom town that thrived during the mid-1900s. As the company names changed, Searles Valley’s official population eventually shrunk to today’s less than 2,000. “Trona Strong” remains a battle cry among residents who might share different interpretations of this mural.

This dusty, solitary place feels perfectly separate and disconnected from the mild climates and overcrowded, unaffordable giant urban centers closer to the coast, on the opposite sides of the great California ranges. Searles Valley may even appear other worldly to urban dwellers celebrating their popular cultures. Here is where primary extractive industries fuel a different kind of economic system where the cost of living and household incomes remain well below the state average. It’s easy to find peace and quiet, there are more than enough bright stars to count at night, and a wealth of desolate, crystalline desert and mountain landscapes call out to the adventurer. Life is slower paced within these more traditional cultures where neighbors know one another and people may live and celebrate “Trona Strong.”

Not a Ghost Town. This Post Office and County Building (Trona is on the northwestern edge of California’s largest county: San Bernardino) suggest that this town has seen larger populations and better days. But, most folks are at work (Searles Valley Minerals is located just down the street) or at school and few travelers were wandering along the main road through town on this day.
Small Town Services. Trona’s Senior Center was also quiet on this day. Locals and San Bernardino County officials struggle with limited resources to provide services to the relatively small number of older folks who remain at this outpost and might be in need. Many seniors that have developed medical conditions in these remote California settlements have been forced to move closer to cities and hospitals that offer expeditious emergency medical care. Damaging earthquakes can create additional unexpected challenges.
Passing Trona High School. This is one of the last images you might remember as you drive north out of Trona. Their high school was so heavily damaged by the July 2019 earthquakes, students and programs were forced to use the town’s elementary school facilities while repairs were completed. In the earthquake aftermath, media from around the nation and the world converged on these high school students and teachers, known as The Trona Tornadoes, to learn what it was like to grow up and work in such a small town setting in this remote desert valley.

Searles Valley and other remote places may define the other California, but they are powerfully connected to the world and to rest of us by a lot more than natural resources, the chemicals we use each day, and social media. These connections become especially evident when seismic waves ripple through our communities from another distant and different place. They will announce the latest earthquake that is building mountains and rearranging landscapes and creating new victims of the very powerful forces that continue to sculpt such a spectacular and diverse California. Nature will connect us whether we like it or not. We wonder: which landscapes are soon to be rearranged and who might be the next “victims”?

Learning Experiences from Landscapes. Our students were among the many science students and programs that have cycled through Searles Valley each year. Unique desert landscapes that include Trona Pinnacles offer perfect laboratories for studying natural history and science on the dry side of California’s great mountain ranges.
More Basin and Range. The road north out of Searles Valley will take you over the next mountain range and down into the next basin to examine the topography that gave this physiographic region its name. The Panamint Range, with its colorful rock formations that date back to the Paleozoic Era, has been lifted above Panamint Valley by a series of parallel faults that may sound familiar by now. Alluvial fans, made of layers of violent debris flows that have accumulated over centuries, radiate out of deep canyons and into the valleys, partially covering many of the fresh fault scarps. The larger materials are stranded on these arid fan-shaped aprons and bajadas, but dissolved salts and other chemicals make it all the way out to the salt playa. There, they have been combining with the minerals that precipitated out of those evaporating Pleistocene lakes more than 10,000 years ago. Nearby Death Valley may be the most famous example, but we’ve seen this movie before, and these landscapes cry out for more attention.

This story was informed by scientists from the United States Geological Survey, Seismological Society of America, Southern California Earthquake Center, California Geological Survey, Bureau of Land Management, and the Searles Lake Gem and Mineral Society. 

A few other sources:

View this short video about Trona, created by ghost towns and mines enthusiast Ray Dunakin, just three weeks after the earthquakes:

Here is the Bureau of Land Management introduction to Trona Pinnacles: https://www.blm.gov/visit/trona-pinnacles

Here is information about the Searles Lake Gem and Mineral Society’s Annual Gem-O-Rama Field Trips: http://www1.iwvisp.com/tronagemclub/General-info.htm

Check out the Kim Stringfellow’s Mojave Art Project and her coverage of the annual Gem-O-Rama on KCET:
https://www.kcet.org/shows/artbound/gem-o-rama-mojave-playa-interventions-part-ii

 

The post Desert Quakes and Ancient Lakes: Geopostcards from Searles Valley first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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California Burning, 2020 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/california-burning-2020/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=california-burning-2020 https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/california-burning-2020/#comments Fri, 18 Sep 2020 17:11:24 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2260 A few months ago, in the spring of 2020, we shared stories about our oddly inverted 2019-2020 rainy season and the longer-term climate changes impacting California. As we slid...

The post California Burning, 2020 first appeared on Rediscovering the Golden State.

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A few months ago, in the spring of 2020, we shared stories about our oddly inverted 2019-2020 rainy season and the longer-term climate changes impacting California. As we slid into what started as routinely stagnant and unremarkable summer weather patterns, we hoped to turn our attention toward the diversity of stories that combine to make our state’s geography so golden. But nature had other plans and we are now forced to focus on what has become – for weeks – a top national and global news story in a year already filled with tragedy: two unprecedented late summer weather patterns and the resulting fire storms have rampaged across California and surrounding states, terrorizing residents, and leaving catastrophic paths of death and destruction.

Warning Before the Fires. The California Public Utilities Commission circulated this Fire-Threat Map more than two years before the 2020 firestorms. Similar maps typically use many variables to anticipate risks around our expanding wildlands-urban interface. Extensive portions of the shaded areas burned in 2020 when more than 3% of the state was incinerated in less than a month.

The stories and images and data continue to resemble science fiction rather than anything we thought we could experience, even after the warning signs from previous years that have been outlined in our publication and this project. As of this writing, more than 20 out-of-control wildfires have been burning for weeks that include the first, third, and fourth largest wildfires in state history. By the middle of September, 2020, more landscape burned (well over 3 million acres, more than 3% of the entire state) compared to any other year as we just entered into our traditional fire season. (By mid-October, more than 4 million acres (4% of the state) was scorched.) Though California fires raged from Oregon to the Mexican border and from the coast to the Nevada border, neighboring western states were also burning, roughly doubling the total charred acreage. Entire towns have been leveled in Washington and Oregon as 1 out of 10 residents in Oregon were under evacuation orders. Heroic firefighters and other public servants and volunteers have been exhausted trying to establish a sense of order while surrounded by an atmosphere that feels as out-of-control as in any time in state history. The apocalypse red and orange skies of smoke that blanketed our state have sickened millions. How did we get here so quickly and how will we get out of this mess?

Unprecedented 2020. Wild fluctuations in carbon emissions (in millions of tons) from California fires are mostly dependent on weather patterns during each fire year. The startling 2020 data covers only up to mid-September. By October, you could add about 25% to that 2020 bar. Graphic: Joshua Stevens / NASA Earth Observatory

We have dedicated a lot of time and space in our publication and on this web site to research that might help us understand the fires we are experiencing. We know that four of the big culprits are climate change, forest and wildland management, the introduction of nonnative invasive species, and our reckless encroachment into wild places. (You will find a more detailed essay about forest management after the end of this story.) But it is our unforgivable historical ignorance about the natural systems and cycles that surround us in Mediterranean environments that are adapted to and even sculpted by occasional fires, which brings these factors together to create the most deadly and disastrous fire storms.

A Hint of Subtropical Instability. After a relatively unremarkable early summer, 2020, patterns changed in the middle of August. Dying tropical disturbances were drawn north along the California coast, caught within the clockwise flow of air around an expanding high pressure system to our east. Unfortunately, the remaining marginal instability didn’t include enough moisture to produce prolonged, soaking rainfall. Instead, only a few passing showers and a lot of virga (precipitation that evaporates before reaching the surface) decorated the skies.

We know that our cool, wet winters nurture growth, but are followed by long, dry summers that can dehydrate the hardiest plant communities and challenge them to survive, even in average years, until the first rains of autumn. The iconic climate that helped make California powerful and famous has partnered with climate change, and is now threatening to destroy us. The curse of the wildlands urban interface (known as WUI) is that we dared long-established natural forces by ignoring them to develop and expand our at-risk communities, forcing nature to teach us painful lessons about who is in charge.    

Subtropical Sunsets, Mid-August, 2020. Altocumulus were among the middle-altitude clouds that painted our sunsets as spent tropical systems spun off the southern California coast and became extra tropical, removed from the warm ocean waters that once fed them. Eventually, the trains of moisture and instability rotated north up the coast and then turned northeast, making landfall as spectacular electrical storms in central and northern California.

This summer’s nightmare started last winter when parts of central and northern California (such as the Bay Area) suffered from another record drought that included the entire January-February period that normally marks the peak of the rainy season, and the first February ever with no recorded precipitation. By spring, expanses of northern and central California were left with only about half of their average total precipitation and far less than even southern California received for the season. We walked you through this geographically inverted rainy season in a previous story on this web page.

High Pressure Edges West, August 13. We will use these 500mb charts from San Francisco State University to follow the upper-level pressure and air flow patterns that determine our weather. Here, note the expanding high pressure over the desert southwest. The clockwise rotation of winds out of that high brought a dead tropical-turned-extra tropical system into the California bight, announcing the statewide pattern change.

Summer began relatively mild, but there were hints of trouble to our east. A strong and stubborn high pressure system anchored over the desert southwest and occasionally wobbled toward southeastern California during July. This blocked out most monsoon moisture and compressed the air to produce record heat in Arizona and New Mexico that encroached into California’s southeastern deserts. By the end of July, much of Arizona (including Phoenix) had broken several high temperature records, including the hottest month ever recorded and – by far – the greatest number of days with temperatures above 110. Their heat continued into August, but the ominous high pressure system began to expand and migrate west toward California and Nevada.

Thunderstorms Build. By August 15, winds flowing out of the southeast around that building desert southwest high pressure were advecting moisture up from Mexico across southern California. Afternoon heating along mountain barriers forced the moist air to rise and cool to its dew point until cumulus built into cumulonimbus and afternoon thunderstorms. The annual summer “monsoon” had finally arrived in our local mountains and deserts, but it was fleeting and wouldn’t stop there as the moisture was quickly pushed farther north. We look over the caves, cormorants, pelicans, sea lions, and snorkelers of La Jolla Cove and toward inland mountains of San Diego County.

California’s deserts had already been baking, but the high center was strengthening and its compressionally-heated air masses were nudging toward the Golden State. Inland temperatures sizzled until Death Valley topped out at 130 degrees in mid August. This approached the hottest temperature (134) ever recorded there, but it could be the hottest temperature ever confirmed on Earth at an official weather station with a reliable thermometer (see an earlier story on this web site). By this time, record high temperatures were being recorded around the state, particularly at inland stations closer to the center of upper level high pressure.

Tropical Moisture Streams North. This NOAA image shows moisture content in the atmosphere. By August 16, the desert southwest high had nudged toward California, spinning air clockwise from the south and over the state. As if simulating a modified atmospheric river, bands of moist air were dragged from tropical waters off the west coast of Mexico parallel to the Baja coast, eventually turning into California. They were further drawn into the counterclockwise flow of the upper-level low off the Pacific Northwest coast and destabilized. Numerous electrical storms came ashore in central and northern California and then dragged inland, sparking hundreds of fires from thousands of cloud-to-ground lightning strikes. NOAA/NESDIS/STAR GOES ABI BAND 09. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

The strength and position of this high pressure system was remarkable, not just because it clamped a lid on the already heated air masses that plagued California. The clockwise motion of air spinning around the high connected with tropical moisture and disturbances west of Mexico, driving them from south-to-north off and along the California coast. (This monsoon-style moisture train usually flows from Mexico up into the desert southwest during late summer as a smaller high pressure center normally positions closer to the four corners region.)

Unusual “Monsoon” in Northern California? The upper-level high that is normally anchored over the four corners region in summer has greatly expanded and nudged toward Nevada. Note the tropical air masses and disturbances as they are dragged from west of Mexico around the high and delivered into central and northern California as they turn toward the northeast. Source: San Francisco State University.

Moist, unstable air masses gradually veered toward the northeast around the massive high and ahead of a counterclockwise spinning low pressure system off the Pacific Northwest coast. Batches of subtropical moisture, exhausted tropical disturbances, and instability flowed up the coast and inland into central and northern California. The bands of moisture had just enough energy to trigger spectacular electrical storms that trained off the ocean toward the coast (where summer thunderstorms are almost unheard of in the normally stable summer air masses) and over inland mountains. But the mostly high-based cumulonimbus clouds often didn’t drop enough rainfall to snuff out the hundreds of fires sparked by thousands of lightning strikes that lit up mountain slopes from the coast to Nevada. Last winter’s drought would conspire with the unusual “dry” lightning and the intense heat wave to produce the most destructive series of fires in California history.

“Firenado” Goes Viral. Numerous out-of-control fires followed northern California electrical storms in mid-August. This Loyalton wildfire, in northeastern California’s Lassen County north of Tahoe, created its own weather. An already unstable atmosphere was heated by the fire, causing the air to rise rapidly and form a magnificent pyrocumulonimbus cloud. Doppler radar showed up to five separate vortices whirling into this firestorm, forcing the National Weather Service to issue an unheard-of fire tornado warning for the area. Turbulent winds could reach over 100 mph in these fire tornadoes on uneven surfaces. Though this image was sometimes credited to BBC and Reuters, it went viral on social media.

Eventually, the powerful high pressure system that helped produce these conflagrations weakened and backed off. A relatively cooler onshore flow gave especially northern Californians a brief chance to catch up with the numerous fires.

Smoke Clouds Gather, August 21. The subtropical monsoon-like electrical storms are gone, but their fires are raging in central and northern California, sending smoke clouds that are just hints of the future. Firefighters were hopeful that the brief respite in heat and the refreshing southwest breezes off the Pacific would aid their efforts. But, another and even stronger high pressure system would build over California within about a week, bringing a brutal and historic heat wave. Note the latest dying tropical system spinning off the coast of Baja at the bottom of the image, the isolated thunderstorms popping up over southern California mountains, and the smoke already settling in the Central Valley. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Battle Between Cool and Hot. An upper level trough off the Pacific Northwest Coast bumps against high pressure over the southwest, driving cooling breezes from the Pacific over northern California. This more “normal” late-summer weather pattern would not hold. Source: San Francisco State University.
Returning to Normal? The marine layer reasserts itself as more normal summer weather patterns seem to be returning by August 24. Many of the mostly lightning-sparked fires continue to spill smoke that settles in the Central Valley. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Owens Valley Smoke. By late August, onshore breezes had spread smoke from California wildfires over the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Visibility was obscured as it settled in the Owens Valley. This is normally a crystal clear view over the Alabama Hills toward the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Locals referred to their predicament as living in the Owens Valley “smoke bowl”.
Enhanced Aspenglow. Defined as the glow of mountaintops during sunrise or sunset, you will notice the aspenglow as we look across Tioga Lake and toward the moon and Mt. Dana in the high Sierra Nevada Mountains. Though westerly winds skim over the mountaintops and refresh the air at this elevation in late August, you might still notice the clouds’ brighter orange glows. These clouds finally condensed from the lifting of moist air off the Pacific so they could reflect the sunlight made deeper orange and red by smoke from fires still burning on the other side of the mountains.
Crepuscular Cumulus. Though refreshing upper-level westerly breezes cleared much of the smoke from the higher eastern Sierra Nevada peaks in late August, there were enough smaller particulates remaining to enhance these crepuscular rays radiating around this towering cumulus just before sunset.
Another Bad Omen? Stable onshore breezes streamed over the mountains and into southern California’s western Antelope Valley, fanning this late-August fire and spreading yet another smoke cloud over yet another California region. It was just the latest small example of what would become a much bigger problem as high pressure would rebuild and winds would shift to bring a punishing heat wave within a week.

But, another powerful high pressure quickly built over the state by early September before the fires could be controlled. As forecast, it eventually anchored just inland over Nevada and wobbled over California and Oregon, eventually squeezing up against a deep, early-season upper level low dropping down the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Intense pressure gradients between the two systems compressed very dry air masses and sent them toward the coast as an offshore flow that was further compressed down mountain slopes, heated, and dried. National Weather Service warnings had become reality.

Massive High Pressure Dominates. By early September, a monster upper level high pressure system was building over the state. Weather forecasters were warning of record high temperatures and extreme fire danger in the days ahead as the compressed air masses become super heated and the marine layer is pushed out to sea. Source: San Francisco State University.
Strongest High Pressure, Record High Temperatures. By Labor Day Weekend, some of the highest levels of 500mb were recorded over Nevada and California. The global average height is around 560dm (5,600m or 18,000 feet), but you can see 500mb up to 6,011m at the center of this powerful, massive high pressure system. The towering system compressed dense air toward the surface until record high temperatures were measured across the state. Source: San Francisco State University.
No Refreshing Breezes Here. Note on the same day (September 6) the massive 1034mb surface high pressure that dominates off the Pacific coast, extending into western states. For comparison, global surface air pressure averages around 1013mb. No storms or sea breezes are going to sneak through this barrier with surface winds turning clockwise around it. Source: San Francisco State University.
Making Things Worse. Record heat would continue through the next day as the upper level high pressure expanded out over the Pacific and over the western states. New fires exploded in the dry heat and winds. Source: San Francisco State University.
Swirling the Smoke, Waiting for Disaster. As a pitiful marine layer tries to form along the southern California bight, it begins to mix with the smoke. High pressure has squashed, capped, and trapped accumulating smoke from multiple fires during this epic heat wave. As the skies across the state turn orange and red, note the direction of the wind and smoke in northern California and Oregon. Firefighters are about to experience a dramatic switch in the winds. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Fresh Smoke Clouds. As pressure gradients turn more offshore during the record Labor Day weekend heat wave, smoke from multiple fires pours over major cities. Here, fresh smoke from a wildfire in inland San Diego county drifted over La Jolla. Note it is not yet orange or red as in thicker layers or during sunset or sunrise, since this thinner layer allows many colors of the spectrum to pass through. Also note the small pyrocumulus fractus clouds attempting to form around condensation nuclei.

These unusually early-season Diablo winds in northern California and Santa Ana-like winds in southern California rejuvenated the existing fires and fanned new fires like blowtorches. It is notable that firefighters in Oregon used “blowtorch” to describe “powerful winds from the east that blasted fires down mountain slopes to incinerate entire towns.” These accounts from Oregon are very familiar to Californians during autumn, but this was only Labor Day weekend.

Offshore Nightmare. By September 8, an unusually early upper level low pressure system (far right) had dropped down into the Rocky Mountains, creating a stronger pressure gradient between it and our west coast high. Powerful winds had turned dramatically offshore in northern California and Oregon, creating that “blowtorch effect” of hot, dry winds out of the east that would blow walls of flames through entire communities and push smoke clouds hundreds of miles out to sea. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

Aloft, the center of the towering, high pressure air mass even breached historic thresholds of 600 decameters (or 6,000m) altitude. This measures the height of 500mb pressure (roughly halfway through a column of air in our atmosphere, that midpoint averaging around 5,600m altitude (about 18,000 feet)). Temperatures soared over 100 degrees along the coasts from San Diego to San Francisco.

Stuck Under the High. The next day (September 9), the upper level high pressure that helped orchestrate the heat wave, winds, and fire calamities was stuck over the west coast, blocking any form of relief, flanked by two low pressure systems with no mechanism to move them.

A few miles inland, scores of records were broken, and some of them were the highest temperatures ever recorded for those locations. In southern California, the hottest temperatures ever recorded west of the low deserts included Woodland Hills at 121 F (highest ever in L.A. County) and Chino and Fillmore at 120. Downtown L.A. peaked at 111 degrees, while numerous coastal valley locations also breached 110. Just across the border, coastal Tijuana, Mexico, reported 109 F. Farther north, Solvang and San Luis Obispo breached 120 degrees. Stockton heated to 111 and Napa hit 120. UC Berkeley Lab, at about 888 feet elevation, experienced one day with a high of 108 degrees F and an overnight low of 87. Calfire crews and local firefighters were outgunned by nature as fires exploded and tore through plant communities and human communities. All of this leaves us with scenes of unprecedented devastation. 

Stagnant and Smoking. By September 10, California and western Oregon were experiencing the worst air quality in the world. It would become the worst air quality ever measured over such a long period of time across such a large area of the state. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.

Besides the communities and homes that have burned throughout the west, an area larger than some eastern states has been scorched. Entire national forests were shut down to protect visitors from getting trapped after so many were rescued, while the less fortunate never made it out of more remote landscapes. It would take weeks or more to find the remains of all the missing victims.

Capped and Stationary. The stubborn, persistent upper level high pressure capped our air masses as they subsided toward the surface. Breezes occasionally oscillated between gently onshore and offshore, swirling the accumulating smoke that choked the skies and the residents of Oregon and California. Source: San Francisco State University.
Welcome to the Orange Beach. During and after Labor Day weekend, accumulating smoke from western wildfires was capped and trapped by stagnant, blocking high pressure. Layers of smoke particles grew thicker. Just as smaller molecules in a pristinely clear sky selectively scatter the shorter wavelengths of the visible spectrum (such as violets and blues closer to 0.4 micrometers), the larger smoke particles selectively scatter longer wavelengths (such as orange and red, closer to 0.7 micrometers) toward our eyes and cameras.

Meanwhile, it is not surprising that the measured air quality had never been so bad across the entire state for such a long period. Layers of smoke particles that had already interfered with the shorter-wavelengths of the visible spectrum (such as blues) are efficient in selectively scattering the longer-wavelength (closer to 0.7 micrometers) yellows, oranges, and reds of ROYGBIV toward the surface (known as Mie scattering), illuminating our skies in those colors. As multiple smoke plumes with particles of various sizes towered up through different layers of atmosphere, they encountered wind shear that spread them in different directions until smoke blanketed the entire state. The layers of smoke clouds grew thicker until forecasters had trouble predicting daytime temperatures that were more than five degrees cooler than under a smokeless sky. The smoke produced condensation nuclei that mixed with the marine layer to create thicker haze and smoky fogs near the coast. Subdued daytime high temperatures inland resulted in weaker afternoon temperature and pressure gradients that further calmed winds during the day.

Mass Migration to Smoky Beaches. Crowds were already gathering during early mornings on a record hot Labor Day weekend in southern California. As temperatures soared up to 120 degrees inland, even some beach temperatures hit the 90s. The marine layer would later mix with nuclei in the relentless smoke to cast eerie backgrounds and shadows.

The stagnant, capping high pressure system that followed the record heat wave resulted in gentle pressure gradients with relatively calm winds away from the fires that oscillated from slightly offshore to slightly onshore for days, swirling and settling the accumulating smoke. Besides the falling ash, smaller particulates lodged into our lungs. The eerie red and orange haze may have lasting effects on Californians’ health, just as the destruction of our ecosystems and landscapes will have lasting effects on plant communities, wildlife, and anyone who attempts to connect with nature in California. However, health officials’ research suggests that most of us will recover relatively rapidly compared to the slower process of succession that heals scorched ecosystems over many years. By the middle of September, a low pressure system approaching the Pacific Northwest would eventually usher in some refreshing breezes off the Pacific that pushed much of the smoke away and to the east of northern California. Traces of that smoke were noticed and measured across the continent all the way over the North Atlantic (see the NASA images at the end of this story).          

Red September. Numerous photos like this one in the Bay area were posted on social media by the City of San Francisco and the California Highway Patrol to warn residents to stay indoors and remind drivers to use their headlights. The layers of smoke grew thick enough to depress high temperatures by more than five degrees across California.

We will mourn the victims and use names to remember the largest fires (such as the August Complex that burned through September) in history. But every one of these latest worst “natural” disasters challenges us again to rethink our relationships with nature and to better understand the natural systems and cycles that determine whether and how we will survive and live and thrive in the Golden State. Our most recent jargon-gone-popular term, wildlands-urban interface (WUI), must also refer to the sky and the weather and climate that we all observe and interact with every day. So, we might not know what the coming autumn and winter have in store (except for the inevitable Diablo and Santa Ana winds and then the debris flows that will pour out of freshly-burned landscapes during winter storms), but we know that nature won’t be waiting for us to reconnect. We will continue our attempts to reconnect with you through our project and this web site. The following essay about forest management is one example.            

Battles Between Low and High Resume in mid-September. Stubborn high pressure holds on in the southwest as an approaching Pacific low finally spins refreshing winds counterclockwise into northern California and promises showers in Oregon. Onshore westerly winds blow smoke from Pacific Northwest fires across the continent; these smoke plumes would be observed and measured all the way over the North Atlantic. Skip down to the end of this page to view remarkable NASA images that follow the smoke. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
Upper Level Relief. By September 17, the deepening upper-level Pacific Northwest trough makes its move east, knocking off the top of the high. Quenching showers will spread over the Oregon fires and into far northern California, while southwest winds help mix and clear the smoke and drag some high-level subtropical moisture over central California. Source: San Francisco State University.
Low Pressure to the Rescue. Finally, counterclockwise circulation around the approaching north Pacific trough pushes southwesterly winds especially over northern California, scouring out much of the smoke that has plagued the state for days. Middle and upper level moisture from remnants of tropical system Karina are drawn into the flow and over central California. Showers will only make it into Oregon and northern California, but the high pressure that has dominated the state is gradually loosening its grip. Skip down to the end of this page to view beautiful NASA images that follow the smoke across the continent. Source: NOAA/National Weather Service.
We Can See our Sky Again! By September 17, layers of smoke can still be seen lingering against the mountains here in Santa Monica. But air quality was improving so that Californians could view middle- and upper-level clouds streaming overhead from the southwest, only the remnants of tropical system Karina. The two epic weather anomalies that terrorized California in late summer 2020 had passed, leaving us to wonder – and perhaps worry about – what the coming autumn and winter might bring.

Our Tragic Comedy of Errors Goes up in Flames: An Additional Essay on Forest Management in 2020

It is necessary to pause here and respond again to the media and political frenzy that has erupted over the management of California’s forests. The story is complicated and there is plenty of finger-pointing to be done. But the research always directs us back to some fundamental historic problems caused by our national obsession with chasing short-term profits and solutions that have cost us lives and fortunes in the long run.

Ranger Station Survives. The “Railroad Fire” burned more than two weeks through the Sierra National Forest before being contained in 2017. This Westfield Ranger Station was the only survivor among the historically significant buildings dating back to the 1930s and 40s that were part of the Miami Field Base, where scientific studies of bark beetles and other infestations helped inform our management of these forests near Monarch Grove and beyond.

More than a century ago, the nation’s seemingly endless western forests were viewed by many as inexhaustible resources to provide building materials and other timber products. Our national forests were often valued by the tree and the acre as dense tree farms to be cyclically logged and replanted with the fastest-growing, most valuable species in homogeneous forests that produced the greatest short-term profits, sometimes at the expense of multiple uses. It was quickly recognized that fires cut in to those profits. One of the primary reasons for establishing and funding what became the U.S. Forest Service was to organize efforts to extinguish fires as soon as they erupted. Little was known about the long-term consequences of these policies, but we now know that they disrupted thousands of years of natural evolution and succession that had produced diverse, resilient forests with rich mixes of species adapted to occasional fires. Recently, we have realized the unfortunate results of this colossal experiment that was accidentally launched during the 1800s.  

California’s Burning Bush? Chamise (Adenostoma fasciculatum) is a common chaparral shrub (aka greasewood) with flammable oils. It produces seeds that may lay dormant for years until scorched by fire. It also crown sprouts after being burned to the ground. It can burst into flames when temperatures reach 800 degrees F (427 C) as the fire advances. Scientists measure the moisture content of this plant to assess fire dangers in the chaparral, especially throughout southern and central California, where dangerous wildfires are common and there are few or no trees, usually well outside National Forest boundaries.

Too often lost in these debates is how many of our trees grow on private lands in a state where only slightly more than half of the forests were managed by the U.S. Forest Service and more than 90% of our original forests have been logged at least once. Responsible, local, private timber companies know that sustainable logging results in healthier forests that retain their long-term value. But some of these smaller companies were consumed (especially in the late 1900s) by distant absentee Wall Street financiers and larger multinational corporations to pay off debts and gain quick quarterly profits. Too often, long-term forest sustainability was a second thought. This led to more reckless overlogging and mismanagement that we are still living with.

Fire Threats Without Trees. At first glance, wildfire might be the last thing on a visitor’s mind while admiring iconic California landscapes, such as this one from Santa Barbara Harbor. But, recent wildfire catastrophes have awakened us. It is not so difficult now to understand how a wildfire, blow-torched by powerful, hot, dry, offshore winds (locally known as sundowners there), could barrel down the slopes of the not-so-distant Santa Inez Mountains, burning through hillside housing developments, and right into the harbor. Forest management plays little or no role in controlling these southern California conflagrations since they commonly burn through fire-adapted chaparral and coastal sage scrub communities. Cut down every tree in California and many of these fires will continue to rage.

During recent decades, California has responded to these historic debacles with controlled burns and other forest thinning policies over relatively small areas. But, due mainly to lack of funding and pushback from local communities, ecotourist industries, air quality management districts, and other multiple users who are temporarily inconvenienced and negatively impacted by these efforts, scientists estimate that less than 10% of our forests are being properly managed with our more informed policies. Meanwhile, U.S. Forest Service funding for these healthier forest programs has been cut as federal budgets are depleted in attempts to extinguish conflagrations that are consuming communities and threatening lives. These short-sighted funding policies have led some to sarcastically rename the National Forest Service the “National Fire Service”.

Fire Threats and Fire Breaks. A flank of the out-of-control wildfire that burned this marginal dry pine forest in the San Jacinto Mountains two years earlier was finally stopped right on the wildland-urban interface boundary, before it could destroy many mountain homes. As climates warm, these natural chaparral/woodland/forest plant community ecotones have been creeping toward higher elevations that are cooler and more moist. More frequent fires are accelerating those migrations. The good news is that the cabins and nearby town of Idyllwild gained an unintended temporary firebreak

Recently, local communities have been successfully organizing to decrease fire risks, in cooperation with the state and USFS, through the California Fire Safe Council. This is a big development in many of those wildland-urban interface (WUI) communities, where they have been thinning trees and brush and creating defensible spaces within and around their neighborhoods. These efforts even include annual property inspections with requirements that residents maintain defensible spaces around their properties. Note these excerpts from their web pages:
“The California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection (CDF) formed the California Fire Safe Council with the intent of seeing that local fire safe councils were formed with the single charge of educating the local public about fire abatement practices that can save their homes in the event of a fire.”
“Fire Safe Councils throughout California educate homeowners about community wildfire preparedness activities while working with local fire officials to design and implement projects that increase the wildfire survivability of their communities. Many Fire Safe Councils have successfully implemented such projects as hazardous-fuel-reduction projects, Community Wildfire Protection Planning, and homeowner training.”

Superheated Devastation. This is what can happen when fire invades relatively young, dense forests lacking the diversity and resilience of forests that have evolved over thousands of years. Can you see any survivors? We are in the western Sierra Nevada Mountains, nearing Yosemite Valley.

You can see that, in recent years, many Californians have been actively and often aggressively implementing policies that decrease fire risks in their communities. But, within landscapes riddled with poorly regulated developments encroaching into fire-prone ecosystems, accumulated historical mismanagement, a political atmosphere that rewards short-sighted budget cutting, and accelerating climate change, it has been too little, too late for too many communities. We face an uphill battle even with aggressive, all-out, no-holds-barred course corrections, due to the synergy of other factors that we have repeatedly outlined in our publication and this web site.  

Northern California Forest Succession. This view from the Scott Mountains and into Klamath National Forest looks across a landscape with diverse tree species. Temperature, precipitation, climate change, soil chemistry, slope exposure, fires, and logging combine with a host of other factors to determine which species survive and how these forests will evolve.

This is also because so many California fires start and burn in grassland, coastal sage scrub, chaparral, and woodland plant communities that will always grow dense and ripe for fire, but don’t involve forests of trees. Add aggressive, nonnative, invasive species (such as cheatgrass), that quickly dehydrate into flammable matchsticks from early summer until the next rainy season. Add other species that attack, weaken, and destroy our trees during unprecedented droughts, such as the bark beetles that feed on our conifers, and the mistakenly introduced Goldspotted Oak Borer that is now chewing through our Black Oaks and Canyon Live Oaks in some woodlands. Add climate change that is sucking the moisture out of plants and soils and you have the perfect science-fiction-like reality that we are living through.

Controlling Fire in a Young Forest Community? This young conifer forest in McArthur-Burney Falls State Park in northern California has been thinned and appears to be managed so that diverse species can thrive without too much crowding. Savvy California forest managers have learned that our better understanding of natural systems and cycles will lead to healthier and safer forests in the long run. The experiments and the learning continue…

Oversimplified stories about how Native Americans managed some California landscapes with fire are informative and useful, but they are only starting points in a state where more than 90% of fires are already started by humans. Things have changed. It’s the end of the world as we knew it and our short-term thinking and policies have created some complicated problems. We already understand how healthy humans need healthy ecosystems. Our challenge is to find long-term solutions and make long-term investments that will blend us back into the natural systems and cycles that nurture us, just as climate change transforms those systems.  

   

NASA Images Use Science and Technology to Display Awesome Nature

By the end of September, NASA had built some incredible images (using the latest remote sensing technologies) displaying how our biomass was burning into the atmosphere. They show West Coast smoke plumes as they were steered by surrounding pressure systems and transported east. We must share these remarkable images from that three day period, marking the end of our record heat and wind storms.

NASA Remote Sensing Magic. Scan across these satellite images in chronological order from top to bottom. Watch the high pressure system over the southwest states as it gradually begins to weaken and shift south. Notice how the upper level low pressure system (spinning counterclockwise) intensifies off the Pacific Northwest Coast and begins to move onshore. This will bring quenching showers into Oregon and down to the northern edge of California during the following days. Follow the West Coast smoke plumes as they are eventually caught between these two systems and carried into the upper level prevailing westerlies, transported across the continent, and finally steered over the North Atlantic Ocean. These same westerlies and the jet stream should gradually sag south as winter approaches, ushering in Pacific storms that should finally end this year’s fire season. Note how the meandering tropical systems interact with the smoke plumes that are drifting eastward.
(A host of satellite imagery technologies were used to build these images. Black carbon from the west coast fires data comes from the GEOS forward processing (GEOS-FP) model, which assimilates information from satellite, aircraft, and ground-based observing systems.)
Source: “NASA Earth Observatory images by Joshua Stevens, using GEOS-5 data from the Global Modeling and Assimilation Office at NASA GSFC and VIIRS data from NASA EOSDIS/LANCE and GIBS/Worldview and the Suomi National Polar-orbiting Partnership.”

 

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Climate Change in California: Questions and Answers https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/climate-change-in-california-questions-and-answers/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=climate-change-in-california-questions-and-answers Tue, 28 Jul 2020 04:06:56 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=2073 The COVID-19 pandemic reminded us of the disturbing problems that have developed in our relationships with nature within and beyond our state. We are also reminded how our responses...

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The COVID-19 pandemic reminded us of the disturbing problems that have developed in our relationships with nature within and beyond our state. We are also reminded how our responses and suggested solutions to these scientific problems must be data driven and evidence based, or we will cultivate big trouble and a lot of suffering. Even before COVID-19, countless lives and billions of dollars each year in California depended on our understanding of our natural world and how we fit in. While we focus on the COVID pandemic that is terrorizing our state, other natural systems and cycles are still working around us and impacting all of us, whether we pay attention to them or not. Living in constant crisis during this pandemic makes us far more vulnerable to the unexpected surprises-turned-catastrophes that nature could throw our way on any day. So, we’re paying attention.

From Refineries to Transportation. A few remaining California refineries produce petroleum products that fuel some of our transportation modes, emitting pollution along the way that includes CO2. Here in L.A.’s South Bay, the pollutants are mostly invisible. But on cool, moist days, moisture emitted during refining quickly condenses into low clouds.

The two previous stories on our web site used NOAA National Weather Service data to focus on the latest 2019-2020 rainy season and then to examine long-term temperature and precipitation trends for selected California locations. These stories quickly generated a series of questions that must be addressed if we are to understand the science behind climate change in California. We thank the students in Dr. Jing Liu’s Weather and Climate class for asking the questions that inspired this latest so-obviously-necessary follow-up story.

Clearing the Air. Though ozone and many dangerous and visible pollution sources have been cut by about half since the 1970s, each region, city, and community in the state continues to emit invisible CO2 measured in multiple tons/day. Here is the view on an average air quality day looking toward Hollywood from L.A.’s tallest skyscraper.

Here, we will use some of the results from a comprehensive research project, Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018. This wide-ranging study gathered available data and research, from a wealth of diverse sources, about how our climate has been changing and the impacts these changes are having on the Golden State’s natural systems and cycles and its people.

Discussions about climate change have too often become emotionally and politically contaminated, so we will strictly adhere to the scientific method as we present the facts and evidence that combine to help us understand climate change science in California. Our goal here, as always, is to maintain our integrity and build trust by presenting an objective analysis of another common issue or problem. So, we will stick to the facts to answer your questions. We challenge you to at least briefly put aside your political and personal biases so that we can objectively share this scientific analysis of climate change that is affecting every Californian, whether plant, animal, or human.

What are the natural causes of climate change in California?

Earth’s natural systems and cycles were causing and adapting to many types of dramatic climate change long before humans arrived and such fluctuations will continue long after we are gone. These gradual natural cycles that occur over many thousands or millions of years include changes in Earth’s tilt on its axis and its elliptical orbit around the sun and gradual changes in atmospheric chemistry. You only have to examine the spectacular glacial landscapes of the Sierra Nevada and Trinity Alps or the ubiquitous Ice Age fossils at such locations as the La Brea Tar Pits or Diamond Valley Reservoir to see that California was cooler and wetter just more than 11,000 years ago and again through cycles dated hundreds of thousands and even millions of years earlier. We examine much of this science and many of these landscapes in our publication.

Relatively Clean Air. The fog that settles on cool winter nights in the Bay Area and Central Valley traps some pollutants. This is in contrast to the iconic, clean, refreshing fog that rushes in during spring and summer from the cold Pacific through the Golden Gate, helping Bay Area air quality shine over L.A.’s and the San Joaquin Valley. Since invisible CO2 mixes and circulates around the world, its concentration doesn’t change that much in time and space, except it continues that steady global climb.

Through succession, our ecosystems are capable of gradually adjusting to these oscillations that may take many thousands of years. But they are punctuated by shorter-term events such as the rare larger objects from space that can impact and devastate Earth, or the greatest catastrophic volcanic eruptions that spew climate-changing volcanic debris and gases into our atmosphere and can cause immediate global cooling lasting for many months. Sun spot cycles are among the perhaps less significant natural short-term climate influencers. Our recent understanding of ENSO (El Nino-Southern Oscillation) and PDO (Pacific Decadal Oscillation) cycles remind us that large-scale changes in ocean currents off the California coast can also drive dramatic short-term shifts in our state’s weather and climate. But as scientists gathered more reliable evidence toward the end of the 1900s, it became apparent that the combined long-term natural oscillations alone would likely drive Earth into a cooler period. Just the opposite happened. 

What are the main causes of climate change today?

At the same time, meteorologists and chemists were measuring troubling changes in Earth’s atmosphere that were driven by human activity. For many prior decades, scientists understood that our atmosphere was not primarily heated directly from the top down by shortwave radiation emitted from the hotter sun, but primarily from the bottom up by longwave radiation emitted by land and ocean surfaces warmed by that initial sunlight. We all know this as the greenhouse effect. Without those greenhouse gases that allow sunlight in but then selectively absorb longwave radiation from Earth’s surfaces, California would freeze over and life as we know it would be impossible. The Golden State would quickly become the Frozen State.

Changing Ecosystems. Erratic swings in ocean water temperatures have included occasional “blobs” of warm water that have impacted native species (such as these marine mammals) and forced marine habitats (such as these tide pools) to adjust. Rising sea levels and ocean acidification are also threatening our marine environments (such as here along the Mendocino Coast) and fisheries as CO2 levels rise.

We know that these greenhouse gases that include water vapor, carbon dioxide, methane, and nitrogen oxides, are the thermal regulators for our atmosphere and their concentrations are increasing fast. We now have far more CO2 in our atmosphere than during at least the last million years, as technologies help us push those reliable measurements further back into the geologic record. And we have measured and confirmed that the main source of these growing CO2, methane, nitrogen oxides, and other greenhouse gases is human activity that includes our burning of fossil fuels. Put into crude and oversimplified language, it’s as if we are rolling up the windows of our car on a sunny day. The shortwave heat from the sun enters through our transparent windows to heat the inside of our car, but the longwave heat energy can’t get out. As humans dramatically change the chemistry of our atmosphere, more heat is trapped and climates are adjusting relatively quickly while nature distributes this additional energy.

How is climate change affecting California compared to world trends?

Warming California: Average temperature trends in California roughly match global trends after brief and increasingly dramatic anomalies are smoothed out.

In California and most of the rest of the world, we have warmed by more than 1.5 degrees Fahrenheit (or about a degree Celsius) during the last century or so, although the rates of warming have dramatically increased since 1975. The many impacts include more frequent and dramatic weather anomalies that are challenging our natural and human systems to adjust and/or suffer severe and possible permanent damage. One of the many reasons we have labelled this new age the Anthropocene is that human-driven climate change is impacting every environment, every landscape, and every person, especially in California. Those noted natural cycles are still working in the background, but they seem to be overshadowed by human interference that is forcing this different kind of climate change. There are many other climate changes caused by humans beyond the chemistry of our atmosphere, such as the alteration of surfaces that is impacting Earth’s albedo and water cycles. As an example, robust urban heat islands are being measured in almost every California city. 

(It is important not to confuse our discussion here with the separate problem of ozone depletion high in Earth’s stratosphere, where, thanks to heeding and applying our science and technologies, we have found helpful solutions and have made life-saving progress over the last few decades.) 

Warming by the Decade. As you compare each ten-year period to the average, note that minimum temperatures have changed the most. These warming trends have continued during the last few years.

Is the increase in greenhouse gases in California similar to global trends and how does this affect our climate?

CO2 in California versus Hawaii. Recent measurements of California greenhouse gas concentrations roughly match global trends, though our stations show slightly higher concentrations and more variation since they are closer to local sources. Seasonal variations are caused by increasing plant growth and photosynthesis that temporarily pulls CO2 out of the atmosphere during northern hemisphere springs and summers.
Methane in California versus Hawaii. CH4 is another potent greenhouse gas that has been increasing in our global atmosphere and in California air. More recent measurements at California stations are roughly similar to global trends, except concentrations are a little higher and more erratic here, likely due to our local sources and the more polluted air circulating in our more northerly latitudes.

Industries and other human activities emit more greenhouse gases around our urban areas, and so there are minor short-term spikes and dips that reflect human schedules and patterns around those areas. This is why we measure from remote stations, such as at the top of Hawaii’s volcanoes, far removed from those local sources and anomalies. But most greenhouse gases are quickly mixed and transported around the world and that is why the more recent measurements around California roughly match those made at more remote stations. This is also why we could shut off all emissions of greenhouse gases from California and see little immediate change when we measure their concentrations in the atmosphere. Even if we stopped emitting greenhouse gases everywhere in the world, their levels would only begin to slowly decline and it would take many decades before they returned to anything near their preindustrial revolution levels. After all, photosynthesis and our oceans can only gradually absorb the excess CO2. When you compare the GHG graphs to the earlier temperature graphs, you can see why the science points to the increasing global concentrations of greenhouse gases as driving forces responsible for most of California’s climate change today.

Comparing Three GHGs. Though California has just started reliably measuring these potent GHGs, we notice similarities to global trends. The seasonal variations are also noticeable and so are the slightly higher concentrations and variations here compared to the entire globe. Source: Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018.
Monitoring GHGs. Different agencies have recently added measuring sites. Variations in the measurements are influenced by local geographic factors that include proximity to sea breezes, blocking mountain ranges, pollution sources, and frequency of inversions that might trap pollutants. 

Are other pollutants causing climate change?

Yes, there are dozens of air pollutants that impact our health and some are contributing to climate change. For instance, some air pollutants that cause millions of respiratory illnesses and premature deaths are also reflecting solar radiation back into space before it can heat Earth’s surfaces, which may result in some cooling effects. These are examples of negative feedback mechanisms that can slow warming. It is ironic that necessary and successful efforts to clean up these particular air pollutants around our urban areas are making millions of people healthier and saving lives, but negating the pollutants’ sunlight-reflecting effects that could have slowed global warming a bit.     

Black Carbon Emission Sources. As we have been phasing out dirty diesel and other traditional culprits, some are surprised to find that air pollution sources are not always concentrated in densely populated urban areas. Some of these sources include lawn mowers, watercraft, off-road vehicles, and fireplaces.

Black carbon is a different example. Some types of black soot and other dark particles that are expelled from diesel engines and other human sources are capable of absorbing direct solar radiation and then reradiating it to heat our atmosphere. These darker particles are especially efficient absorbers of sunlight when they settle on snow and ice surfaces, decreasing albedo, causing them to heat and melt faster. This is another reason why our snow packs and ice fields are, on average, melting faster each year and our few remaining glaciers are retreating. Likewise, smoke and ash drifting from larger and more frequent wildfires in our state has also settled on snow and ice surfaces, accelerating their melting. These are examples of the synergy of positive feedback mechanisms that can speed warming. And the data show they are dominating the climate change balance sheet.

Clearing the Soot. Slowing warming, increasing public health, and saving lives are among the advantages of cleaning up deadly black carbon pollution in California.

The good news is that California has drastically cut black carbon emissions that once settled in the homes and lodged into the lungs of people who lived near or downwind of the state’s major transportation corridors and ports. And, unlike greenhouse gases such as CO2, these pollutants usually settle out of the atmosphere within days.

How are California’s Precipitation Patterns Changing?

Previous stories on our web site addressed the wild annual swings in precipitation that are common in California. Most southern California stations exhibit a slight decrease in average precipitation when these extremes are smoothed during the last century or so, but statewide trends beyond the extreme years are not as notable as the increasing temperature trends.

Precipitation Trends. Astonishing variabilities in annual precipitation appear to be increasing, but with less noticeable changes in the running mean.

Scientists recognize that rising temperatures are lifting snow levels as storms produce less snow and more rain events. Higher temperatures are not only forcing earlier spring melts and runoffs, but they are increasing evapotranspiration rates. This decreases the total water available for runoff and further dehydrates ecosystems dependent on water supplies, especially into later summer months. This is another reason why water-starved plant communities have been burning hotter and more frequently as the fire seasons have expanded and become more severe.

Less Snow, More Rain. These 33 Sierra Nevada and northern California watersheds are the sources of much of the state’s water supplies. They show dramatic trends toward higher snow levels with less snowfall and more rain events during the last century.
Measuring Snow-water Content. The snow-water content in the state’s snowpack is measured each year to anticipate the spring and summer runoff that will dictate how we operate our water projects and distribute water. It is highly variable. Here, you can see the record low at about 5% in 2015 during the worst drought in state history. Source: Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018.

How Do These Changes Affect Our State’s Hydrology and Water Supplies?

California’s hydrologic environments are evolving with the changing climate. As less water is stored in snow packs, peak discharge in mountain streams and rivers is higher and occurs earlier, with more water flowing during and directly following storms. Gradual releases from watersheds that once nurtured ecosystems are being replaced with alternating severe floods and droughts. This is challenging the Department of Water and Power and other water agencies in their efforts to balance flood control, water storage and distribution, ecosystem management, and power generation.  

Decreasing Runoff. The Sacramento River Watershed is being strained by erratic weather patterns, decreasing snow packs, earlier runoff, and increasing rates of evapotranspiration.
Earlier Runoff Peaks. Although each year has been radically different, every major watershed in the state has experienced decreased average runoff during the last century. But, as shown here with the Sacramento River system, peak runoff is higher, and with shorter lag times, it occurs earlier in the season.

Is this why our droughts and floods seem to be getting more frequent and severe?

Viewing this data, it is no surprise that dramatic extremes from severe drought to flooding have cost California lives and many billions of dollars during single years of the last decade. Within the last ten years, the state’s worst drought in history ended with record flooding from relentless atmospheric rivers that nearly destroyed water project infrastructures, including Oroville Dam’s spillways.  

More Frequent and Severe Droughts. The Palmer Drought Severity Index is just one way scientists are measuring increasing drought frequencies in the Golden State. Record droughts, decreasing snow packs, increasing temperatures, and low soil moisture have conspired to dehydrate between periods of flooding.     

How are Our Ecosystems Responding?

Biologists, biogeographers, and other scientists are recording and researching how nearly every California plant community is in a process of accelerated succession, responding to these changes. In general, plant communities and their flora and fauna are migrating north and to higher elevations where possible. Semi-arid regions are turning more arid, grasslands are replacing chaparral and oak woodlands, chaparral and woodlands are replacing marginal pine forests, and drier pine species are invading some higher elevation conifer forests where average tree height is decreasing.

Changing Plant Communities. Drier oaks are replacing pines in the north while oaks yield to even drier grasslands in the south. Source: Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018.
Tree Mortality Problem. Unreliable precipitation patterns, increasing temperatures, decreasing soil moisture, and severe bark beetle infestations are among the change agents threatening California forests.
Tree Mortality. This informative map shows tree mortality from 2010-2016, which includes the great drought. The map was completed as a GIS project by Reza Mandalzadeh in Professor Jing Liu’s class.

Are These Changes Causing More Devastating Fire Seasons?

Fire ecology is complicated, but the climate change examined here is clearly encouraging the increasing severity and frequency of our fire seasons. Some non scientists outside California have blamed the state’s forest management, but most of the recent largest and most devastating fires have ignited and burned through grassland, coastal sage scrub, chaparral, and oak woodland plant communities. Some others burned through pine and other forest communities that were carefully managed since they were adjacent to vulnerable developments. Others started and burned through forests that are managed by the Federal Government. All of these ecosystems and landscapes have one thing in common: they are adjusting to climate change and other human impacts that include the introduction of invasive nonnative species.

Unpredictable Fire Seasons. Shifting and stubborn weather patterns dictate the severity of every fire season. Generally, cooler, wetter years support fewer and smaller fires compared to hot, windy, drought years. By September 2020, a record more than 3.5 million acres had already burned. Source: Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018.
A Trend toward Larger Fires. This trend didn’t stop in 2017. As an example, the Mendocino Complex Fire in July 2018 burned through four counties until it became, by far, the largest on record. The 2020 fires would break these records before September.

, seasonIs climate change altering California landscapes in other ways?

Yes. One example is how our few remaining high country glaciers have been dramatically receding in the Sierra Nevada. Once again, this is a common trend around the world and the data previously examined here explains why. As high country slopes are increasingly exposed, these gradually disappearing glaciers and ice fields will no longer supply precious late summer meltwater to riparian ecosystems at lower elevations, further exacerbating the warming and drought problems.

Retreating Glaciers. Most of the few glaciers remaining in California’s high country have been dramatically shrinking over more than a century. The ice masses can still grow during anomalously colder, wetter years.
Extensive Study Area. Glaciers studied were scattered along a roughly 200km (150mi) stretch of slopes just below Sierra Nevada’s highest ridgelines.
Disappearing Glaciers. Pictures tell the stories about how total ablation has been outpacing total accumulation in Sierra Nevada glaciers that lost their dynamic equilibrium many decades ago.

Additionally, sea levels have already risen up to 7 inches along parts of our coast as global ice melts and as sea water expands when it warms. This results in increasing frequency of coastal flooding events and the inundation of landscapes farther inland during storms and high tides. The rate of sea level rise is also increasing, but these rates vary by location. For instance, the far north coast around Crescent City experiences little total change as mountain-building tectonic activity has simultaneously been lifting that local coastline above the ocean surface. 

Using Water Resources Wisely. The Los Angeles Department of Water and Power is among the larger California water agencies that struggle to gather and distribute water and energy to its customers in a state with increasingly more unpredictable and unreliable water years. These demonstration waterscapes in downtown are designed to encourage use of natives and other Mediterranean and more xeric species. The purpose is to save precious water and the enormous amount of energy that is required to pump it.

Accelerated groundwater pumping to alleviate water shortages during droughts has particularly impacted California valleys dominated by agriculture. As water table drawdowns have been measured in meters per year, surface subsidence up to several meters has been measured over many decades in places such as the San Joaquin Valley. In some coastal plains, such as the Salinas Valley, saltwater intrusion has contaminated aquifers several miles inland. Diversions of fresh water from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, combined with other human activities, especially during drought years, continue to threaten water supplies, ecosystems, and landscapes as saltwater encroaches. Water insecurities resulting from less reliable rainy seasons and runoff years have exacerbated these problems.

Where in the state is climate change least and most noticeable?

As is the case globally, some California microclimates are changing faster than others, while a few may notice very little warming. Data suggests that warming in particular and climate change in general is less severe on the north coast and relatively greater as we move inland and toward the south. Decreasing average mountain snow packs are examples.

Warming by Region. Northern California (especially the coast) has measured less dramatic climate change compared to other regions in the state. The average rate of temperature increase/century has nearly doubled statewide since 1975, compared to this longer record.
More Uncomfortable Summer Days? Average trends show that Californians are requiring fewer resources to stay warm, while increasing their efforts to stay cool. But the need for additional air conditioning compared to past decades is especially noticeable around coastal regions.

Is it possible that these climate change trends will end or even reverse?

This is an experiment that we have never run on such a grand scale, perhaps the greatest scientific experiment that humans have ever conducted on Earth, and so no person can predict the exact results in California. But the wealth of scientific studies confirm that the changes considered here will continue to accelerate as long as we continue adding GHGs to our atmosphere faster than nature can cycle them out. As an example, the COVID-19 pandemic at least temporarily slowed our production of all air pollution from transportation and industrial sources. The Golden State’s air quality improved and our production of GHGs slowed, but we continued to produce GHGs faster than nature could absorb them back into the oceans and terrestrial ecosystems and landscapes. No person knows if this will result in any noticeable slowing of climate change compared to what we would have otherwise experienced, but it certainly won’t stop it.           

What is the most impactful change that will make the greatest positive difference?

The common sense solutions to these problems are much easier and less controversial than we have been led to believe. First, use the energy we have as efficiently as possible. In the old-fashioned spirit of waste not, want not, we must require our engines and machines to do the maximum work while using the least energy possible. This goes much further than saving our natural resources and improving our air quality: it will save everyone a lot of money in the long run. This includes the simplest smart decisions such as buying cars and other vehicles that fulfill our needs while demanding the best mileage, and building the healthiest living and working spaces that waste the least energy.

An Air Conditioned Future? Californians are necessarily developing more efficient, low-cost methods to stay cool during more severe heat waves that would otherwise break our budgets and overload our power infrastructures.

Encouraging proper insulation, passive solar designs, and air flow that celebrate the microclimates where we build are other examples of investing in the short term to save in the long term, while improving our health. The COVID-19 pandemic brought our savvy architects back into the forefront, those who have pushed us to create living and working environments that are positioned and opened up to allow natural light and the fresh air flow that we know creates healthier, more productive indoor spaces. It is unfortunate that some Californians were misled into emulating the costly, closed-up built spaces common to more hostile climates such as Chicago and New York, only to look out the window to healthier and more comfortable California air that could flow in for free. There is no excuse for repeating these mistakes, particularly within our mildest-climates-in-the-world coastal regions.   

And, thanks to vastly improved designs with increasing efficiency, solar panels on roofs exposed to sunlight have become some of the least expensive sources of electricity and most rewarding long-term investments for homes and businesses. Today’s new solar panels often pay for themselves within ten years so they can deliver more than 20 more years of free power without generating all that air pollution. Building any new structure exposed to sunlight without solar panels in today’s sunny California helps define penny wise and pound foolish. 

Major CO2 Emitters. Each of these sectors play major roles in California lives and economies. By making them cleaner and more efficient, everyone wins as we recuperate our health, strengthen our economy, improve the quality of our living and working environments, and save a lot of money in the long run.

These practical, common sense decisions signal our intelligence, as opposed to the insanity of sticking with outdated methods and technologies that trash the planet and our state and drain our bank accounts. It is nonsensical that some in our popular culture and media are still debating whether to pick these easiest, no-brainer fruits from the tree while they choose to remain stuck in vicious cycles of waste and destruction that result from short-term thinking. Just as with any attempts to improve our health and financial stability and well-being, we know that these practical long-term investments are not only the keys to our security, but they will help us blaze our path toward a brighter future. 

Cleaning our Air and Growing our Economy. As California invested in more efficient technologies, we simultaneously cut pollution and enjoyed some of the fastest economic growth of any state. Our efforts prove that environmental stewardship can not only accompany robust economic and job growth, but they can blaze a positive synergy for the future.

The good news is that California continues to lead the country and the world away from those archaic debates of 50 years ago and into a more promising twenty first century. Let’s hope that other states and nations will follow as the scientific evidence proves how Californians’ long-term future also depends on their short-term decisions. Since we have just scratched the surface here, we must now debate how we can use our ingenuity to further push that envelope of innovations that will allow us to reach toward a cleaner, healthier, and more efficient Golden State. We know that nature won’t be waiting around while we are debating.

More Efficient and Resilient. Cities and communities across the Golden State are sharing methods to help their residents and businesses become healthier and more efficient.

Numerous California cities have built more secure futures by cutting waste and becoming more efficient. As an example, the organization known as Sustainable Works in Santa Monica has helped many thousands of individuals, businesses, students, and institutions save small and large fortunes as they also save natural resources and create healthier, more productive living and working environments. This success explains why Sustainable Works continues growing beyond any borders. Community organizations such as Climate Action Santa Monica have also successfully worked to educate and empower the public about these problems and their win-win solutions. These are examples, originating from within just one city, of the countless similar organizations and efforts in every region spreading positive ripples across the state. Meanwhile, government agencies are sharing best practices about how to become more efficient while we all save bundles of future taxpayer dollars.

Working Toward Efficiency. In the U.S. state with, by far, the largest population and most powerful economy, each of our 40 million people generate fewer CO2 emissions, on average, compared to the average American. You can see that we still have plenty of work to do.

There are also a host of independent cutting-edge communities in California that have made short-term investments to implement more sustainable and efficient energy practices, resulting in enormous long-term savings that drastically decrease residents’ carbon footprints. They include several Mutual Housing Communities around Sacramento at http://www.mutualhousing.com/
Additionally, though Muir Commons in Davis was the first new-construction cohousing development in the U.S., these communities have since appeared in nearly every California city: http://www.muircommons.org/
Though these communities that push the envelope and take us back to the basics may not be for everyone, they offer plenty of lessons about how we can more efficiently generate and use our energy resources.

We hope you have benefited from this California climate change question and answer session that wraps up our series of three weather and climate stories. We again thank all the people who gathered the wide range of research that was assembled in the publication of Indicators of Climate Change in California, published by the state’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in May, 2018. We used many of their graphics here to answer questions since theirs represents one of the most comprehensive and credible publications that managed to assemble some of the most diverse research covering climate change in California to date. If you would like to see more details, go directly to the publication at: https://oehha.ca.gov/media/downloads/climate-change/report/2018caindicatorsreportmay2018.pdf

You might also consult the California Climate Change Center, a clearinghouse for climate change research in the state.

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COVID-19 Attacks California https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/godzilla-19-attacks-california/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=godzilla-19-attacks-california Tue, 07 Apr 2020 21:29:44 +0000 https://www.rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/?p=1853 An ominous, somewhat Orwellian electronic road sign loomed over us: “Stay calm, Stay informed, Stay safe.” For the two decades since this project began, we’ve analyzed scores of earthquakes,...

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An ominous, somewhat Orwellian electronic road sign loomed over us: “Stay calm, Stay informed, Stay safe.” For the two decades since this project began, we’ve analyzed scores of earthquakes, floods, fires, droughts, civil unrest, riots, and recessions that have left trails of death and destruction as they reshaped the Golden State. Even for us natives who have spent many more decades living and researching in California, we have never experienced anything like this.

Following the Guidelines
This NPS sign reminds hikers how to stay healthy and to keep safe social distances, especially if they want their trails to remain open.

Since this story is only a quick snapshot in early April, 2020, we don’t know how much pain and suffering and destruction COVID-19 virus will finally leave in its wake. But as people (especially the most vulnerable, such as the already ill and elderly) are sick and dying, medical services are being strained beyond their capacities. Mental health experts are urging all of us to reevaluate and differentiate between what we perceive as inconveniences and real problems in our lives.

Losing Beach Access
Large weekend crowds resulted in widespread beach closures that spread to more remote stretches all the way up the relatively quiet Mendocino coast until most California beaches were closed or inaccessible.

Our reactions to this pandemic are transforming the state’s people, cultures, landscapes, and economies faster than most could have imagined. How can anyone attempt to describe or predict the final extent of COVID-19 impacts on our state at this stage in the battle? We have an obligation to share at least a few relevant observations here as we continue to consider and research new ways to rediscover the Golden State. You are welcome to fill in the many gaps as we also invite you to explore with us a few iconic landscapes at this pivotal time in California history. All images (unless otherwise noted) were captured from the Malibu hills and coast to Santa Monica and Venice Beach during the first days of the lockdown. They were all taken from legally-accessible sites during early stages of the pandemic response, while adhering to all health guidelines. Some sites have since closed. We are all reminded that public officials are struggling to do their jobs, so be responsible and stay safe.

Empty Parking Lots
As in most of California, nonessential Malibu businesses were closed, leaving empty parking lots during normally busy weekend afternoons, inconveniencing some of the state’s wealthiest residents.

It is already clear that our state and our Rediscovering the Golden State project, at least for 2020, has evolved into two narratives: before and after COVID-19. The new Coronavirus and our responses to it are rewriting the human geography that we have researched and shared in our publication and our web page.  

No Picnics, No Play
This is a normally crowded and bustling meeting place on weekends, where Malibu residents can take their friends, families, and kids to enjoy some food and outdoor recreation in a safe, planned environment.

An eerie, foreboding quiet has been cast over our city streets and many other private and public spaces, featuring odd AWOL-like human landscapes. It reminds us of those science fiction movies with images of hunkered-down neighborhoods waiting for the terrifying monster to stomp through. This tempts the geographer in us to rename the virus Godzilla-19. Will the monster destroy us or will we destroy ourselves and our communities preparing for and fighting it? After this pandemic spreads so much inconvenience, pain, and suffering, can a new and improved California emerge? If you are reading this after the crisis, you may already have formulated some answers.

Venice is Closed
You will normally find throngs of visitors crowding the Venice Boardwalk on a weekend like this, but everyone was urged to go home on this afternoon and it was eventually closed.

As of the start of April, how have 40 million people in the most culturally diverse place on the planet reacted to our state shut down? At first, within otherwise seemingly abandoned cities and suburbs during daylight hours, some families could be seen walking and playing together in parks, beaches, and the other open public spaces that have become so precious to Californians, especially as we were blocked out of those meticulously planned private landscapes that were designed to encourage us to spend our dollars. More recently, officials have been closing even our shared public outdoor spaces to keep the virus from spreading, as some became overcrowded with visitors trying to escape their limited confines.

No Beach Access
The only public access to this more remote beach in Malibu is from free parking on PCH. Perhaps this is why so many visitors – after traveling so long – were ignoring the signs during the first day of closure.

Rural Californians working in primary industries may have, at first, had to make the fewest adjustments to adhere to the temporary COVID-19 protocols. You might not have even noticed pandemic symptoms in some of the state’s more rural and remote communities where annual incomes and the cost of living are relatively low. The big exceptions include communities dependent on tourism and ecotourism, where their streets and hospitality businesses are left empty and severely damaged.

Not on Main Street
A vacated Main Street shocks visitors to Santa Monica who are accustom to traffic jams and thriving businesses. This scene was repeated in main streets throughout the state during the pandemic.

Common sense must rule as geographical and spatial epidemiologists monitor Godzilla’s destruction and work to educate us about the details. Will the monster have its way with California cities as it did NYC? Will the pandemic quickly infect the densest urban neighborhoods and gradually trickle into rural areas? Will it hit certain ethnic groups harder than others? We already know that the elderly are most vulnerable. Will the per capita infection and illness rates be higher in working class or wealthy communities, homeless or prison populations? Will changing seasons slow or accelerate the spread? Did our quick, proactive response slow (flatten) California’s per capita infections and deaths curves compared to many other states and nations, or was there something else about our geography that made us unique? There are too many questions and unknown variables in these uncharted waters during this uncertain spring, but the final maps promise to reveal fascinating mysteries and hidden tragedies.

AWOL on the Promenade
Decades ago, the Santa Monica Promenade became the national model of how to bring businesses and excitement back to downtown districts. During the virus shutdown, it was deserted, as were similar promenades around the state.

We already declare many losers in economic geography, particularly in a state where such activities as tourism, transportation, manufacturing, international trade, entertainment, and services (each worth hundreds of billions of dollars) recently fueled our economic engines to soar over $3 billion, more than 14% of U.S. GDP. Sober fiscal realities become clear when you check the economic specifics in Chapter 10 of our publication: our state’s economy is being crippled by this devastating Godzilla. And the catastrophe is spreading faster than at any time in history: note the millions of able workers applying for unemployment.  

Vacated Business Districts
Even the most historic, exclusive, and iconic business districts (such as Montana Ave.) were forced to close, leaving unimaginable trails of economic misery across the Golden State.

Past mistakes haunt us…again. While California was smart to boost its rainy day funds during the last decade of growth that built the 5th largest economy in the world, the Federal Government debt was allowed to balloon in reckless fashion. The Godzilla-19 crisis promises to quickly deplete our once impressive state surplus, while the nation’s debt will skyrocket to historic and perhaps unmanageable or even unimaginable levels. We will all have enormous debt burdens that could last for generations and it will show in every future decision we make, from building infrastructure, to supporting education, and from funding our parks, to supplying vital social services. It is too late to encourage the discipline that could have built rewarding household and government rainy day funds. The rainy day has arrived.

Legendary California is Squashed
What, no yoga, surfing, or ice cream? Storied California businesses, activities, lifestyles, and cultures have been thwarted, such as these shuttered businesses on this weekend day in Venice.

Other industries, each worth hundreds of billions of dollars annually, are playing key roles in keeping us alive, sometimes literally. The global epicenter of biotechnology industries is in the Golden State, particularly from southern Orange County through San Diego County. Will treatments and cures for the COVID-19 scourge be discovered here? The high technology capital of the world remains in the Silicon Valley and has spread beyond the Bay Area, spilled in to the Central Valley, and leaped into coastal Southern California. These technologies have become crucial in supporting the schooling and working and social networking from home that has kept our economy from crashing, while guarding millions from getting sick. As just one example, it is no surprise that Zoom Video Communications is headquartered in San Jose. Other communications technologies and delivery companies have allowed millions of Californians to purchase and receive vital products without risky human contact. So it is true that if California sneezes, the nation will get sicker. All eyes necessarily turn to our overburdened health care industry.

Empty, Eerie Streetscapes
It’s adjacent to a popular college, community pool, Olympic track and stadium, but shelter in place converted this day’s scene into unprecedented emptiness.

The crash in service industries that require human contact and the inaccessibility of many technologies to low-income Californians promises to increase inequities, poverty rates, and the already record gap between the rich and poor. Those ubiquitous delivery trucks that have converged on higher income neighborhoods are serving far fewer working class households where there are people who have lost their tips and weekly paychecks and now can barely afford their necessities, much less pay for deliveries. Smaller, struggling businesses are folding or being gobbled up by those with the capital to ride out this unprecedented storm.

Forgotten Victims
When law enforcement officials sweep Venice Beach, ordering people to “go home”, where do these less fortunate homeless people go? What happens when COVID-19 sweeps into homeless encampments? On the same day, a sign at a local Santa Monica hotel just more than a mile away read, “Overnight Guest Parking: $52.50.” That’s not a typo.

This pandemic offers too many opportunities to reexamine ourselves, our priorities, our neighborhoods, our landscapes, and how we evaluate the issues and solve the problems that confront us, the very topics we have been addressing in this project that has evolved throughout its more than 20 years. We are forced to consider potentially devastating impacts on the most vulnerable populations that include those stuck in poverty without adequate health insurance, more than 100,000 homeless people, and more than 100,000 prisoners in the state. We are startled to see how our living environments improve without the congestion, traffic gridlock, and air pollution that plagued many of our cities when the economy was growing full steam ahead. The pain and suffering brought by COVID-19 offers renewed opportunities to apply geography and “to place California’s human and physical resources, issues, problems, and landscapes in a geographic perspective”, as stated in the last chapter of our publication.

At Least the Traffic Monster is Slain
This stretch of freeway where I 10 intersects the 405 had some of the worst traffic gridlock in California until COVID-19 changed everything, allowing commuters such breathtaking freedom.

When faced with such a crisis, we are forced to refocus on geographic realities that we have too often ignored. In the long term, unfortunate synergies are growing from local to global scales, such as the effects of climate change, pollution, habitat destruction, the introduction of aggressive non-native invasive species, and our accelerated encroachment into wild spaces. These trends that define the Anthropocene also conspire to produce even more potent future Godzillas than the one we are fighting. And is everyone recognizing the uncanny parallels in our debates about how to handle this crises and more long-term environmental challenges such as climate change? Overreact by investing now and we might save ourselves in the long term at some short-term expense; underreact and we might allow an uncontrolled experiment with unknown consequences to run amok and destroy us. Should we ignore the scientific evidence that commands us to flatten the curve, we risk unleashing an unimaginable wrecking ball into our communities. This Godzilla has reminded us that nature is in charge no matter how we might try to ignore her. And so, as of today, most of our overreactions to this pandemic have turned out to be the proper reactions.

Congestion Cure
Regular commuters can’t believe that this normally gridlocked section of the I 5 between Los Angeles and Orange County could be moving, much less nearly empty at this time of day, as shelter in place has its positive effects.     

In a state and a world with economies that are fueled by trade and travel and other human interaction, there are many logistical reasons why we can’t erect the perfect barriers such as travel restrictions and quarantines that could quickly end future threats from the outside. But we can work to eliminate islands of inequities that exist in our health care systems, because these may be the petri dishes that nurture the next monster that erupts to produce the next pandemic. So much of our health and survival depends on our ability to – with clearer lenses – rediscover our surrounding environments and reimagine our communities as we view into this new world. Such success will require that we rely on the evidence and science-based decision making that makes us smarter and stronger so that we may better understand these complicated problems and muster the social cohesion required to solve them.    

Economic Ripples
An open beach house for lease along the Venice Boardwalk wasn’t shut down yet, making one wonder how the state’s inflated real estate market will respond to the COVID-19 economic shock.

This is more than our chance to become better prepared to fight an even deadlier biological Godzilla-20 or 21 that epidemiologists warn could attack us in the future. We might use this opportunity to reestablish healthier families and cultures, as the importance of household and neighborhood communication replaces alienation and isolation. Cooperation and community could replace selfish cynicism, tribalism, and hyper-competition for the few remaining scraps. Through it all, our appreciation and love for geography can be rekindled as we become more prepared for future disasters such as that catastrophic earthquake that is in our future. The least imaginative leaders have already forced us to confront moral and philosophical questions about the importance of money and wealth versus life and health, as if they could be neatly separated for conflict. This might be an opportunity to recognize how our economy AND public health are powerfully connected: sick workers operate sick economies; healthy Californians are more productive Californians.

Inconvenience or Heartbreak?
Most of us only see inconvenience when such iconic attractions are closed, but the immediate loss of service jobs and impacts on nearby businesses have been devastating.

While keeping my social distance in the checkout lines, I have done some rough surveys. Why were so many people hoarding products that are easily restocked by reliable supply chains, even during a crisis like this? After all, farmers must continue to bring their food to markets as it becomes edible. The California Grocers Association reassures us and demonstrates how the supply chain is intact and reliable, so what is fueling this irrational and wasteful panic buying? The other day, I asked the person in front of me why he had filled his cart with so many plastic bottles of water. He blamed it on orders from his wife, but like every other bottled water hoarder I’ve asked, his only answer was that “everyone else was doing it.” Yet anyone knowledgeable about our state’s water delivery systems knows that our inexpensive tap water is usually as good or better quality than plastic bottled water that costs as much as gasoline, except for very few neighborhoods and isolated communities suffering from locally contaminated water (especially groundwater) supplies. Still, companies pushing their bottled water have made fortunes off convincing millions of clueless Californians to waste their hard-earned money to buy something that is already offered to them almost for free, with or without a home filter. Meanwhile, the unnecessary plastic bottle waste piles up in our landfills and on our beaches while consumers drain their wallets to pay for something they don’t need. It’s another Tragedy of the Commons drama that can be eased with some knowledge of geography.

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Unintended Consequences
The parking area to this NPS trail was closed to the public due to the COVID-19 crises, but local residents were able to access the trail that remained open to them and their horses.

And spatial epidemiologists can tell you that riding your bike or walking with your family on the beach or a mountain trail is perfectly safe as long as you keep your safe social distance. Especially during these times, everyone can benefit from decreasing stress hormones, blood pressure, and heart rates in open and natural environments that can strengthen our natural immune systems and quell our nature deficit disorders. Enjoy neighborhood walks, find a garden, but keep your safe social distance. Still, there is pressure to close all of our calming public spaces during this crisis at the expense of our freedom to stay physically and mentally fit. Conflicts and debates quickly erupt as medical experts tell us there is no threat to anyone who observes proper social distancing in open air environments, while these activities often result in enormous improvements to our physical and mental well-being. What do you think is healthier personal and social behavior?…remaining cooped up behind four walls, or walking along an open trail in fresh air under an open sky with or without your family, while maintaining safe social distances?…disconnected inaction or engaged participation? A little bit more knowledge about diseases and our need to connect to our surrounding environments would help us make better choices.

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Shifting the Problem
This accessibility drama has played out across California: After parking areas to nature trails are closed, visitors clog the streets of wealthy residents, who then convince authorities to close street access and trails until all visitors are blocked out, except locals who might ignore the signs.

Geography helps us understand why particular public parks and trails were forced to close after selfies and social media over-advertised them as escapes from the Godzilla drama. Parts of Marin County to Pt. Reyes, Newport and Laguna Beach, and other popular local, state, and national parks and nature trails adjacent to our largest urban areas were overrun and then first to close when the hordes were crammed dangerously closer than the social distance required. This heaps greater burdens on the fewer public spaces remaining open until they are forced to close under a cascading negative ripple effect. Unintended consequences take over. One- or half-day journeys to the open, expansive, calming places have been thwarted by closures sometimes encouraged by wealthy locals who are fortunate to live adjacent to the resources, but who might fear the crowds more than the virus. Tragedy of the Commons revisited.

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Wealth Meets Nature During a Pandemic
Wealthier residents in this prized canyon neighborhood a few miles farther inland are lucky to have access to abundant open parkland that has been closed to outsiders; they can also afford to have their own workout equipment delivered when their gyms are closed by the pandemic.

We are challenged to imagine more sustainable ways of reacting and how we might eventually reopen our state and our lives, especially as this crisis carries on for months, particularly when the curve is finally falling. When the threat eases, more effort can be made to warn potential visitors about overcrowded open spaces so they can be avoided. Officials might coordinate with local volunteers to direct, disperse, and educate visitors along one-way loop trails and other outdoor experiences that encourage social distancing so that all parks and beaches might reopen. Alternating parking days permitting only odd or even license plates or birth years could cut crowds at other public areas. There are many other examples as simple as this one smart sign that read, “Our public parks are open. Please maintain safe social distance.”, until even that park was later closed. If you think these ideas are unworkable, here’s a chance to propose your own solutions instead of sitting back, watching, and complaining.

COVID-19 Closes the Beach
You may not find the virus on a closing Zuma Beach, but you also won’t find sheltered-in-place residents from the valley who once escaped to this renowned coast looking for peace, rest, and recreation. This image was shot from what was a legal view site.

A wave of volunteers, cooperation, and social cohesion will be required to avoid dangerous congregating in our cherished open spaces so that we can conquer this monster. Our path toward freedom and sanity will require a bold vision and strategy, a labor-intensive effort that we haven’t seen in many decades. It will necessitate unprecedented coordination between local, state, and federal agencies and officials. But we cannot let this attack from nature further disconnect us from our physical geography, from what is really vital to our health and survival, the natural world that nurtures us. Without these herculean efforts, we may become the latest victims living through our five stages of grief over our many losses within our manufactured Tragedy of the Commons in a sort of Godzilla Meets the Twilight Zone landscape and culture.

Nobody on the Road, Nobody on the Beach
Don Henley never knew he could be writing about Malibu during the COVID-19 pandemic, but here is world-famous (and normally crowded) Malibu Surfrider Beach during spring break, 2020.

Visiting any store, business, neighborhood, or public place during this crisis, you can’t help wishing that the late screenwriter, Rod Serling, could have lived to witness real people behaving as the characters in the stories he once imagined for us, the stories that could make us look in the mirror and love what we could be or hate what we have become.

No COVID-19 on this Trail
This NPS trail remained open during the first days of the Coronavirus pandemic, leading us into the natural world that we crave, while keeping our safe social distances.

You can see that there are many new and urgent reasons why we will be sharing more of our own stories about the Golden State to inform and to explore with you while we are all fighting together and finally recovering from this Godzilla-19 monster. It is a perfect opportunity to imagine how we can open a new door and live up to our potential to become the state we want to be. And as Rod Serling once declared, you unlock this door with the key of imagination. Stay tuned.

Finding our Source
Keeping our open spaces accessible allows us to connect to the natural systems and cycles that rule our lives and our world, such as this wild landscape of coastal sage and chaparral within minutes of millions of urban dwellers.

This snapshot story ends with the late Maya Angelou’s words that seem more relevant than ever: “We delight in the beauty of the butterfly, but rarely admit the changes it has gone through to achieve that beauty.”

Fire, Flood, and Pandemic
The drought and fire that ravaged this canyon two years ago was followed by floods that deposited the lose sediment that now soaks up water from this influent stream, reminding us that to everything, there is a season; as this pandemic will also pass, such wild lands are waiting to nurture and offer perspective to the millions of Californians living less than an hour away.
Quarantine: Problem or Inconvenience?
This mural showed up outside one of many California restaurants that are struggling or tanking after public dining was banned by the COVID-19 pandemic response.

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Got Salmon? Why We Should Save the Fish https://rediscoveringthegoldenstate.com/got-salmon-why-we-should-save-the-fish/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=got-salmon-why-we-should-save-the-fish Fri, 22 Mar 2019 17:31:36 +0000 http://box5916.temp.domains/~rediscs8/?p=187 One of our October 26, 2017 APCG field trips included a visit to the Feather River Fish Hatchery, one of the roughly twenty California Department of Fish and Wildlife...

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One of our October 26, 2017 APCG field trips included a visit to the Feather River Fish Hatchery, one of the roughly twenty California Department of Fish and Wildlife hatcheries. As we toured the facility, we were lucky to witness their staff extracting eggs and milt from Chinook salmon that had returned to the Feather River watershed after 3-4 years living in the Pacific Ocean. This part of the fall run of Chinook salmon captured at the hatchery.

By the time they swim all the way up the river, they are already turning dark and decaying as they are ready to spawn and running out of energy after an extended period of fasting. Human obstructions on the river that include the nearby Oroville Dam block them from making it farther upstream, so they are helped to spawn here. After the salmon enter the trap, CO2 puts them to sleep. Once out of the trap, males and females are sorted and their egg sacks and milt are extracted. Approximately 7/10 eggs will survive here, compared to only about 1/10 in the wild ,where the female must drop her eggs in choice stream locations and the scent or hormone must attract the male to fertilize them in a tempest of environmental hazards and uncertainties. In contrast here, small fish are nurtured within their yolk sacs within the controlled environment of the hatchery.

Encouraging Successful Spawning. Salmon eggs are harvested and nurtured at the Feather River Hatchery.

These programs became necessary when salmon populations were decimated by a familiar list of human impacts that include water pollution, climate change, introduced non-natives, overfishing of dwindling species, and one of the greatest threats along this river: habitat destruction especially caused by dams. Members of this new generation of maturing salmon are eventually released back into the river, where they will swim out to the Pacific Ocean to live for 3-4 years until many will again return right back up the very stream courses where they were hatched. (Note that this 3-4 year period sets delays in the effects of annual changes such as drought and flood. For instance, the low numbers expected for 2017 and 2018 were in response to the record drought that had ravaged the state a few years earlier.)       

Leaping for Future Generations of Salmon. Salmon navigating and splashing up the stairs of the Feather River Fish Hatchery.

It would be difficult to overestimate the importance of these specific efforts to save our state’s valuable waterways and fishing resources. Within our updated 4th edition, we survey (in Chapter 6) California’s water resources, the ecosystems that they shape, and the great water projects that have transformed many of these landscapes. We also (in Chapter 9) survey the state’s commercial fishing industry that totals hundreds of millions of dollars each year. We show how fishing organizations and their publications have used surveys by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to underscore fishing’s importance. Using mapping and population software, they have estimated that about 2,800,000 anglers fishing in California spend about $2.4 billion supporting more than 35,000 jobs with a total economic impact of $4.6 billion in the state each year. This admittedly expanded multiplier effect considers manufacturers, boat builders, sales of fishing gear, and lodging and food services. The data prove that nurturing our waterways and fisheries is more than good environmental stewardship; it is essential to the long-term health of our economy and the health and quality of life for millions of Californians.                         

Engineered Spawning. Decades of experiences have informed scientists and engineers to design the most successful infrastructures that might corral salmon ready to spawn. These hatcheries are responsible for increasing the numbers of salmon returning to many California waterways.

By March 2018, efforts to restore winter-run salmon were made public in the article with the link that follows. Though Battle Creek is north of the Feather River and Coleman Fish Hatchery is a national fish hatchery operated by the U.S. Department of Fish and Wildlife, the issues are hauntingly similar as various agencies and organizations must cooperate to solve these problems.        

Working in the Incubator Room.  About three months of nurturing is required before release into the rearing ponds.
Welcome to the Incubator Room. Up to 10,000 eggs per tray help to increase spawning success rates by 70-80% at the Feather River Fish Hatchery.
Barriers with Consequences.  Just above the hatchery, we see just one example of the barriers built across the state that prevent fish from swimming and spawning upstream.  
Interpreting Centuries of Natural History around the Hatchery.
Salmon Play Key Roles in California Ecosystems.
Amazing Cycles that Live On. Chinook Salmon and Steelhead Trout navigate thousands of miles over years in loops that return them to where their lives began.  
 

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